Both tail lights on the Brick are acting badly. One is a brake light on the right side that sets the dash warning light off although the brake light works, mostly. I believe it's a problem with the metal contact strip but can't remember how I figured it out. But the second problem, on the left side is tied to the headlights, and that's problematic because the cops in this area don't play games. It's the inner left rear tailight, closest to the license plate. The metal contact strip on that assembly is apparantly not touching the bulb housing. I tried slipping a piece of electric wire between the metal strip and the bulb housing to make the connection but blew the fuse. Any solutions, short of replacing the entire light assembly? That rear light assembly is $330 new from IPD and $88 from FPC. I replaced one before with a cheap China made job which is probably part of the problem.

Any solutions appreciated.

Thanks

Cuddy

I would check on Ebay or Tasca for the OEM assembly. Don't even think about the Estonia made assemblies on Ebay. I have them on our 244 and have been pulled over by the cops at least 20 times in the past 6 years since I have had them in.

Possibly try lightly cleaning the contacts with a wire brush and CRC electronic cleaner (you can find it cheap at Walmart). I have never tried it myself, but maybe (if you are careful) applying a small amount of solder to the contact points that touch the bulb sockets.

I agree with your methods and observations on quality.

I would like to add that I like using a pencil eraser or a typewriter ink eraser. It is the most abrasive thing I allow myself to use on the copper traces of the circuit boards. That stuff is thin.

I spring the sockets little fingers out towards the board and add some Trucklite NYK Corrosion Preventive Compound that I get at my local auto electric shop or LPS1 if I misplace it among various tool boxes, buckets or bags.

I have also found that on the wire connector, the pinchers are lousy. I hate that funky thing. I have use the trick of appling a thin coat of solder on the boards. You got to be careful with the heat on plastic, that's my only objection as a fix. But if your up against a wall go for it.

Electronic shops sell peel & stick on copper trace that I've had in the back of my mind to try for a while. With patience it might be a repair.

Regards

Phil

Don't fully twist the Socket in, that will let the socket contact a 'good' section of the circuit board. I have had issues with the brakelights too, Even after I hardwired the whole assembly. I bought new bulbs with the Chrome finish instead of the brass. They seemed to have done the trick.
until you get the 'running ' light issues fixed, take out the same bulb on the other side of teh car. The cops will think the volvo only has the one bulb per side.

Replace the circuit board 20 -30 bucks each?

Wagons don't use the printed circuit, rather wires are run directly to the bulbs. Any way for you to run wires?
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.