|
|
|
My 1990 740 GL, appears to have not had enough coolant to handle the record low temps here in WA, and following my drive into work, have had the springs blow out of my block? I notices a watery/fuel mix leaking? My fear is that this is unrepairable? I just need to know what my next step is. I was able to get the vehicle home and there it sits. It is going to remain cold for awhile and I am unsure how to empty what coolant is left and how to add new....Any guidance would really help.....
Thank you,
Laure C.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Laurie, I don't know if this is helpful after all this time, and I know that your baby may still be in the driveway, and you have other things to do, and your eyes are probably way better than mine, and I don't know what the weather is like where you are... and while it may seem like a digression, you might consider:
(1) cleaning the bejeebers out of the engine area (which raises the issue of removing the excess of whatever you use to clean it with)
(2) then using very bright lights to help you see detail. (At least do this.)
I guess you already have lots of different evidence, but I get the impression that when you LOOK you see a shifting image, or more/different clues?
Turn 40 years old: get eyeglasses for reading
Turn 50 years old: bright lighting always at hand
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be fixit2002
on
Fri Dec 11 03:14 CST 2009 [ RELATED]
|
|
If it's just a freeze plug then have someone reinstall a new one and refill the antifreeze. Don't worry about draining the remaining antifreeze. There's not much left anyway. After refilling have someone check it with a hydrometer to determin what temp you're good for. There's no telling what you're getting in these new "ready to use" containers of antifreeze.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Not sure what the springs are but the engine does have frost plugs which are circular metal "bowls" set into sides of the block. If there is only water they may get pushed outwards in a hard freeze, that is the design so the block does not crack. They can be replaced. You should not see oil or fuel coming out, only coolant. Exactly where did you see the watery fuel emerging.
You would need to defrost the car until the ice melts, perhaps a portable heater underhood or take it inside somewhere. Drain out some water and add at least a gallon of undiluted anti freeze. There is a drain at rear of block but I think it easier to just undo a lower hose and drain some.
How cold did it get?
--
David Hunter
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi,
Thank you for answering my query and I apologize for clearly not knowing what I am talking about...It has since become worse. After reviewing possible issues, I was able to determine that the freezer plugs remain in tact. I added oil and new antifreeze, and thought all was fine. Drove a day without issue and could see that I had an oil leak but not that was overwhelming. I went the next day to run an errand and was going up a pretty big hill and started smelling oil burning, and saw smoke coming out from the hood. When I looked inside, it appeared as though oil was spewing out of the block, right in the area of head gasket, and now that I believe this may be the case, a blown head gasket, can I do this myself? I am very capable and have already become somewhat familiar with the make up of my car.
Thank you for any other possible conclusions, here are other issues pertaining to this recent event.
- heater fan rumbling, takes long to heat car
- engine temperature gauge not working
Please help!
Kindly,
Laure
|
|
-
|
|
|
Yes, you may have a blown head gasket if the engine severely overheated. Before tearing it all apart you would want to confirm. Normal diagnosis of a blown head gasket includes a compression test and perhaps a coolant system pressure test, also look for oil in water and/or water in oil.
Where exactly around the outline of the head gasket does it leak?
--
David Hunter
|
|
-
|
|
|
Laurie,
I strongly suggest that you find a boyfriend who likes to work on Volvo's; or buy a another good running 740 and use your car for parts.
The cost for a properly done head gasket repair in parts is close to $300.
Good luck!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi,
Thank you so much for your reply. I am struggling without my car and apologize for my late reply. I will try to narrow down what is going on as of now. I cannot keep oil in the car now. The very last few times I tried, oil leaks out but it is hard to tell where. I noticed that it could be around the valve cover, and my goal is to remove the cover & gasket, hoping to see that it looks worn and replace that, but I will be honest, my instinct suggests this is not an easy fix, I have other issues what are concerning me. Lack of heat, never reaches the norm following a 25 minute drive (when I was driving), coolant/water consistant, not finding that I have to add. The time I did over heat, was going up that hill and it appeared to be coming from around the valve cover not from the radiator...I am just really needing the time to clean up around the block to see if I can tell where the oil is coming from...and hopefully, not around the heads.
If you can think of anything else, I will forever appreciate it.
All my best and happy holidays,
|
|
-
|
|
|
Laurie,
Replacing the valve cover gasket is a cheap easy job, assuming we are talking about the same thing. The valve cover is the flat pan on top of the engine that says VOLVO on it, and is held on by about 10 acorn nuts.
Replacing the head gasket is probably over your head unless you get someone more knowledgeable to help you. However, oil leaking from a head gasket is not a very common failure mode for a head gasket in my experience. Possible yes, but not probable.
In your first post you said the temp gauge didn't work. Now you say it is coming up slowly and not getting to normal. Did it spontaneously fix itself? Did you in fact overheat the car, or did you just assume overheating because you saw a bunch of smoke from under the hood? That smoke may have been caused by the oil leak rather than by overheating. Was the temp gauge working when you overheated it, and if so what did it say?
Not heating up quickly probably means the thermostat is bad. That is a cheap easy fix.
I might have missed it, but I don't think I have seen any mention of cleaning up the flame trap and the rest of the crankcase ventilation system. If it doesn't work properly, it will cause oil leaks that otherwise might not leak. Instructions for correcting crankcase ventilation are in the 700/900 FAQ section.
Charley
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Charley,
Thank you so much for you reply and as I am just now back to work, have a computer to reply. I was on vacation and managed to do the following and am so pleased that you pinpointed something that I reviewed, the thermostat. I started off by removing the valve cover initially, immediate reaction - valves look bad, engine really must have got hot. My concern was that, I could be spending all this time replacing the gasket, and then add more oil, only to find I am still having the oil leak. My focus went to the thermostat, and as soon as I disconnected the hose, it all but fell out, half of the unit still in the hose, quite worn. So, ran to Napa, got the replacement, installed it. I managed to replace the valve cover gasket, however - I fear I may need to re-do that, I was not as careful as I really believe I should have been? While I was doing the gasket, I unplugged the wires from the cap? Now, this is all very new to me, and the wires are the valve wires. Of course, I did not analyze how I pulled them off, and after all was said and done, I thought I could turn her over...Had the gasket, cover and 3 qrts oil in, new thermostat, was excited...Something is wrong for sure...It has to be the wires? It tried to turn over, did a small backfire and then the engine jerked and died. Also, I am truly terrified about another issue, I am missing one of my valve cover bolts....I need to start fresh, correct?
Just a gal trying to fix her car.
Laure
|
|
-
|
|
|
The wires are from distributor to the spark plugs, correct? To maintain the proper firing order these wires must not be mixed up or the engine will behave just as you describe.
Look at distributor from the front. Wires from left-to-right go to plugs in this order: 4-3-1-2. (#1 is the front plug).
Take one of remaining bolts to the parts store, I am sure they can dig a replacement up for you.
I think you have done well so far. Working on a car requires carefull methodical action always thinking ahead of what can happen.
--
David Hunter
|
|
-
|
|
|
David,
I was lucky on this last post, switched 2 & 3, and she started right up that evening. I have worked on her the last few weekends, and not sure if I added that I replaced the thermostat? I was so stoked thinking I am attacking this with the hopes that each repair would bring me to closer to a remedy...After all that, steady stream of oil continues to escape. I pulled off the oil keep/plastic under garment (ya know what I mean) and added more oil, started her up, and still could not tell. Removed timing belt cover and it appears as though the downpour is coming from the bottom crank shaft? I believe that is what it is called. So, with that said - I am stuck now. This is a job I am not prepared for, due to the equipment need. It really ruined my weekend to know I have to stop, as much as I need to get this car running, I have no funds to have repaired, paying for labor that I know I could handle, I just need to locate someone with all the goods, as I located the replacement seal, at my NAPA.
I truly love the car and know this is most likely a normal old age maintenance issue? However, with the engine so hot that initial time(s), I fear I may find that that the block is cracked? I should be more optimistic but am struggling to think it is worth all this effort right now.
I have only suggested that it's coming from that location, and have yet to remove all the belts, so she sits.
I appreciate so much your response again, it helps more than you know.
All my best,
Laure
|
|
-
|
|
|
The timing belts goes around 4 "pulleys". At the top is the camshaft pulley, next down is simply the tensioner with no teeth, next is the intermediate shaft pulley, at the bottom is the crankshaft pulley. Each of these pulleys (except the tensioner) has a replaceable circular rubber seal where their shafts enter the engine, the seals keep oil in. When they wear out oil escapes. May be that ones of the 3 seals was ready to go and had a catastrophic failure due to the overheat, can't say for sure. I think the next step is to positively identify the source of the oil. Fixing it would require some work. You can see a picture of the timing belt in the FAQ section under B230F Timing belt.
--
David Hunter
|
|
-
|
|
|
Can you pull the spark plugs and see if there is oil or water on them? Further, can you do a compression test (see the FAQ)? Or, can you get one done WHERE THE CAR SITS? Or at least very close, and I mean VERY, to home?
--
Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Don't drive or run it until you get a good diagnosis!
From this description of the problem, it sounds like a blown head gasket or, possibly, a warped head. Fixing either is just about the same work, and while involved, not beyond the reach of someone willing to study up on it (see the 700/900 FAQ) and proceed with thought and caution.
The difference between fixing a blown head gasket and a warped head comes at the machine shop. In either case, when you remove the head, you will take it to a machine shop and have the head checked for warpage, measured for height, then resurfaced, at a minimum. If they find no significant warpage, and the height is sufficient to allow resurfacing, then all is okay. There might be warpage that can be machined out during resurfacing if there is enough height left in the head for it, or - worst case - you might need to find a replacement head for your car.
You are going to need to buy a full head gasket replacement gasket set, usually about $100 to $125. I have had very good results with the Elring sets. Someone told me that Elring was the OEM for Volvo on these items. Very high quality. You will also have to measure the head bolts you take out and make sure that they haven't stretched. They are not expensive (as long as you don't buy from Volvo dealer), and just replacing them all with a new set of Elring bolts is cheap insurance.
In either case the work is the same, and while the head is off is a good time to get the valves, seals, and hushers done, and check and set the valve clearances. Probably throw in a timing belt, if yours hasn't been done lately, too. Carefully check over ALL of your cooling system hoses, and replace if in doubt. Throw in a new thermostat too. Check the FAQ about testing your temp gauge sensor too. It may not be working, or it may be working and you have a serious loss of coolant problem.
The key is to learn everything you can before you start, then think it over carefully. If you have another car, or can borrow or rent one, then go over the procedure carefully in your head, while looking at the FAQ, the car, etc. Like surgeons do before they do a new procedure. Believe me it pays big results.
--
Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Forgive me for this, but your name is Laure, which I assume is feminine, right? If so, please don't take offense if I caution you that it is going to take some strength to take the head bolts off of your car. Especially so if they are the factory original ones - they have had a long time to set.
When you put the head bolts back on, you will need to torque to a moderate torque, have forgotten how much, then you will need to turn the bolts exactly 90 deg further (the technique is called "torque-to-yield"). Not as hard as removing the old bolts, but still can have you literally standing on the engine/fender/whatever and pulling with both hands and all of your might - even for some medium sized guys.
--
Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi there,
I am so sorry for the delay and with the holidays and pressure of being down to one car, I am overwhelmed. Yes, I am indeed female and appreciate so much, all of your emails. My baby is sitting in my driveway, and I fear the worst. I drove a few more times, I had no choice and managed to get to work, but within the time I arrived to the time I had to drive home, major leak. I even tried an oil treatment, hoping to plug up or help the situation for the time being. No such luck.
If anything it is worse. I cannot tell exactly where all the oil is coming from. I want to say by the valve cover, because the oil filter seems to be in the line of the leak, it is covered. I no longer obtain normal heating, the air is borderline cool and never peaks at a high temp. I find that the temperature gauge comes up very, very gradual. I am not going through an abnormal amount of coolant/water and as I can tell the engine is running hot, never blow from the radiator, just from the valve cover gasket area.
My plan at this time is to remove the valve cover, perhaps recognize a possible gasket breakdown and hope this does the trick but my mind and gut tells me, I am faced with a major issue with the head gasket and repair...no money for that job.
Please take your time to reply, every comment or suggestion helps so much, I truly appreciate it.
All my best and wishes for a lovely holiday season.
|
|
|
|
|
