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inner tierod replacement 200 1990

posted by  popdaddy on  Sat Dec 5 07:54 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Sep 26 19:26 CST 2014
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howdy all you brickters... I have to do something that I never had to do on my 90/240 that's change an inner tierod joint and need some help. I understand there are 2 kinds a ZF and if I'm not mistaken A Cam. I need to know if anyone has A play by play instruction post or can email me the instructions with any warning or tricks I could use to make this A flawless job I plan to remove my old and take to the dealer to determine with one.thanks again guys and gals for any help.








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    inner tierod replacement 200 1990

    posted by  Herr Steuben on  Mon Dec 7 00:39 CST 2009
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    last visit: Mon Sep 16 07:02 CST 2013
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    I recently did the boots, inner tie rods and tie rod ends on my 92 240. I identified my rack as a CAM rack before I took it all apart, and ordered the hardware from FCP. When I got it all apart, it turned out that the car had an older CAM rack with female ends on the inner tie rods(1272947), and also required different boots(270881, 270882). I would make sure that you have identified your rack correctly.

    Are you going to replace the boots...outer ends? I would, while you are at it. You can remove outer ends with a hammer if you are going to replace them.

    All in all, not a bad job.

    HS
    --
    92 245, 1965 122 Wagon, past:95 850 Turbo, 92 245, 88 245, 82 245 Turbo, 71 164e








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    inner tierod replacement 200 1990

    posted by  rhaire on  Sun Dec 6 12:03 CST 2009
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    Note your steering wheel position dead straight wheels (see last few sentences below to see why). Remove the belly pan. Break the lock nut on the tie rod end loose. Remove the 19 mm top nut on the steering arm/ tie rod end ball joint. Pop the steering link/tie rod end joint with a ball joint type tool (not expensive, the JCWhitney generic vise type is perfect). Cut the cable tie on the in board side of the boot and withdraw the boot enough to get a pipe wrench on the inboard tie rod joint (the fat part at the rack) and crank it to unscrew it. Fit the new rod with the tie rod end and count turns to match what you needed to remove the end from the rod. Screw in the tie rod to the rack and tighten. Fit the tie rod end joint and apply a bottle jack to the bottom of the ball joint, jack it to keep pressure on the joint so you can tighten the top nut to 46 foot-pounds (from memory, please check). Re-fit the boot and cable tie to the rack. Leave the tie rod end lock nut loose and drive the car to see where the wheel is. Adjust the rod with a 10 mm open wrench on the flat spot to pull the wheel in or turn it our until the wheel is back where it should be. Doing one wheel at a time allows you to get a close alignment. This can be done easily with the car on the ground. Finally, tighten lock nut and replace belly pan. Takes about an hour if you have the right parts and nothing is seized up.








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      inner tierod replacement 200 1990

      posted by  vadimk11 on  Sun Dec 6 19:24 CST 2009
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      last visit: Mon Oct 24 22:04 CST 2011
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      When unscrewing the inner tie rod end from the rack, counterhold the rack with a 17mm wrench (from memory, may be different), or with another pipe wrench. If you hold the rack as far out as you can, you should not damage the surface that comes in contact with the seal. Depending on the rack you may only counterhold it on one side, and thus may need a helper to unscrew the opposite tie rod end. If you don't counterhold, you may find yourself replacing the rack as well.

      Depending on the rack, you may need to get creative with a chisel or a dremel tool with a cutting wheel before you unscrew the ends from the rack. Look and see if there are slots on the rack and if some metal on the tie rod ends was punched into those slots. Should be obvious if you have that type rack. Then, when you put it together, use blue locktite (or punch the new tie rod ends, but I did not want to pound on the rack, so I did not do it that way).







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