Hi Spencer,

Guess I wasn't great enough to spell out where to find Tasca. I figured your mentioning being located in RI and your mechanic in NH, you might know of them.

Transmission cooler lines

Anyhow, you said in your previous thread, $88 wasn't a bad price.

Part Number: 1306839 List Price Core Price Your Price
PIPE $60.44 $0.00 $44.83

Part Number: 1306840 List Price Core Price Your Price
PIPE $60.44 $0.00 $44.83

All the great advice you're getting to do-it-yourself is cool, but I got the idea from your previous comments in where is my leak??? you wouldn't really have the time for it. Tasca is in Rhode Island.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A Stranger is just a friend you haven't met yet.

For pre-bent lines I think the dealers are the only source (or a supplier who buys from the dealers!). The other choice as others have said is to fabricate replacement lines yourself.

I just went to a local pick and pull and looked under a few 240's till i found one that was in one piece. the line that came on my car when i bought it was patched with rubber tubing, but it was done poorly and it leaked. I like the suggested ideas of fabricating your own lines, the copper would probably last longer than a pull apart line, and either the p&p or self fab would be cheaper than buying it from the dealer.

This was done in a hurry, will expand on it later if you want to go this route.

I made metal lines that go over to the transmission cooler for my 86 model. Did not want to run a rubber line that far, the chance of something going wrong was too high for my taste.

You need two metal pre-made brake lines, a tubing bender, new fittings (SAE on my 86) and a flare tool. Flare tool was from AutoZone, tubing bender Harbor Freight or Auto zone (same one different color), and the fittings and lines were from a local auto store.

I don't have all the sizes and fitting types right now, but found it all down at a good local auto store. Not something a chain store will have most likely. At least if they do, they do not have a clue where to find it. Take a line in and show them what you need to do a speed shop might be a good place to start. I will try to find the stuff left over and see if there are part numbers tomorrow.

Consider just slicing out the bad section and using a new flare fitting and a flare adapter to connect in the new section. I will also try to take a picture of how I tied into the old lines. Used a threaded flare fitting to tie the new and old lines together.

You should be able to buy the tools for less than $20, fittings for less than $10, and a couple of lines for less than $15.

You will need to take your time and practice on the flare tool. You need a good straight cut across the tubing, I used a Dremmel and cut off wheel. The tubing bender used the center slot and worked like a charm.

Good Luck,

Paul

Is the leak near the end of the line that is straight? If so why not cut the line off further away from the end where you can use a piece of hose to connect it to a piece of straight 5/16" tubing of the correct length?

You will still need to use a tubing cutter to cut the new section to the correct length. Once you have that use the fitting from the old line (slipped on from the cut end) on the new line and then install the section of hose with a 5/16" internal diameter with clamps.

Randy

if you are creative and willing to think out of the box these lines can easily be fabricated by easily available copper tubing of the appropriate diameter. there is next to no pressure in these lines and they end in simple flares.

all you need do is save the threaded fittings on either end of the lines and make them your self for small money at the local plumbing supply and a flaring tool.

the upside of using copper is you will not have to worry about rust or road salt again.