Hello All,

I've never owned a 1800, but I am contemplating purchasing one - proabably restored, because my mechanical abilities are limited.

Of all the years of the production of this model, which would you as a group familiar with this model would say was the "best year" in terms of reliability and trouble-free use? I know, these cars are now all over 30 years old, so "trouble-free" is a relative term.

I welcome everyone's opinion and advice.

Hugh

60's 1800 with SU (not Strombergs) and after market or bosch transistorized ignition is bullet proof.
--
Patrick, '68 220, '92 Eurovan , '53 PD4104 (highway coach conversion).

Must offer my 2 cents. It's been a long time ago but bought a '73 ES new and drove it just weeks under 10 years and 150K miles. Loved it. Pulled the clock and added an amp guage. Loved the dash layout. Early on lost the British Smiths speedo. Took a long time for the dealer to get one. After that, regularly pulled the replacement and lubed critical bearings. Orig blue-green metallic paint went after about 7 yrs. Had a friend repaint to original. Never wrecked. Had the OD which I think at about 3 yrs had to pull tranny for a $6 oil seal on main shaft. A water pump proved an expensive replacement. Had to get from a dealer due to the special fan clutch it had. Had the dealer installed underdash Mark IV AC. It worked OK but noisy. Miss the car but economics and practicality of growing family made me realize it was time to sell. The fuel injection had its issues. In Southern CO, rust wasn't a factor at all. The ES had great factory undercoating. Overall, it was an awesome, stable and dependable car. Looking back, I love the look of the ES. Would go for a coupe with carbs next time around. It was our first Volvo. Went through 3 American sedans after it, only one measured up. Back to Volvos in '99 with a used 240 and in '01 a 740 now with 550K on'm. Still got'm. Wouldn't go back. "Volvo For Life" is a reality. My 2 cents.

Hi Hugh

Although I do envy the fuel injection and rear discs of the later models, I find the '66 and earlier particularly appealing. The early interiors and thick, spear-like side trim are just beautiful.

Jim
--
'58 PV444
'66 1800S
'67 122S Estate
'70 142S
'72 142E
'78 242GT
All are pretty and run except the '78 The irony!
http://www.olddeadvolvos.com

Just personal opinion, but I think the 70 and 71 cars were the best. They got all the mechanical upgrades - basically switching over from 122 to 140 sharing, but still had the slightly more bespoke interior. Which I guess boils down to the door handles - the later years had 140 door handles on plain panels, the 70/71 had the molded swoop like the earlier cars. Plus they had neater looking wheels, vs. the plain steel wheels shared with the 140 on the 72-on cars.

And they got the full 130 hp B20E, not the slightly neutered for emissions B20F. And the coupes didn't have a bulky complicated folding rear seat (designed for the ES, but used in the coupe too). And although they had retracting seatbelts (nice) the pods stopped the seats from reclining all the way back (I guess that's fairly unimportant, really).

But really, there aren't any stinkers in the whole production line. Some people like the earliest Jensen built cars. I happen to like the D-Jet injection and the 4-wheel discs on the E cars.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)

John,

Thank you for your reply. If I was interested in a 1800 that came equipped with 4 wheel disc brakes and a/c would that limit my search to 1970 and later models?

Also, I would be interested in purchasing a 1800 with a manual. I assume these cars only came equipped with 4 speed transmissions. Is there any aftermarket supplier that provides 5 speed transmissions that just "bolt-in"?

Also, I assume these cars all came with standard points and condensers with regard to the ingition system. Are there any companies that supply electronic ignition, which again, just "bolts-in"? John, thank you for any information you can supply.

Hugh

Four wheel disk brakes started with the '70 1800E.

Standard transmission was a 4-speed with electric overdrive (functionally a 5th gear activated by a switch instead of the shift lever), and a 3-speed automatic was optional. Adapters are available to install two different true 5-speed transmissions, but there's little reason to do so in a street-driven car.

There's a simple breakerless conversion for the distributor, and also a fully electronic replacement distributor with selectable advance curves.

That being said, I wouldn't shy away from an earlier model. The front disk / rear drum brakes work just fine, and were exceptionally good in their day. The dual carburetors are easily maintained after being rebuilt once time, while several vital fuel injection parts are no longer available and/or extremely expensive. Although the '70-'71 models were the most powerful of the line, the '72-'73s offer less performance than '66-'69 (and possible less than even the very early models).

I would look for cars in the best condition I could find, regardless of year, and then let price and personal taste guide you. There are four different interiors and numerous exterior styling changes over the years that all have their adherents.

Phil,

Thanks. If I'm not mistaken, I think I've read some wonderful articles you have written that appeared in the VCOA's magazine, Rolling.

Hugh

Some of the cosmetic differences in the model years is the circular chrome gauges disappear with the 1969 models and the side chrome gets straightened out after the 1966 model year. Also the fuel filler lid was moved from on top by the trunk to the side quarter panel around 1970.

When looking for an 1800 - a main consideration must be rust - extremely expensive to repair. Almost everything else can be replaced, but corrosion is an expensive fix.

Oliver

1966 1800S

From a turn key reliability standpoint, I'd say a late ('70-73) 1800E or ES(wagon) with a manual transmission. *BUT* make sure the injection system has been properly gone through...

If you don't mind getting your hands a little dirty and learning about SU Carbs, a '64-69 would be my next choice, and for me, more reliable, as there's not much you can't fix road side if you are familiar with the basics.

The early early Jensen built cars are my favorite, just for their uniqueness. But, they are more prone to rust, have some parts that are unique and hard to find, less stout suspension...

If you see something advertised that you're interested in, post here to get folks' opinions... prices and conditions are really all over the place.. one can spend $7k for a car that's really not very good, or one can spend $2k for a really good car...

A properly restored car in excellent drivable condition.. figure on $5-10k...

--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Matt,

Thank you for your reply, especially with regard to what to pay for a good car. I assume, if you are interested in obtaining a 1800 with 4 wheel disc brakes and a/c you would be limited in looking at cars built from 1970 forward?


I would be interested in purchasing an 1800 with a manual transmission. I assume the original cars all came with 4 speeds. Are there any aftermarket suppliers who supply 5 speed transmissions that "bolt in"?

Thanks,


Hugh

Were it me... I'd give up on the A/C... that's me though. For one, the original system rarely works... Them NDV (back to my british car days... non draft ventilator) windows work great. The AC is in the way under the hood and under the dash. It was generally a dealer installed option.

The manual transmission cars are 4 speeds, but almost always (never seen one without) the electric overdrive, so yea.. 5 speed. just not in the traditional sense. Furthermore, the later fuel injected cars are going to have the (in my opinion) later type overdrive which in my experience is pretty bullet proof.

Agreed on the '70-71... if you're wanting disc brakes (again.. the rear drums of the earlier cars are fine.. they just not quite as user friendly)...

Bottom line though... you will be best to educate yourself in some basic maintenance procedures... as far as 30-40 year old cars go, old Volvos are amongst the best as daily drivers, but they are not without their issues...

rust.

--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Matt,

Again, thank you for taking the time to respond to my query.

Hugh

The 1970 and later 1800Es and ESs came with rear disc brakes, a nice feature indeed. The later dashboards are a bit more refined as well, not the "jukebox" style gauges that some admirers of the marque find so endearing. I believe, but am not positive, that the 70 through '73s were available with the infamous BW35 automatic. These were a performance killer on such a small engine, especially for the times. I don't know for sure if I've seen an automatic in a 1800E, but I certainly have in the ES (wagon) versions. Standard transmissiom for these cars was the 4 speed with the overdrive unit, a fairly trouble free and plentiful unit that was used extensively on many sports cars of the era. I've seen prices range from $2,000.00 up to $19,000.00 asking, and haven't personally seen a transaction for over $14,000.00 USD. Take someone along who knows theses cars well when you go to buy one. They are prone to rust (especially the 1800ES), and expensive to fix because of their all-welded construction.

Benski,

Thank you for the info.

Hugh

ANY OF THE "E" YEARS THAT STILL HAVE THE FUEL INJECTED INTACT! I LOVE THEM ALL!1971 IN 102BLUE IS MY FAV.......

Rust was mentioned in an earlier post, and the ONE crucial place that kills these 1800's is the Rocker Panels which are the "Frame Rails" in the unibody set-up.The British designed body traps water, and the worst is at the place where this frame turns up at the fender well. This is a primary structural point and a high dollar repair if rusted thru. the later E's were better.

The 70+ models also had the big gearbox that was same as the 164, bigger gears as I recall. I had a '71 and after the IPD 2-barrel Weber downdraft conversion, it would wail. A/C? If you convert to a rotary compressor like all the Jap cars use, it'll give no trouble and freeze you( a necessity here in Florida).These are very dependable,servicable, comfortable, and these days rare to see on the road.

68 is the year for me
classic chrome Dash parts
and dual circuit brakes
b18 with dependable su's
easy to find parts
Hard to find one in original condition though

Interesting, since I own a 68 1800S & just bought an orig. owner 72 ES. I like the E&ES style interior better & the rear discs are a bonus. They are more complicated though due to the separation of the circuits in the frt. system. The d-jet is expensive to get parts for but is amenable to updating if you don't worry to much about originality[which I don't] The biggest deal is RUST so get the best you can afford body wise. Many have been "bondoed" so beware! both of mine are cases in point. The ES is in my shop now repairing the the poor quality bodywork & rust in the hatch area. It still needs small rust repair in area behind the frt. wheels. The coupe is also in need of extensive dent repair. That being said the coupe has served as a relatively reliable daily driver for 3 yrs.[yes even in eastern Wa. winters!] The carbs can be somewhat tempermental in hot weather & overheating has also been a problem.[ I've learned a lot about cooling systems engineering] The driving experience however is great offsetting the problems & maintenance issues. Get one & DRIVE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mike M.
72 145E[now for sale], 68 1800S,& 72 1800ES

I've owned two different 1800E's, and I like the way my PV drives a whole lot more. I think it's the lighter weight.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)