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Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

posted by  ZJZ on  Mon Nov 23 10:07 CST 2009
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last visit: Mon Oct 13 14:29 CST 2014
[RELATED]

Looking at the problems on my new to me '88 244. The right front bolt on the driver's side strut mount bushing/plate (as viewed from the front of the car) is missing in action. Anyone have a feel for whether I work a new bolt up there without complete disassembly and removal of the struts, or do I have new mount plates (and likely other pieces) in my near future?

Thanks,
Zach
1988 244 w/156k mi & 1990 245 w/279k mi








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    Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

    posted by  rhaire on  Tue Nov 24 03:12 CST 2009
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    last visit: Mon Aug 4 10:16 CST 2014
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    BTDT. The studs are the splined press in bolts and they occasionally loosen and drop out when the struts are fitted back into the tower, etc. I have successfully fed studs back in place by taping them to a coat hanger but it depends a little on which stud you can reach and how much fiddling time you want to spend. It might be easier to undo the sway bar link, brake line bracket and tie rod end to drop the strut. You do not need spring compressors.








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      Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

      posted by  someone claiming to be ZJZ on  Tue Nov 24 05:51 CST 2009 [RELATED]

      That's what I like to hear, on both counts. I'm sure the dealership will feel that the bolt is worth at least $10.








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        Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

        uid 27's pic
        posted by  Art Benstein on  Tue Nov 24 06:13 CST 2009
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        last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014
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        I'm sure the dealership will feel that the bolt is worth at least $10.

        My parts fiche identifies it as a "screw" for which quantity 3 is listed, but no part number. The dealership will sell you a new strut mount, and then you would need a spring compressor.

        I remember one of mine coming loose, and knocking it back out twice trying to push the strut assembly up into the tower alone before tracking down my daughter for five minutes help starting a nut.

        The "screw" is M8x20, but using an ordinary hex cap screw is going to need some kind of bubble gum, epoxy, or tack brazes/welds, best I can figure. Maybe a flanged bolt with a tinnerman retaining it from the top, if they make tinnermans in M8 size.
        --
        Art Benstein near Baltimore

        Never interrupt your opponent while he is making a mistake (Napoleon Bonaparte)








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          Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

          posted by  someone claiming to be ZJZ on  Tue Nov 24 07:03 CST 2009 [RELATED]

          Thanks for the info Art - will greatly simplify the efforts at assembly. Also thanks for giving a name to the 'fastener clip thingy' - a tinnerman. I'd never known. Do you think hex or cap M8 bolt + lock washer plus larger washer through the holes, along with the appropriately flanged nut on top would work?

          I'm trying to recall the surface on the underside of the strut mount plate, and am not sure how much real estate there is to deal with.








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            Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

            posted by  someone claiming to be ZJZ on  Tue Nov 24 07:09 CST 2009 [RELATED]

            Of course, they don't have the specialty lock bolts in metric... perhaps something akin to this - http://www.mcmaster.com/#98093a543/=4n8l7o








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              Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

              uid 27's pic
              posted by  Art Benstein on  Tue Nov 24 08:44 CST 2009
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              last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014
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              Actually, I should have said "serrated flange" because what I was thinking of is a bolt with a grabby underside. Like 92820A425 but not so expensive.

              Also, be careful not to select a bolt that is too long and then let the hood slam shut. No BTDT here, but someone else asked the question once, and I think chewing gum was an answer there, too. :)

              Maybe a common carriage bolt would press in there - 5/16.
              --
              Art Benstein near Baltimore

              Dad: Someone who hopes his sons will turn out to be just like him, and who is afraid his daughters will meet someone who did.







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                Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

                posted by  ZJZ on  Mon Nov 30 05:37 CST 2009
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                last visit: Mon Oct 13 14:29 CST 2014
                [RELATED]

                I managed to wiggle an M8/20 flange head bolt up into place after about ten minutes of finger contortion and dropped bolt into the cup area of the mount plate. Once I got it into place, I started the nyloc nut, which worked well until the bolt started spinning. I may put a few drops of superglue on the flange head if I can get the dropper in there without popping out the bolt.

                Oh, and from what I can tell, 20mm is shorter than the normal length for the bolt - I'd approximate more along the lines of 25-30mm.

                In other news, one of the four bolts that holds the heat shield to the exhaust manifold is rounding out, the other heat shield just upstream of the downpipe-to-cat flange is loose and rattling, the rear muffler mounting pegs were completely rusted off and it was held in place with bailing wire, and the exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket needs to be replaced.

                Cleaned and oxgarded the wire-grounds underneath the hood (cam cover, inlet manifold, behind front LH headlight and to the left of ignition coil). Easy to do and didn't require any additional sacrifice of skin from my digits.

                PO noted that there is a leak in the power steering system. Added PS fluid to the reservoir, only to drive it once up and down the street and find the reservoir empty. Either was very empty in the system itself or leaked out in short order. As the garage floor is clean, I'm opting for the former at this point.

                Also partially fixed the driver's seat over the weekend - one of the two bolts on the RH side that mounts the seat-back to the base frame had loosened completely and fallen out. Of course, the seat grid is also in a bit rough shape, the seat base and back foam have seen better days, and the rear lumbar mechanism is shot. Oh, and somehow one of the PO's managed to melt part of the seat heater grid together, thus preventing even a basic seat heat repair. Strangely (or not), the passenger's seat looks like new.

                More as it happens.

                Zach
                Anchorage, Alaska
                1988 244DL w/M47 & 157k mi and 1990 245DL w/AW70, ecodes, two-tone hood, turbo bars & 279k mi








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                  Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

                  uid 27's pic
                  posted by  Art Benstein on  Mon Nov 30 05:56 CST 2009
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                  last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014
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                  I'm amazed, Zach, you were able to get that bolt in without dropping the strut somewhat out of the tower. And, that you would attempt to use a locknut tells me you are quite the optimist.

                  You are right about the length. I admit eyeballing it from shoulder to end in comparison to a 25mm bolt and calling it 20. With a scale, I see it is 22mm to the shoulder that stakes into the mount, and 25mm from the underside of the flange. I can still picture those little dents in someone's hood. I think I would give up on the locknut.

                  The tie rod boots can hold a lot of fluid. I hope they are not.
                  --
                  Art Benstein near Baltimore

                  He often broke into song because he couldn't find the key.








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                    Missing strut mount plate bolt/stud - any way to repair or only replace? 200 1988

                    posted by  ZJZ on  Mon Nov 30 06:13 CST 2009
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                    last visit: Mon Oct 13 14:29 CST 2014
                    [RELATED]

                    Color my fingers lucky or tenacious. I agree on the locknut being very optimistic. In theory, I could put a 90° bend into a spanner and wiggle it in place to hold the hex head of the bolt for tightening... or so my optimism tells me. Whether or not I'm willing to go to the trouble is another thing.

                    Not sure how well the PS pump lasts without fluid, but assuming it's like any other pump, I'd reckon not well. Probably due for both a rack and pump. There aren't any undue sounds from the pump or rack - is a seal repair possible, or is replacement much less of a headache for only marginal greater cost?








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                      Steering Rack Rebuilding 200 1988

                      uid 27's pic
                      posted by  Art Benstein on  Mon Nov 30 06:21 CST 2009
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                      last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014
                      [RELATED]

                      I have not heard of any brickster doing a successful rack rebuild. I'd be interested in seeing this done, but my knowledge of them is limited to a very good experience using a rack rebuilt by Jorgen Automotive.
                      --
                      Art Benstein near Baltimore

                      Every calendar's days are numbered.







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