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Hello,
I'm looking for a little help in finding the tools, and the name of the tools needed to replace my struts ('88 245).
In the Bently, page 720-3 fig.7 & 720-4 fig.9, it shows two of several tools I need to find the common names for. These particular tools are to remove the strut from the strut tower in the engine compartment. One tool holds the strut stationary (5037) while the other is used to remove the strut upper nut (5036).
Both of them look like simple adapters fitted for a socket wrench.
I checked AutoZone here in N.California. They seemed to have the "5036" made for GM in their loaner strut tool set(not sure if it fit, it looked similar), but I can't find "5037" and it might be a little difficult to find.. seeing I don't know the common name for it.
I tried all of my three inch long metric sockets that looked similar in size, no dice...
The other tool that looks useful for the job is a strut gland nut tool also called an adjustable pin-face spanner wrench, IPD sells one for 26 bucks.
In the Bently there is a socket adapter tool "5303" (page 720-5 fig.12) used in
conjunction with the gland nut tool to hold the strut assembly from turning while removing the gland nut. Info on the name of what that tool is called would be great. It looks like that tool (5303) may not be necessary,
would a 4" pipe wrench and a rag work?
Also if someone's aware of a auto part store common to the west coast that they've borrowed all these tools from that would be great.
I appreciate any help anyone can give.
--
'88 245,M47,Virgos 205/50/15,200K+
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nothing new here, but here's what I did.
Took the car to the closest shop and had them loosen the top nut on the strut. Carefully drove home. Before removing the tower I lossened the gland nut with a large pair of channel locks, I do mean large. Without removing the assembly, I levered down with a 2x4 on the control arm and swung the tower out and was able to disassemble with out the special tools.
After reassembly, back to the shop to tighten the top nut
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89 240 Wagon 217K, 94 940 185K
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Before you invest in an offset wrench, try loosening the nut with a 15/16 socket (am assuming you already have one in your toolbox). The pros use sockets with an impact wrench.
Before loosening anything else, put a socket over the nut. To extend the reach of the socket try 1/2" washers between the 1/2" wrench and the socket. Tap the wrench sharply to mimic an impact gun and/or extend the wrench handle with a pipe over it (thus creating a breaker bar).
(This is just to loosen the nut. Don't remove the nut completely until you install the spring compressors.)
It that works then tighten nut last on reassembly. Maybe even place a couple of 1/2" washers under nut so nut is easier to remove with socket next time.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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The tools you need are:
Some sort of *quality* spring compressor.
Pipe wrenches have worked better on gland nuts than pin spanners for me (though I'm in the rust belt).
A Harbor Freight (or similar -- most don't have the right offset) 15/16" offset wrench to loosen/tighten the top nut on the strut.
Look closely at Bentley, and check k-jet.org for the front suspension green book. To get the strut out of the strut tower, there are three small nuts. The big (24mm) nut must *only* be loosened. If you remove it, the spring will basically explode off the strut assembly (if the front end is off the ground). Could be ugly.
It would be best if you had an impact wrench to loosen up the big 24mm nut. An impact wrench is also handy to use with a spring compressor. Electric impacts are indeed up to the task.
Loosen the big nut, remove the 3 smaller nuts, then lower the strut out from under the fender. Compress the spring, remove the big nut, remove the mount and spring and dust boot, remove the gland nut, remove the strut, and then put it all back together in the opposite order. :-)
Good luck!
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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Thanks for the reply Ryan.
Alrighty. I know about compressing the coil. My local auto parts has a hefty spring compressor.
I understand about those three strut assem. tower mounting bolts.
Now the 15/16 offset wrench your talking about is for the 24mm strut top bolt?
The problem I was thinking I was gonna have to deal with is finding a socket to fit into the offset wrench's recess, If the offset wrench is shallow enough the 10mm wrench I have will work. But I'm just being safe in wanting to find out what the socket adapter that holds the top of the strut. But I guess I'll have to rent the tool before I tear that whole thing apart to see how it'll go....
I have a harbor freight four blocks away. I'll have to stop by tomorrow.
I was thinking pipe wrenches were fit to get those gland nuts off,
but I've read a few people on here whimpering about scraping their struts.
Thanks for making sure I don't knock out my teeth with flying coils, Ryan. :-)
--
'88 245,M47,Virgos 205/50/15,200K+
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Glad I can help!
For tightening gland nuts, I just use a big pair of channel-lock pliers. If you're careful, there's little risk of damaging stuff. Get the nut pretty tight, put the car back together again, and when lowering the car back down on the ground, let the tire start to compress the spring, then weave the channel locks in there through the spring and dust boot, grab the gland nut, and just wail on it. You'll "feel" it kinda hit that point where it's tight.
When the car is on the ground you can then use the 15/16" offset to tighten the 24mm nut really tight. I found that an adjustable wrench was best for counter-holding the strut in lieu of a 10mm open end wrench. I wrecked a 10mm open end wrench doing this....
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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Some things I'd like to add to Ryan's excellent post: Mark the current position of your three bolts in the strut tower so that you can reassemble it as it was. Check your tie rod ends for wear while you are doing this job. When it comes time to re-attach the brake line bracket, take a pair of needle nose Vise-Grips and clamp the bracket in place before trying to fit the bolt through it. In addition, slobber some anti-sieze on the threads of your gland nut before reassembly. The next lucky contestant that gets in there to do this job (who knows?, it may be you) will appreciate the gesture. Check the condition of the rubber in the strut mounts while you've got things apart. They should be in pretty darn good shape. If they are obviously worn or obviously torn, get new good ones. Tasca Volvo I believe has ones at a reasonable price. Avoid ones marketed by Scan-Tech. Good luck, and treat those compressed springs with the utmost of care. They are potentially quite hazardous. If you really want to top off all of this work with a nice finish, have your car realigned, especially if you have changed out tie rod ends as well as ball joints and struts.
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Awesome, thank you!
Is an alignment usually done at a tire place or my mechanic?
Thanks for those tips. I was considering replacing tie rods, ball joints and c-arm bushings.
Those rubber strut mounts look good from the top, but if there reasonable I might need to get a pair.
About Scan-tech, I was looking to get some scantech rear overload coils. Nah or yea?
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'88 245,M47,Virgos 205/50/15,200K+
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I used some Scan Tech "heavy duty" rear springs. Had them in two cars so far. Gives a sedan nice booty.
On alignments, I'm not qualified to judge, especially since I've never been asked to "help", but I notice posts every so often recommending you find a shop with Hunter equipment. Most recent post I saw gave this link: http://www.hunter.com/index.cfm as a way to search for a shop, but I haven't found anything but a way for a shop to search for a Hunter.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
The cardiologist's diet: If it tastes good spit it out. - Unknown
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