I have read the FAQs a couple of times, but I had some questions on removel of the nuts.

It says many times not to over-torque them off as not to break the studs. What kind of toruw are we talking about? I never have a good feel for this and often break things that are not so rusted.

How ugly can the studs be and still be successful?

Why not use a nut cracker?

Thanks

When loosening that combination of stud and nut it matters not which thread breaks loose, the nut to stud or the stud to head. Once one of them loosens you have no choice but to back it out with or with out the stud.

Knowing when to back of on the muscle is a matter of judgement and experience, many times things snap because of impatience (I know).
--
David Hunter

whoops, another question.

Received my gaskets today from FCP. There isn't a UT marking on them. Which side goes against the head?

One side of the gasket is all metal, the other side is gasket like material with a metal ridge on the inside.

Thanks again!

Sorry,

Read FAQs again.

Each OEM gasket should be stamped "UT" which means "out"; that side (which is the metal side) faces toward the exhaust manifold and away from the cylinder head.

So, it looks like the metal side goes against the manifold, amd the gasket-like side goes against the head.

A nut cracker will work but will not get to all the nuts.

I assume you are referring to removing the nuts when you ask about torque.
Bottom-line, douse the nuts with PB Blaster or equivalent and let it soak a few days to a week, respray daily or as you see fit. Go ahead & drive the car as the heat expansion will help loosen things.

Over-torquing should not be a problem then, however, if a stud still breaks at this point, it needed replacing anyway.

Thanks. I have actually been spraying it with pb baster for 1.5 weeks. i just went out and broke the nuts/studs free, then speayed it down again.

A question though, backing it out a bit, I was not sure if the nut was going or the stud. Does it matter?

It should not matter: you can always insert the stud back in the head once you separate the nut. Highly recommended: clean up the threads, use Loctite Blue on the stud as it goes into the head, use new Volvo OEM copper alloy stud nuts, and use nickel-based antiseize on the studs when you reassemble the manifold and nuts.
--
See the 700/900 FAQ at the drop-down menu above right.

Thanks, I'll give it some more time with the spray, then see what backs out.

Dear huskerdoo,

May this find you well. If you have a Dremel Moto-tool - or similar hand-held electronic motor with a tool-holder at one end - you can wire-brush the short section of stud thread sticking out of the nut.

To ease the nut's removal, it sometimes helps to back-out slightly, then tighten, then back-out slightly. This has the effect of grinding at the rust, a bit at a time, rather than trying to force the nut to push through all of the rust. Repeated loosening and tightening breaks up the rust into powder, allowing the nut to come off.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thanks for all of the advice.

Any one have a recommendation on a toruqe spec to tighten the nuts for reassembly?

20 ft lbs.

thanks!