Been looking into various options for a rear drum puller and ran across this. I'm wondering if anyone has tried something like this. I suppose you just snug the cylinder portion against the axle stub using the threads on the OD, then turn the small handle . . . which must force a much smaller piston further, creating the pulling force (?). I'm curious to know if the high pressures claimed (12 tons of pulling force) are more effective then the sudden "impact" delivered by wailing on the end of a puller with a BFH. Any input?

For my money, I don't think it's worth it, but it's an interesting concept that I have not seen before.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hydraulic-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Rear-Brake-Drum-Remover-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56372efd27QQitemZ370293013799QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

I use a "leg" style one, too. Seems adequate. My technique involves walking away. I found that it nearly always rewards me by "popping" after sitting a few minutes(and doesn't fly off!).
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Mike!

Not sure if you can get Sykes Pickavant (UK company) tools in the US but their Hub puller and slide hammer are highly recommended in the UK by the 122 owners as being very good for removing the rear hubs.

Product Details
General purpose hub puller, for use with 4 & 5 stud hubs
Suitable for hubs with a spread of up to 175mm
Supplied with heavy duty slide hammer 8530900
Studs of 15mm diameter
4.35kg hammer weight

GBP 84.95

I have gotten away with using something like this
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200354081_200354081
used the monster pictured below the first few times but with a deft touch a smaller puller like this can be used....I like the tighten lug nut suggestion...will save the 1/2 shaft threads....probably wouldn't try it on a 3 bolt puller though.
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Patrick, '68 220, '92 Eurovan (work truck) '53 PD4104 (conversion).

Ideally you want one with a flat plate the bolts rigidly to the drum. The centre bolt then pulls on the half shaft. The good ones have a bearing on the end of the centre bolt so you don't mash up the end of the half shaft. A thread file is useful to have on stand by just in case.

Pulling on the wheel studs really isn't ideal. I've used the leg type pullers before I bought a factory tool, but its possible to distort the drum if it's stuck really tight.

The big plus with the Volvo puller, SVO1791, is the fine thread on the centre screw. This effectively gives much more leverage than a similar one with a coarse thread. The later versions of the Volvo tool usually have a T bar at the end which can be thumped with a BFH but you can make up someting similar to fit on the "nut" of this type. I have one of these and it's never failed to do the job for me.

Get the one from IPD, its the single most useful tool I've bought. That and the power brake bleeder. I tried for 2-3 days with no luck, I called the local volvo dealer and they were kind enough to rent me one for 30-40$ and I picked one up from Ipd as soon as I could. When you get it on don't tighten the lug nuts all the way, just a 1/4-1/2" onto the threads. Tighten the main bolt attached to the handle till its as tight as you can get it and then one by one tighten the lugs like you would instaling a tire. It will pop after about 2-3 lug nuts, be sure to leave the castleated nut on the spindle or you'll loose your shins when the drum comes free and flys across the room.

When in a pinch ask your volvo dealer to loan a puller to you, bring a case of beer for them when your done. Believe you me they just saved you a ton of blood sweat and tears...

I'm of the sudden brute force school here myself. I have an IPD puller, and when I reach a certain point, out comes a rosebud and a BFH to shake things, rather than tear things loose.

looks cute to me...

And cute is not what you want.. you want brute force.. I see that as being something that might work a few times, then get retired...

No need for hydraulics in this operation in my opinion..
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

I don't know about the hydraulic part. I had to pull my rear drums a while back and I made up a puller with some hardware and a square steel plate. The idea is to drill the plate for where the lug bolts are and then extend the lug bolts using threaded rod with the same type threads as the lug bolts, fastened to the lug bolts with threaded sleeves. It works great, very strong, 5 bolts pulling instead of one. I think the threaded rod is grade 5, and the sleeves probably ditto, the plate maybe 3/8th inch mild steel. Took me a couple afternoons and about 40 bucks to make it. This is based on my reading of posts on the BB where guys did similar things. You pull the drum by tightening each lug nut about one-half turn at a time, going in a criss-cross pattern.

I have an old, heavy duty puller that I got at a tag sale years ago. It came with 4 sets of legs, short and long rim set and a short and long stud set. I paid $50 for at the time but I have never regretted it. Hydraulics seem like overkill. Anyway to avoid any problem in the future and I know it has been offered before as advice, coat the spindle with anti-seize when reassembling, it will make a world of difference.

I had a really cheap one like the one Patrick of Mtl linked to. I bought it 10 years ago off of eBay for $8 new. It did the job.

Two years ago, I upgraded to this one for $60 ($75 w/ S&H):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Rear-Brake-Drum-Remover-1259_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d26f27509QQitemZ400085382409QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

It's a copy of a really good puller, it's very heavy duty. I know somebody who has an original one, besides the copy being a little rougher, it's just as good. 100X better than the first one I had.

Definitely keep the castle nut on (loosen it of course) until it pops free. Loosen the brake shoes too (probably not going to interfere if you hadn't adjusted the brakes for awhile).

Paul