I have read through the FAQ, Bentley, Haynes manuals and previous posts pertaining to this task.

I am going to be cleaning the original oil seperator (breather box) and the throttle body. I figured removal of the intake manifold would ease the process of the oil seperator removal. There is oil sludge build up around the box also that needs to be cleaned up-I am figuring the oil seperator is plugged up. Was going to run Gunk engine cleaner through it and soak it.

I have a new oil sep. seal, intake manifold and throttle body gaskets on hand. Have to go run and get a couple fuel line clamps but I think I have everything.

Any tips? How easy is it to knock the pesky hose down into the engine block?

Got manifold off-breather box wasn't moving upward due to wires.

Unbolted the breather box and pulled upward and what do you know??!!!???

Breather box nipple snapped off in drain hose!!!!

Luckily there was enough sticking out to pull it out free with the drain hose undisturbed

SIGH OF RELIEF!!!

Ordered new breather box from Tasca along with the hoses to the rear of the breather box-they were looking a bit rough so I figured I might as well replace them.

The nipple that was stuck in the drain hose was almost fully plugged up and after it was pulled free I noticed it was very very brittle.

If you choose to remove the intake manifold it would be an oportune time to replace the heater hoses also, but only if they are old of course.

Mark

Hello Travis,

Everyone else has pretty much covered all the necessary details except for one.

In replacing the oil separator box about a year or two ago, I used an aftermarket unit purchased from FCP. They look nearly identical to the originals. In fact, I replaced two boxes in two of the 93's we own. Despite the boxes looking nearly exactly the same as original, both boxes leaked from the vertical solvent welded seam. When they leak, the oil ooze trail is similar to that of a rear main seal leak.

I believe Randy Starkie suggested just cleaning out the old box and not replacing it. If you're bent on installing the new box, I'd check it for leaks (plug the holes and fill it with water) in the kitchen sink first.

Be very suspicious of the aftermarket units. Both of mine leaked after I checked 'em in the sink.

Marty Wolfson

I just did this job two weeks ago, and I'm a complete newbie. Nothing to it. Not to argue w/ Paul (he has TON more experience and knowledge and skill than I do), but I WOULD recommend removing the intake manifold the first time you mess w/ the breather box just so you can see everything you're doing very clearly. After you've done it once, you'll see how to do it w/out taking off the manifold.

One thing that nobody mentioned.. maybe my car is wierd.. but the wiring harness on mine is attached to the breather box via a large strap a screw, and needed to be removed before being able to remove the breather box. That was very difficult to see until I had the manifold off.

OK.. the manifold. Take the air bellows off the airbox, remove the AMM, and the bellows that goes to the throttle body. Label any connected hoses and remove them (although everything really DOES go back together very easily.. it's pretty obvious once you get into it. Better safe than sorry, though). I disconnected the throttle linkage, and unbolted and removed the bracket that holds the kickdown cable and disconnected that and tucked them both out of the way. Again, that may have not been necessary, but I hate working around things and it was easy to do. Then remove the throttle body and give it a good cleaning.

You do NOT have to disconnect any fuel lines. Art gave me that tip, and it's a solid one. Leave'em connected and the fuel rails and injectors intact. DO disconnect the electrical connections to the injectors and remove the grounds to the fuel-rail mounting bolts, then rebolt the fuel rail back on. Fish all those wires underneath the manifold, between cylinders 2 and 3. Remove the 8 nuts that hold on the manifold. They'll come off easy, as will the manifold. Swing it over and rest it on a towel on top of the airconditioner thingie and valve cover. Your breather box will be right there all by itself in the middle of all KINDS of space so you can keep a good eye on that hose leading into the oil pan everyone warns you about. It wasn't at all an issue when I did the job. Just don't force anything, and you'll be fine.

Make sure you have a new manifold gasket and throttle body gasket. It's a fun, rewarding, easy job, and it'll make you feel great when you're done. Not hard at all.

Hope that helps.

Barry

bblument-

It got dark out so the project is on pause (throttle body removed, amm, hoses, etc.).

And YES YES YES! I about had a heart attack because the breather box wouldn't move (mine has the bundle of wires/harness connected to the box with a clamp also.) Got bolts out of box and clamp removed from top but the wires are crammed in around the top of the box.

I think now I will definitly have to remove the intake manifold...

I can see on the open end (of the intake man.) where the TB was removed it has gunk build up!

Go for it... seriously, there's nothing to it. Why wrestle with stuff you can't see when, if you spend an extra 15 minutes or so, everything's clear as day. Plus, then you get to know for sure if your intake manifold gasket is good. Mine wasn't; it was cracked, and the cylinder 4 opening had shifted so much it was blocking almost 50% of the port. If you're going to go through the hassle of screwing w/ the breather box and flame trap, clean the throttle body, intake manifold, and ports in the head. Plus, it'll give you the confidence to attack other jobs once you do this one and the car runs so much better.

(I'm still trying to get up the nerve to attack the front strut cartridges).

Good luck!

Barry

Leave the Intake Manifold on there, take the large hose off the throttle body and get a good light and shine it in there from the front side of the engine. You don't have to take all that loose to clean the breather box. Lord knows as many times as it took to get that breather box leak on Inga fixed I should know.

And you don't have to plug off the fuel lines to change out an Intake Manifold gasket if that is all you need to do.

The oil separator box is held in place by just two 13 mm bolts on the side of the box. You can easily reach them by reaching around the back side of the throttle body with your right hand and leaning over towards the front of the car and looking in. I use a 1/4 inch drive on a short extension. After you pull the two bolts out, then all you have to do is lift straight up on the box. Take it out via the grill side of the engine and that is all there is too it.

Clean the box in a solvent for a couple of hours and have a couple of new o rings standing by. You want to get all that solvent out of the box before you install it in the car.

Guide the box in over the two holes and with the new o ring installed and guide it into place. You will see it drop into place when you get it lined up. Just don't get carried away and try to shove it into place. When you install it and you have nothing to worry about. Install the two bolts (after you get it lined up and in place) and get them snug. Then install the flame trap and hose, that were just cleaned. Inspect the bottom side of the large hose for holes and or cracks, and you will be done.

By the way, the test for a blocked up breather box is the same one as for a clogged flame trap if you have a chrome oil cap. You just loosen it so you can remove it but leave it sitting in place with the engine running. It sits there and vibrates with the engine, you have a positive pressure. The cap rattles around like a pressure cooker valve and you don't. The other way is to put your hand over the valve cover hole and see if you can fell a vacuum. You should, and if you don't you are headed in the right direction cleaning the breather box and flame trap.

Good Luck,

Paul

When I took one off a Junked '90. the harness above the Breather got in teh way. a little tweak to avoid the Harness caused a small plastic piece on the Breather to break. I know youv'e been cursing an aftermarket Box so you have more hands on then I do but I would be apprehesive about taking mine out

I have done all of the tasks you list, but not at the same time (would have been easier to do all at once) and was nervous the first time. Everything was easier than expected, but I was very aware of the caution not to push the tube down into the sump (hasn't happened yet). I think with the easy access you'll have with the manifold out of the way, it should go well - don't force anything.

Ron

93 245
93 944