I replaced the head gasket on my 740 Turbo and had the head refreshed and broken exhaust manifold stud fixed...Now the one roadblock to finishing the job is getting the oil drain line (Mitsubishi TD-05) attached to the underside of the turbo. I've got the manifold loose and can line up the holes side-to-side but it's as if the turbo needs to move towards the front of the car for everything to line up, which is impossible if the manifold is on the studs. Is there a trick to this? I've got the bottom of the return line in the block with a new O-ring, I've already shoved it in with some force...

Zack
1980 245DL M46 296k
1988 745T+ M46 242k

Well I just replaced the o-ring on my 85 740 turbo a couple weeks ago. When I first looked at what it was gonna take to remove the oil return line I thought I was gonna have to remove the exaust manifold. But what I ended up doing was i removed the two bolts that connect the line to the bottom of the turbo then I tryed to remove the line but it kept hitting the waste gate. So I then removed the two nuts that hold the waste gate on and pull it towards the radiator to remove it. Now you can turn the retun line to remove it. The bolt and nut closest to the block are kind of a pain to remove. Now I dont know what turbo I have the garret or mitsubishi but I dont see why it would matter. I hope this might help you

1. Some have decided to attach the drain line to the turbo first and with a helper. Mount the turbo loosely while the guy on the bottom guides the drain line into the block.
2. Others have JB welded a copper fitting into the block where the return line enters, cut off a piece of the drain line and added a flexible line attached with hose clamps.
3. And still others have added studs to the bottom of the turbo where the bolts screw in that hold the return line.....that way you at least have something to line up with, then add nuts.

Turbobricks(a volvo turbo forum) has several discussions on this topic. I personally have gone with number 1, only after foolishly demanding of my self that it could be done alone for more than a few moments.. I wish I had gone with number 2. each time that darn thing starts to leak.

Don't forget to put oil in the turbo via the oil input before you start it. :)

It will fit together. In the mean time I feel your frustration, as sweet memories of this challenge jogs my foggy old memory banks.

Best,
Bill

Thanks for the sympathy Bill, knowing others have been frustrated by this helped keep me going. Let it sit all last week, then finally had time to work on it today. Removed the wastegate cotter pin to get the arm out of the way, then used a tie strap (around wastegate arm and oil line) to locate the return line so it was just about lined up, then carefully put the screw on the end of an allen wrench and guided it up to the hole. With some patience and several tries, I got the inboard screw threaded in, then tightened, then worked on the outboard one and finally got it in too!

It's all back together now, just need to add coolant tomorrow during daylight and then fingers crossed it will start, run properly, and not leak fluids or exhaust.

Zack
1980 245DL M46 296k
1988 745T+ M46 242k

I would recommend that you disconnect either the inboard radio suppression relay or fuel injectors and crank the engine over a few times until the oil pressure light goes out. Then reconnect the wire and start the engine.

This way you won't dry start the turbo itself and risk damaging the bearing.