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Hello All,
I can't see properly anymore out of my yellowed headlight lenses and I'm contemplated purchasing the E-codes. I've polished the lenses a bunch of times and the yellowing seems to come back worse than ever. The car has 280K.
Please tell me if you think I will be able to use the headlight and turnsignal eyebrows from the Classic with the E-codes.
Thanks all,
Marty Wolfson
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Greetings:
For information, ClassicGarage.com sells bulbs, including an Indian made 75/70w (I presume the 75 is the high beam) H-4 - 9003HB, that is modestly more powerful than the standard bulb H-4, and is intended for use where you don't have HD wiring or giant alternator. The only negative I can think of is the light is "megawhite" which usually means a slight tint in the glass. Tint often reduces effective light output a little. I have never seen anyone else selling such a wattage. I have no idea about bulb life, but they are $15 a pair, so spare sets are not too bad price wise and would fit the DJ replica Volvo Cibie aero oem just fine. For other vehicles they have both 7" round and big square replica Cibies, which look interesting.
bmwjohn in indy / avon
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I get bulbs from candlepower.com. A little more expensive, but you get what you pay for. The favorite right now is the Osram 70/65W +50 bulbs.
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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Lots of H-4 choices here:
http://www.rallylights.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6
Susquehanna Motor Sports has a huge range of automotive lighting products, and they're a good firm to deal with.
--
In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them.
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You all are shaming me into taking action. I got the Taiwanese E-Codes from fcpgroton off eBay 2+ years ago and just never found the time to install them. Part of the reason is because I want to power them the "right" way.
Shortly after I bought this car ('92 245) I set out to improve its lighting, but I stopped after the intermediate step of installing Hella XL aux lights (XL = extra low beams - sadly, now discontinued). But I did invest in Daniel Stern's "plug 'n' play" wiring kit, and I'm getting ready to install it now.
I grabbed a "power bar" off a junkyard 240 - this is the driver's side bracket that holds the black terminal strip with main power connections. I found a good location to mount it on the car just aft of the windshield washer reservoir; needed to drill a couple of holes for #12 self-tapping screws, and I scraped metal bare under one mounting screw to achieve a good chassis ground.
High beams and low beams have their own relays. Lamp power is fed to the #30 relay terminals with #12 wire, and #12 wire is run from the dual 87 relay terminals to left side hi/lo and right side hi/lo connectors. Since the "power bar" is on the right side of the engine bay, I'm using oil-proof #10 AWG industrial wire from the alternator output terminal to the terminal strip on the "power bar" - this requires a 3/8" female quick-connect at the terminal strip, and a #10 stud ring QC at the alternator terminal. I use heat-shrink tubing liberally.
Each lamp gets its own #12 ground wire (note: same size as the supply wire) run to a nearby ground (radiator support on the right sides, power bar ground on the left side). Grounds for the relay coils are run to a #10 screw I bolted to the power bar.
The relays are switched by using a 9004 male connector from the Stern kit to plug into the passenger side chassis headlamp connector. I'm hoping that the relay coil current draw is minimal, so the bulb-out warning light doesn't come on. If it does, that's one dash light I'm removing.
Wiring runs longer than 12 inches are run inside that inexpensive, slit, "corrugated" loom stuff they sell at Auto Zone and similar stores. All wiring is secured with proper strain reliefs to minimize the chances of abrasion and outright breakage.
Using relays for high and low beams, as well as heavy individual grounds for each lamp, should minimize any voltage drop from the power source to the lamps. I'll try to remember to take voltage readings and hopefully, pics of nighttime beam patterns as well.
--
In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them.
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Gary,
You're way ahead of me probably having done similar auto wiring to get your theknow-how you've touted.
I'm very disappointed with the DJ. They are quite cheap and if I had to do it over again, I think I'd just purchase new lenses, hack the mounting screws off, replace the lenses and jb weld new studs in place.
But I've come this far so...... what's done is done, even to the extent that I think I'll redo that which I thought was done.
I notice you didn't mention fusing. Right now, I've run a 12 ga wire to my relay and power mounting bar buss (same mounting plate you mention) sans a fuse. I figured I'd distribute power to the relays with two fuses. Now I'm thinking of going back and tearing into the alternator to power bus wire and installing a fuse. Probably should have run back to original power buss adjacent to the battery to eliminate any worries about running power from the alternator.
To the neophyte, this is a daunting project, with different ga wires of diff colors, the diff terminal connectors and plugs. If I had to do it over again, I think I'd just splice into the existing headlight plug!
I'm running out of heat shrink tubing and yes, insofar as possible, I've run all my wiring in that corrugated sheathing.
Marty
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Marty, I've done a lot of instrument and power wiring on the job over the years (engineering labs) so the automotive environment doesn't faze me. Every so often I trip over an area at work that's getting cleaned out or moved, and I've saved lots of stuff from the dumpster, like a good supply of heat shrink tubing and all sorts of connectors. I'd go broke buying that stuff at Radio Shack.
I neglected to mention fuses. I went back and forth on that, but ultimately I used the Stern-supplied fuses in the power line going to each relay; I think they are 25a.
In a recent post, Art Benstein brings up some risks associated with taking power off the alternator. I wouldn't mount a fuse block anywhere near the alternator for the heat and vibration reasons; my fuses are up near the power bar where they won't be cooked or shaken to death. But to minimize the risk to the new 10 ga wire feeding the power block for the lamps, I tie-wrapped to the lower rad hose in a couple of places, then made the relatively short jump across to the inner fender and secured it with a P-clamp (vinyl-lined metal clamp) which is screwed to the fender. As routed, there is plenty of compliance in the wire so nothing is stressed as the engine rocks in its mounts. If anything, the new wire (also running thru some skinny plastic conduit) is more secure and protected than the stuff running under the front of the engine.
If I ever learn how to post photos I may take a few of the new lamp wiring. I truly admire Art's marvelous photographic documentation of his projects.
--
In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them.
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Marty,
Just responded to your email, hope it got to you, the "reply to" line in the email from the 'board was my email address so the first time it ended up going straight back to me. I think I found yours in the header and re-sent it, hey at least it got to me, the last 3 times I tried to use the email function on the board all I got was bounces.
Cheers
Dave
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Dave Shannon
Durango, CO
'67 1800s
'88-240
'01 Wrangler
'06 F250 Diesel 4X4
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Speaking from experience, it is possible but will require a little modification and Goop to make the main light eyebrow stick there. Harder with the ts piece. Some of our Euro friends can locate that stuff used. BTDT.
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Hi Bob,
Actually the ts eyebrows fit OK. The workmanship of the DJ Auto units is pretty poor, so the eyebrows and turn signal assemblies don't really line up too well with the space allotted for the turn signals along with the body lines. I guess little stuff.
The eyebrows are a "cheaper" plastic than the original Volvo eyebrows and scratch if you look at them crosseyed.
I'm still thinking of something there cause the old eyebrows def don't fit without the finagling mentioned
Marty
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The subject of ecodes cannot come up without mentioning Dan Sterns website.
I highly recommend talking to him as soon as you decide to install ecodes. His relay kits make the whole project worth it. He is a one-man operation so things can take a little time, contact him first.
This site has a nice write up of the process and some other good pics and diagrams.
I did purchase my eCodes from FCP, but I purchased through eBay and saved a bit over what they sell them for retail online. edit: Ahh that's right I found an auction like this one, and waited to make the only bid near the end and got them for $250 with free shipping instead of $299.
I tapped power directly off of the alternator and mounted my relays on the body sheet metal across from it and forward of the exhaust heat shield, wiring then runs to passenger headlamp, and through through in front of the radiator to drivers headlamp, and grounds out at the battery and another body grounding point on the sidewall there.
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Heh, google advertising. There was an ad for a kit to fix hazed plastic headlights down under the thread just now.
\/ \/ \/
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)
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You can either glue on the current trim, or paint the official E-code trim.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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Hi Ryan,
Painting the new eyebrows really isn't an option, unless you really know how to properly prepare the plastic. I'm afraid of messing with the new eyebrows cause if I screw that up, then I have nothing.
The plastic has a very shiny "chrome" coating. For the time being, I'm leaving well enough alone.
Marty
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There's gotta be some crazy primer out there that'll do it.... though you are going over chrome on plastic.... and chrome isn't the end of the world.
FCP can probably hook you up with replacement brow trim strips.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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Thanks Ryan,
Simple, wonder why I didn't think of that?
Hmmmmmmmm,
Marty Wolfson
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Where to purchase these E-codes? My day is coming soon. Not sure if it's my age or the lenses but either way. night time is getting tougher
I wonder if this kit is any good http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/19026/nm/Volvo_240_European_E_Code_Headlight_Headlights_/category_id/21
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Hi Tony,
Just got Jeff at FCP. He let me use the e-bay auction for $250, then I trick or treated for an additional 10% off.
Pull the trigger. We can both stumble around mounting these
Marty
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Just looking again. Is there an interface harness provided in this kit for the 9004 bulb to H4?
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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No there is no adapter harness with the FCP kit. They come with a pigtailed plug for the h4 bulb.
I did it on the cheap. I cut the actual bulbs of the old 9004 bulbs and soldered the h4 pigtails onto the pins in the plug part of the 9004 bulb. Then the 9004 plug fit right into the car harness. I was planning to get the Daniel Stern harness but I ended up being happy with the stock output.
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You know Jessie,
I think I should have listened to you.
Marty
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You were OK with the Brightness? Many people seem to think you need to go with Heavier gauge wire because of Voltage drop, They recommend the Daniel Stern kit. Even though the 9004 Bulbs draw the same current as the H4 bulbs. both are 65W bulbs
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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The real reason for upgrading the wiring with relays is simply "to get the most" out of the headlamps. Ideally, the wiring upgrade is probably worth doing with stock headlamps.
Volvo's shipped in every other market with the same gauge headlamp wiring that we have here in the US, just different headlamps. Therefore, the stock wiring is absolutely adequate.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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Hi Tony,
I bet the existing wire is adequate but........
I'm off to the JY today for a few items. I'm going to use 14 ga wire which should be fine - 12 ga wire is kind of diff to work with.
I have the relays, two wp fuse containers with 20a minis and I've just finally hacked my way through those miserable spinning mounting bolts and nuts on the old unit. No dremel - it died about a year ago, so I drilled through the center of the bolts and broke em out with vise grips, pia for sure. When I removed the headlight assemblies, the lenses fell off!
Anyway, just need a mounting bar and power bus shown in Dave Shannon's site and I can get to work. I'm going to take power from the alternator and use the headlight wires from the passenger side for my trigger. I'll abandon the 9004 connector on the driver's headlight.
I even have some of the proper brown relay 5 pin connectors but I don't think I'll have enough room to use them as it's tight just above the windshield washer jug.
When I get this thing done, I'll post some pictures.
Marty Wolfson
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If you can go with 12 gauge wire, it's worth it. I used 12 gauge on the '87 245 and 10 guage on the '90 245. The 10 gauge is stiff as all get out, but I got the 12 gauge for ye olde local tractor supply. Good stuff, plenty flexible.
I'll try to get pics from the '87's set up if you haven't already tackled this.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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"I have the relays, two wp fuse containers with 20a minis..."
Hi Marty,
I don't know what Dave or Daniel say, but in sticking with Volvo I'd skip the fuses.
1) They're one more junction that could drop a little voltage if/when corrosion sets in.
2) I wouldn't want to suddenly lose my lights if a fuse blows for some odd reason.
3) Volvo left the headlights unfused for a reason. My guess is safety.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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If you run headlamps direct from the battery via relays sans fuses, that's the opposite of safety.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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Ryan,
By "safety" I meant avoiding the chance of a wonky fuse suddenly killing the lights. Maybe far-fetched, but it works for me. And for Volvo too, apparently.
IMO a circuit direct from battery thru relays to bulbs has less need of fuses than the stock circuits that we've all used (at our peril?) for years, sans fuses:
High Beams...
Battery => junction block => fuse block common =>light switch => main headlight relay => hi-lo flasher relay => High beam bulbs.
Low beams...
Same as for Highs plus: from hi-lo flasher => back to Bulb Failure Warning sensor =>then out again to Low beam bulbs.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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It's true that there aren't fuses, though part of me always hoped there'd be at least *something* fusible in the main relay.... especially with mid-1980's wiring (yikes!).
Still, for a home brewed wiring harness, it just makes sense to fuse it IMHO.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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Hi Bruce,
I'm glad I have someone like you looking over my shoulder...........
There go the fuses. One less thing to bother with.
Marty
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I personally don't like the idea, and don't believe they are necessary if you are careful and thorough in setting up your revised wiring. One more thing to go wrong in a critical system.
If fuses are used, I'd go with separate fused circuits to the left and the right low beams, so you have some redundancy. In the event of a brief short to ground, or fuse failure for some other reason, you still have a headlight - not darkness. As for high beams, one (bigger) fuse is probably OK there.
Consider using a Circuit Breaker. There are auto-reset CB's in parts stores or the JY in a variety of amperage ratings which have the ATC fuse-type terminals and will plug right into an ATC fuseholder. These don't trip like a household breaker and stay off - they cycle repeatedly as long as overcurrent exists, so you get a chance to pull over, switch off, and find your problem. Things then operate as normal, no need for a new fuse.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles)
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Yikes. Use fuses!
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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Most assuredly use fuses -- two of them. One for the low beam relay and one for the high beam relay. As close to the power source (battery or alt) as practical. If one blows you've still got one set of headlights and time enough to pull over safely.
Daniel Stern, the expert, recommends fuses and includes two in his kit. Rallylights recommends one fuse and includes it in their wiring harness, feeding both relays.
--
1986 Volvo 245
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Hi there,
I'm posting not so much to rant, as have you all give some critical thought to Stern's general recommendations, as applied in the specific case of upgrading our 240 lighting. Many of you, have done this upgrade, and have learned by experience things I have not.
Daniel Stern, the expert, recommends fuses and includes two in his kit.
Daniel Stern is giving general advice to improve automotive lighting while minimizing the chance someone taking his advice will burn his house down, so yes, of course he's going to insist you put fuses in at the source of your do-it-yourself automotive circuit.
While his general recommendation to save millivolts ideally has you routing your wiring to the alternator B+, he probably doesn't take into consideration the mitigating practical situation presented by the 240's alternator being just under the exhaust manifold, where a commonly available fuse and holder suffers thermal and vibration derating.
And the alternator on most cars is a better environment for a connector than a battery terminal, so recommending the alternator has more than millivolts and lumens as its proponents. But this is all the general one-size-fits-all approach.
Yet the fuse located here is more important than its reliability, for it has to protect a do-it-yourself wire leading from the vibration-isolated accessory alternator in some uncontrolled (by Daniel anyway) fashion to the vibration-isolated engine and across this mechanical isolation to the body, where the lights and relays are. That's the scary part to me.
Sure, Volvo didn't use a fuse, uh, until 93. Wonder what prompted this mid-year course correction? Maybe not a do-it-yourself wire melted on an exhaust header after being parked in the attached garage, but a front-end collision? http://cleanflametrap.com/martys93fuses02.jpg
If I get to the point where the e-codes lure me to upgraded lighting on a 240, I probably will not follow Daniel Stern's generic suggestion to tap at the alternator. I will most likely take the power from the battery bus on the fender, and follow up with some measurements of voltage drop. The alternator to starter wire is almost 6 gauge, factory engineered (routing, clamping, protection), and it still (rarely) gets into trouble. The starter to battery cable needs maintenance, and sometimes replacement, for more reasons than lighting.
I have respect for Daniel Stern's advice and am confident he would agree there cannot be one wiring plan to fit all cars. If he was addressing the 240, he would have suggested replacing the alternator's regulator with an externally sensed unit, for the voltage drop (and lumen reduction) incurred by sensing temperature under the manifold is an order of magnitude worse than what you'll save by bypassing that 6-gauge alternator B+ wire.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Never test the depth of the water with both feet.
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This is exactly why I did not use the alternator in the 240. It's just in a bad spot, period.
An eye terminal on the battery lug's clamping bolt (a la 25A LH fuse) works fine.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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Art brings up some good points about taking juice from the alt vs the battery. I'm also taking it from the battery, although I don't like corrosion issues. Just have to keep an eye on it.
As far as the fuse issue -- I have terrible visions of driving down a dark road at night and having my headlights suddenly fail because of a blown fuse. Better to have no fuse -- Volvo's original solution. It's a trade off. The answer, for me, is two fuses -- one for each relay. Other makes of cars I've looked at have at least a fusible link or a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. Even a little fender bender accident can slice wiring. If you've ever seen a battery shorted out by an external wire you can appreciate having a fuse in the circuit.
--
1986 Volvo 245
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On my battery lug "clamp bolt", I have three eye terminals. One is the LH fuse wire, one is the low beam relay, and the other is the high beam relay.
One nice thing about taking it from the battery lug like this, is if that's all corroded, the fuel pumps won't be running either. :-)
Though, I always clean the contacts around there annually, 'cuz that keeps the FI system happy.
As for fuses being another point of failure, I gotta cry foul. Nearly every 240 came with the 25A fuse completely open to the elements. These fuses lasted like 10-15 years without any love, before corrosion gave the owner's headaches. A proper, weatherproof, marine-grade fuse holder should last almost indefinitely.
Fuses just don't blow at random. The lighting system is its own shiny new circuit with nothing else on it, so there's no need to worry about a fuse blowing. If it does, the high beams are just a pull away.
Finally, the whole accident safety thing is a hugely good point. I almost welded a combo wrench to our 740's alternator when I hit the hot terminal with one end of the wrench, while the other end was on a nut for the throttle body. That was a split second of stupidity. I shudder to think about a few minutes of 30 unfused amps.
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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Speaking of accident safety, this collision damage stopped me from using batteries with reversed terminal orientation.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
To write with a broken pencil is pointless.
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Scary! I took a few pictures of my car when new. The + battery post next to the fender had a big red plastic insulator on it. I have no idea what happened to it, possibly when Volvo replaced the battery. It was my wife's DD and she got all the maintenance done at the dealer the first few years.
--
1986 Volvo 245
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HMM, not using fuses, not something I'd do on add on wiring.
The factory harness is wrapped in a wear resistant covering (not getting into '80-87 harnesses) most are protected by a fusable link somewhere inline, and are designed by folks who do this for a living and take care not to route them where they can rub and secure them so they don't move.
Add on wiring if done right and properly covered/secured etc is probably OK but why take the chance? The voltage drop across a fuse is negligible and the safety factor is great. The difference between 14.3v and 14.25v won't make a bit of difference in light output and we all carry an extra 25A fuse for the injection circuit anyway don't we?
--
Dave Shannon
Durango, CO
'67 1800s
'88-240
'01 Wrangler
'06 F250 Diesel 4X4
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Marty, the thing I was thinking. To Keep the Bulb out Sensor functioning, you need 4 relays. if you do the Relay thing.
If you set the relays up off of just the Drivers side Headlight and run from teh relay to both Headlights, the bulb Out Sensor 'thinks' that the passenegr side headlight is out.
The thought was; use 4 relays (more troubleshooting issues in the future) or just convert the Connector from the OEM harness.
Let me know what you think of the Headlight Assemblies. Stern was critical of anything that wasn't OEM. If you think these Headlight assemblies wont pass the test of time ( A long time) let me know.
Thanks
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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You just need two relays. One for high beams, one for low beams. The 9004 headlamp connector just triggers the relays, which requires almost zero power to do, below the threshold to upset the bulb failure sensor.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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OK, now you're talking. I know the relays draw flea power but I thought they would trigger the Sensor.
So then it is easy to plug one original Light socket to the relays and then run a Drivers and Passenger side wire out and still be OK..
Without looking at it, I'm thinking that maybe a clean place to pick up the Heavy gauged 12V would be at the 25 Amp fuse on my '89. For your '93 there must be some 'direct from the battery ' wire on the drivers fender next top the High beam relay. That would keep teh wireing very clean.. no jumping from teh Alternator across to the passenger headlight area.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Hi Tony,
I just used a ring type connector (soldered and crimped) for the connection at B+ at the alternator, covered any of the connections with heat shrink tubing and ran all that in the corrugated wire sheathing up to the power "box" and relay bank that I mounted on a bar vertically on the sheetmetal between the headlamp and radiator. Keep in mind that I used the same 8" +/- mounting bar found on late model 240's that has the small black box power takeoff and relay found adjacent to the battery. The wiring from the alternator to this black box is neatly zip tied to the trans cooler lines in a couple of places. I can't post some pics, but I can e-mail.
I'm still in the midst of this and am a little betwixt and between on the fuse business. I have the little monkeys so I may install them.
Should be done this weekend and I'll shoot you some pics.
Marty
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I'll try and get some pics of the '87 240's set up this weekend.
I did the '87 245 after cutting my teeth on the '90 240... so the lay out is much smarter 2nd time around. I put the relays on the bracket that holds the ignition coil. Used a female (or is it male??) 9004 connector on the driver's side stock headlamp connector to trigger the relays. I tapped power off the battery with an eye-terminal.... same way the LH-fuse connects. A pair of waterproof 25A fuse holders (just like what IPD sells for the LH fuse)... finally, there are some really nice Hella H4 connectors. Connect it all together with your favorite flavor 12 or 10 gauge wire.
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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Hi Tony,
Unless I "read" Dave wrong, he explained that the current draw from the relay for "triggering" power was so small that the bulb out sensor wasn't affected.
I'd say that probably the easiest setup is to just eliminate the Original 9004 harness and splice into the H4 pigtails.
As I "waddle" through this, I'll keep you posted.
Marty
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That Works
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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If you're doing E-codes, definitely take the effort and install a relay harness per Daniel Stern's (.com) website.
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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The E-codes Draw a lot more Current then the OEM 9004's?
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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It's more about voltage loss that was present even when the cars were new, combined with 20 years of age. Basically, there's probably about a volt and change missing by the time it gets all the way from the battery/alternator to the headlamps... which translates into a decrease of like 20% in brightness. A relay set-up gets full alternator voltage out to the headlamps, so 100% brightness. Relays are worth it if you're going through the trouble (and expense) to get nice headlamps. Plus, it's an easy way to convert from 9004 plugs to H4 plugs.
Some folks will claim that you'll be eating bulbs left and right with higher voltage. Totally a bogus claim.
Of course, better wiring automatically sets you up to run slightly higher wattage H4's. Osram 70/65W's are simply awesome. Good color spectrum and optics. These bulbs, relays, and Cibie E-codes are as good or better than any headlamp on the road.
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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The original 9004 is 65/45W. The 9003 e-code replacement is 60/55W, so it's 10W more on dims and 5W less on brights. The off-road H4, Osram 64205, which some folks use for their e-codes, is 70/65W.
--
1986 Volvo 245
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VERY NICE
I was just glancing at replacement bulbs.
They are all over the chart. You can buy 55/60W for $6 and you can buy them for $42.
Good luck with the install. I suggest Bright sunshine.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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The turnsignal trim is a bolt on, for the headlight trim just cut off the mounting tabs and use a good quality silicone to stick it to the top of the headlights. This held up well for over 7 years, I put D J Auto units in my '88 in '01 using this method and just this year changed over to new Cibie E-Codes with factory trim a couple of months ago, trim in the DJ units was still solid.
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Dave Shannon
Durango, CO
'67 1800s
'88-240
'01 Wrangler
'06 F250 Diesel 4X4
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hello dave,
where are new cibies these days, aside from the dealer?
i have all my volvos with used cibies. just got the motorized cibies for my 940, recently.
regards,
byron golden
86 245
92 245
94 940
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Bought them from a vendor on ebay at least 5-6 years ago, probably more. I was saving them for when my DJs failed which they a few months ago (reflector holders) after being on the car since 10-'01.
Haven't been keeping up on 240 stuff lately, just drop by the 'board once in a while for old times sake.
Cheers
Dave
--
Dave Shannon
Durango, CO
'67 1800s
'88-240
'01 Wrangler
'06 F250 Diesel 4X4
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Hello
please let me know if you figure out how to wire up the motorized 940 e-codes.
i have the same and the switch but not sure if i am missing any parts.
thanks
Mike
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hello mike,
yes, not a problem. let me work on it and i'll document what i do and send you the steps.
i've have most of the conversion parts. i need 2 additional sockets for the turning signals. my 94 940 doesn't have the foglight setup, so i had to buy all the body parts for foglight swap.
i plan to start the swap tomorrow. i'm starting with the relays and the wiring to the alternator. it will take me a few weekends. i just bought the interior switch and the grille.
do you have the wiring diagram for the 940? it shows the euro wiring diagram, i think. haven't looked at it for a while.
i bought a 94 wiring diagram from the volvo usa site, and it's a damn bound copy, not an original green book--pages are already falling out, damn ford. i did find a very good condition 93 green wiring book, though, almost the same (haven't found any differences in the two, yet).
right now, i'm working on my 86. i'm doing a complete swap of a/c systems, and i mean a complete swap: from heater core & box to replaced firewall partition to installing the gm style silver can, hoses, condensor, and a/c. i have a 92 parts car. i am keeping my 86 a/c switch, though.
i've added an on/off toggle switch for the a/c compressor and kept my 86 a/c dial switch. i don't like the later 240 a/c snowflake on/off switch.
i don't recommend anyone doing this unless they are planning on keeping the car for years, have access to the require parts and well versed in working on the car--dash, center console, a/c work. i had my 86 painted and added a new windshield last november.
next on my 86, i'll put on the cloth seats & a new volvo set of strut bearings.
i have the motorized headlights and switch for the 240 as a spare, also.
sorry for the ramblings.
regards,
byron
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Hello Byron.
i have the green book wiring diagram but i believe not all the info is there to complete the job. seems something is missing.
talked to art about this and he is willing try to help soon as i can do my part.
hopefully you can figure this out.
thanks
Mike
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Hi Art.
seems simple enough now that we have more info.
i will have to check this info out maybe later today.
thanks again
Mike
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hello mike,
good to see that you got 'em--should have figured art would have this already.
strangely, my exact copy of the 2 wiring pages show pp 52-53, not 60-61 as in art's pages.
regards,
byron
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Hi Byron,
It took me a long time, but I have learned there are two issues of the 93 wiring diagram; one early (like mine) and one later to cover the mid-year changes such as the PAL fuses on the battery terminal. Mine is TP31953/1. Mine is the one the Bentley copy is made from.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Wear short sleeves! Support your right to bare arms!
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hello art,
thanks for the follow up--good to know about the different wiring versions; i didn't even know, among other things volvo.
i didn't follow up with you on the tranny jack. i "jacked" around with it until i got it to drop both my 86 & 92 trannies.
always enlightened when you write.
regards,
byron
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mike,
i found the 240 headlight motor wiring diagram in english! a ronald jones mailed the 2 pages to me--it's not pdf. no wonder i couldn't find it in the emails. i have his email, just in case. hope he's still around.
let me make a pdf file of it on monday and i'll send it to you.
i'll send a copy to that museum curator, art b., the repository of all things volvo rwd.
all right dude, we're in business.
i also have a pair of the motorized h/lights for my 240 sitting on the shelf & both of my 240s have the cibie euro h/lights.
i'm good to go.
regards,
byron
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Mike,
i have the wiring diagram for the 240 somewhere. someone sent it to me, and i bet it's the same wiring diagram for the 940.
hint: try looking at the 93 240 wiring diagram in the bentley. i may have seen it there.
i'll look for the wiring diagram. i printed it out and i hope it was a pdf file and stored it somewhere.
i finished with the wiring for my 940 ecodes. i worked on the 86 245 today. been very busy, but i'll check my email and paperwork.
it's around here somewhere. sorry for the delay.
regards,
byron
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Thanks Dave,
Sounds good. I'm ordering the units today.
Marty Wolfson
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