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The odo says 90K and appears to be correct, not 190K miles.
The flame trap vent hose goes to atmosphere, and the carb to filler cap is soaked with oil. I want to take off the flame trap, but need instructions. I don't see any screws on the B18.
The hose to atmosphere is probably because there is a little blow-by at the rings. Now, this poor car hasn't been run much in the last 5-6 years and I wonder if some of the rings are just stuck. Would a soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil help? Should I even do it? I plan to be gone for the weekend and could let the MMO just sit for 4-5 days.
I will be putting in new plugs, one of the old ones gapped out at .035+ because of a lot of wear. All 4 plugs came out coated white after a 15 mile highway run.
The engine does 'sputter', regardless of timing setting. I will have to borrow a compression tester to figure things out. I hope it is not a bad valve.
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 1967 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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MMO should not be underrated. I had a similar problem in an MGTD and an old Gravely tractor, I allowed the soak to go on for 2 weeks just to be sure and it worked great in both cases, raising compression. The worst thing that could happen is that the oil will drop down into the oil pan. I put my cars and other gas powered equipment away for the winter with a shot of MMO in the cylinders and Stabil in the gas tanks. Spring starting is a breeze after that, although there is a lot of white smoke at first.
A good degreasing will go a long way to improve your attitude when working on any car, don't forget to have it cleaned up underneath as well. Steam baby steam!
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Tune it, (valves especially you may get away with not messing with the carbs yet).
Time it (using timing light not static).
Drive it (short change the first oil change)
Grease it lube it change out dif and tranny oil. watch out for your brake fluide level or you will
Crash It!
Keep it simple.
you will find enough little things to do without worrying about the rings. If a problem arises it will let you know and give you a chance to get home ( hopefully).
Theses are tough cars....very tough cars...especially the 220 as regards the rear suspension set up.
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Patrick, '68 220, '92 Eurovan (work truck) '53 PD4104 (conversion).
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Klaus,
If I were you I would check the valve lift while you are at it. Cams wipe out easily in those.
The oil trap is held on by a ¼"-20 UNC bolt directly below the pipe into the block.
It has a 7/16" head but you can't see it because it is under everything. You might get
it out using a 7/16" socket and a short extension on a ratchet handle.
MMO may help loosen the rings but a good hard run might do as well.
Soak it over the weekend then wind it up after you get back.
Unless you think your distributor really needs it, I wouldn't mess with the advance springs.
But I would check the timing. If it is advanced 20° or more you might back it down some.
Maximum overall advance at speed should not be more than about 35°.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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Thanks for the flame trap screw location. The entire block is black, not red, because of oil. Very old oil, not new leaks. So I never bothered to stick fingers under the trap. I will take it off and soak it clean. I have visions of taking the car to a detailer and have them steam clean the engine bay. There is just too much oil and dirt to do it on my driveway.
Time flies when you are having fun. I never got to the parts store today, so probably Tuesday will be my next shot at this car.
C.A. says thanks for the prayers!
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 1967 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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Regarding the engine cleaning...
Sometimes DIY car washes have a bay for degreasing that will capture the gunk and send it to a holding tank. You may want to check around.
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odo says 90K and appears to be correct, not 190K miles.
Ok, let's say it's 90k & original. The compression rings are probably fine, but the old one piece cast iron oil rings are going to be sad. If you have skill & the tools, you could tear it down, clean it all, deglaze the bore, clean it again, then hopefully put it back together again with some cheap aftermarket rings & one head gasket + lip seals front & rear + some aftermarket O-rings & you can do that all for change out of $100.
Lets say you have to pay someone to do all that for you or it's actually 190k, well just put some diesel oil & a filter on it & give it a good cane up to 5000rpms for a few hundred miles. If it's 90k miles, it may deglaze the bore & reduce it's oil consumption, or it might break the top rings & really hurt it.
3rd choice: it's actually 190k. Just clean it up, change the oil & filter & drive it casually, don't flog it & it will keep going until you can afford a fairly full rebuild.
All 4 plugs came out coated white after a 15 mile highway run.
Are they BPHS6 or 7? Is it low compression? Maybe it truly is 90k.
--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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The plugs are BPHS6, fairly old and worn down. I would think the compression is fairly high because I got some light pinging going up hill in 4th at 50mph. The car doesn't have a tach yet. This is a very low budget operation so far, and I hope to keep it that way :)
I will have to 'borrow' a compression tester next week, I am as curious as all of you are. That will tell me if I need to use 89 Vs 87 octane as well.
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 1967 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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My B18 has healthy compression figures but is venting substantial amounts of exhaust gasses to atmosphere from the block breather (standard Swedish model '67 setup) to the extent that the car is getting to be undriveable as the cabin lacks fresh air. In my case, I reckon that the problem is tired rings caused by a higher compression head upgrade a couple of years back. You really need a leak down test to show 'sustained' compression rather than peak compression - otherwise, you'll end up with my figures and no real answers. Others here will no doubt offer more expert advise but I reckon that if wet and dry standard compression tests return good figures but a leak down test returns lower figures then your engine may well be fine with a hone and new rings, provided that oil pressure is good.
Its a great opportunity to replace gaskets and seals, especially crankshaft etc.
--
1967 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL
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This is a very low budget operation
There's your answer! Just clean out the oil traps, change the oil & oil filter.
If it's just pinging at 3000rpm (full throttle on the flat in 3rd at 35MPH), then you could slow the timing down a little by putting a tad more tension on the small spring in the distributor. If it's pinging at 4000rpm, try colder plugs then try better fuel. Does it diesel at all when you turn it off?
I actually start with BP7HS, even in B20A's. You have to tread very lightly to make use of BP6HS.
I will have to 'borrow' a compression tester next week
That's a somewhat pointless exercise. If you have a sad cylinder, are you going to shell out for a full short block rebuild?
The car doesn't have a tach yet.
I rarely had a tach in my car. If you've got time to look at the tach while you are driving, then you aren't driving hard enough. Paying for a tach is money that could be put to better use.
--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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Guys - aren't white-ish plugs a sign he is running lean?
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Guys - aren't white-ish plugs a sign he is running lean?
Yes.
He has a DGV Weber on it which IPD claimed that it met pollution laws, so I assume IPD sent their Weber kits out setup like that, but I don't think I've seen anyone ever post that they have a DGV & it runs flawlessly.
How's you DGV run Klaus?
--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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That white is lean and or too hot. I am leaning toward too hot (plugs), especially when the electrodes appear to being worn down.
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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Did you put a set of BP7HS in it?
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Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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Yes, I did. The engine seems to be able to rev higher with the 7s. Of course, the timing and dwell still need to be perfected.
The very faint "ping" is still there, but that could also be due to the timing or the 87 octane gasoline, regular.
Now that the engine is behaving properly, I have a million other things to check out. Like the rattle at higher rpms from somewhere. And a slight 'burble' at the exhaust at 500rpm idle. This is getting to be a fun project/learning experience :)
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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Yes, I did. The engine seems to be able to rev higher with the 7s.
Did you fit brand new 6's in the begining, or were they the plugs that it came with?
The very faint "ping" is still there, but that could also be due to the timing or the 87 octane gasoline, regular.
Lots of questions for you:
At what rpms does the ping happen?
How much timing does it have at idle?
How much timing does it have at 4000rpm?
When revving it up with a timing light, does it advance somewhat smoothly & then reach at maximum point?
Does it diesel? (Run on when you turn it off)
What motor is it? (B18 or B20A or B, does it have dual downpipe exhaust, what cam?)
Are you keeping this one or will you get rid of it when you get sick of it?
--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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The original 6s were a little tired, the gap on them had burned down to .030+
To your plethora of questions, I don't have a timing light or dwell meter yet, so I cannot answer them yet. It is all done by ear at the present time.
B18, but I don't know which cam is in it. When I pulled the valve cover, there were no markings that I could find on the cam. All of the lobes looked good, with plenty of oil.
Will I keep the car? Hmmm. I already have a daily driver and a summer fun car, so I don't NEED the 220. But, I do want to work on it. There is no undercarriage rust that I can see, but half of that is covered in oil from the leaking front seal that I just fixed.
I will keep Cynthias car until at least next summer. I keep forgetting to buy a Lotto ticket, but if I win, I will take all of the rubber off and repaint it California white.
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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Does it have a dual downpipe exhaust manifold?
It can't be a high compression B18B because you simply can not shut one off without dieseling.
Don't bother buying a dwell meter, it's a waste of money, but do buy a good timing light. In the meantime, I would set the timing statically.
How common or uncommon is the car? I have no clue about the earlier Volvo's because they are rare in Australia, unlike the 140 & onwards & Volvo trucks.
To your plethora of questions
Was it a plethora or a virtual plethora? :)
--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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