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B20 cam gear installation question 120-130

I'm ready to install the steel cam gear having already installed it's mate on the crankshaft. Looking at the green manual, I had concluded that the snout of the cam had an internally threaded hole which I could use to draw the gear gently into place. However that does not appear to be the case on my cam. I'm certainly not going to tap it, even lightly, with a hammer, but I could rig up a bar across the gear and use a couple of the timing cover bolt holes to draw it onto the cam. My question is whether this would put undue stress on the cam and consequently the plug at the rear.

Thanks,








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    B20 cam gear installation question 120-130

    Dont forget the spacer ring on the cam behind the retainer plate, I forgot mine one time and was hard to turn over. Just a reminder.








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    Yikes!!!! 120-130

    Don't do that!!!!
    Make sure the snout of the cam is very clean- use a bit of 600 grit if you like. Make sure the new gear is smooth and clean in the bore as well - 600 too. Oil the snout, the bore, line up the timing marks ( you may have to stand on your head to do that) and the keyway, and then gently wiggle the gear, very slightly and it will slide back nicely, enough that a thread or two is exposed. Oil the big nut and wind it on by hand. With hand power, or VERY little wrench power, the nut will pull the gear down onto the snout of the cam.
    The snout and the bore are essentially "zero" fit - no slop, no interference. They'll slide a bit when clean and oiled.








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      Yikes!!!! 120-130

      Thanks Rhys. Tonight I will do as you advise. Do you know how the SVO 2408 tool shown in the green manual actually works? Do some cams have an internally threaded snout?

      Cheers,








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        Yikes!!!! 120-130

        You use SVO2408 by screwing the threaded "bolt" into the cam nose, originals were threaded, and then screw the outer part in to press on the gear. Maybe able to replicate something similar with a short length of tube, a bolt and a large washer. Press on gear by screwing in the bolt. You can also use the treaded hole to mount a short handle to help keep the cam steady when fitting. Helps to stop damage to the cam bearings.








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        Yikes!!!! 120-130

        George has it right - the tool uses the external thread as I recall. Never had or used one though.
        I also made a bar from heavy angle iron, with two 3/4 inch steel pins welded to it, to restrain the cam gear while tightening. Especially with the fibre gear, it's best not to block the crank gear and depend on the very few teeth engaged in it to hold back the tightening torque. With the steel gears you'll probably be OK.








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        Yikes!!!! 120-130

        Looking in the B18A manual (not shown in the B18B/D manual) it looks like it has a thin
        internally threaded sleeve that screws onto the nose of the cam.
        The hole in the end of the cam is just a center hole for grinding.
        If you thought that light tapping on the gear would push the soft plug out of the back
        of the block, what made you think pulling it down with bolts wouldn't do the same?
        I usually tap the gear lightly but start with the camshaft pulled forward and tap with
        something lighter than the camshaft. Almost always gets it far enough on to start
        the nut.
        --
        George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!







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