Would anyone know for sure if an exhaust header pipe (from manifold to catalytic
converter) from a 92 740 would fit a 93 940, same engine 8 valve etc. I believe both to be Regina, but can't tell on the 740 (has distributor on rear of head, if that tells anything). And I can't tell what the difference is in those pipes for a regina versus a bosch setup. They both look the same in pictures. These are both NON egr value cars. Any help would be appreciated.

Just installed new header pipe for Regina ignition, for 1993 940. Could anyone tell me is there suppose to be some kind of support strap bolted to the area right behind the Y on the header. It comes with welded band on pipe that has threaded holes for something?? My old pipe had this set up also, but no support bracket bolted to it. Just 3 nuts to engine pipe, and flange to the catalytic converter but no other supports? thanks for any help.

yes there is which is meant to reduce vibration in the header pipe.
240's have them as well. i have yet to own a 240 or 940 which has the complete setup there intact. most rust away and finding the vibration dampening hardware which connects the bracket on the trans tunnel with the header in junkyards is almost impossible. you can either make something up or buy it from volvo if it is still available.

fyi none of my 240's or 940's have ever had this bracket connected to the header and as far as i can see it has not made any difference.

Dear Kenzoil,

May this find you well. The best I can do - even after having consulted Volvo VADIS (the now-superseded Volvo dealer parts/service database) - is to offer a definite maybe.

For 1992 and later models, exhaust systems appears to interchange at least for Rex-Regina models on the one hand, and Bosch models on the other hand.

Thus, while Rex-Regina and Bosch header (engine) pipes will not interchange, those for a 1992 car with Rex-Regina ignition/fuel management will interchange with those on a 1993 car, with Rex-Regina ignition/fuel management.

As is usual with Volvos, there are improved versions, so the chassis number - the last six or seven digits of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) - is needed to have the best chance of getting the right part.

The only way to know for sure is to put the two parts side-by-side. I realize this is cumbersome, but the absence of part numbers on these items (the part number usually is on a paper label, that is quickly lost) leaves few alternatives.

As a result, I do not cite part numbers, as used parts are unlikely to have any part number labels still present or, if present, legible.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook