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Alternator Issue? 200

posted by  Laramie on  Thu Sep 17 04:58 CST 2009
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last visit: Tue May 27 12:19 CST 2014
[RELATED]

Initial Problem:
1) Car Hesitates, primarily on acceleration
2) SRS light Illuminates
3) Battery Light, Brake Failure light, Parking Brake Light, Bulb failure light come on while driving - bright at low RPM, dim at High RPM

Action taken - replace voltage regulator on alternator with a used part from local junkyard, until a new part can be ordered

Result:
1) Battery Light, Brake Failure light, Parking Brake Light, Bulb failure light extinguished, BUT
2)Car starts right up with a jump, however SRS light comes on after several minutes idling, and gas guage slowly moves towards empty, and the car dies.

Do I need an alternator?

Thanks!!








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    Alternator Issue? 200

    posted by  rusteebrick on  Thu Sep 17 06:07 CST 2009
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    last visit: Wed Aug 20 10:24 CST 2014
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    Welcome to the club of those of us carrying stand-by regulators. You now have a spare.

    You may have needed a regulator. You may need a complete alternator. Or, you may need a battery. But it would be hard to know which with what we know so far. The symptoms you describe could be caused by all of the above, or by just corroded or loose connections between the battery and the car or the alternator and the car. A good diagnosis might benefit from a little preliminary cleaning and tightening.

    Corrosion at the battery posts will prevent the battery from charging well or cranking and a bad connection at the alternator (little red wire) can keep the dash warning lights on. You may have already done this maintenance, and I mean no offense if you have. I would start with the battery negative post and work my way back to the positive post by way of the alternator, cleaning and tightening as needed all connections in between. If the battery clamps have been replaced, and they probably have been, corrosion can hide there, too, where the clamp meets the wire. I would leave the negative post disconnected from the battery until you're all done to prevent arcing surprises.

    Once you've got good connections all around, a volt meter across the battery will give you some idea about the alternator health when the car is running and some idea about the battery health when it's not. A good alternator should produce upwards of 13.5 volts to keep the battery recharged, and battery voltage should settle back to no less than about 12.6 volts after shutdown.

    Here's an easy-to-remember rule about car battery life: Buy the correct size standard battery, expect it to last about four years. Buy the top-of-the-line battery, feel really good about it and expect it to last about four years.

    Good luck with it!







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    Alternator Issue? 200

    posted by  TONY H on  Thu Sep 17 05:39 CST 2009
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    last visit: Fri Oct 17 16:39 CST 2014
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    Glad you saved money $400+ for that alternator really hurt
    --
    '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm








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      Alternator Issue? 200

      posted by  Laramie on  Thu Sep 17 06:07 CST 2009
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      last visit: Tue May 27 12:19 CST 2014
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      Yeah man. . .might have to call and set those guys straight. They told me there was no regulator on the alternator.

      Thanks for the Tips and help!!








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        Alternator Issue? 200

        posted by  TONY H on  Thu Sep 17 06:31 CST 2009
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        last visit: Fri Oct 17 16:39 CST 2014
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        That's why you read a lot of us stating to make sure the mechanics know 200's.

        These cars are basic, simple a easy to work on IF you familiar with them.
        Your alternator guy was clueless
        --
        '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm







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