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so finally all the parts i ordered from tasca volvo have arrived and i'm ready to replace my radiator, hoses, and heater hoses. i had two questions about the job as i've never done it before:
1) is it necessary to "flush" the coolant if I'm alread taking out the old radiator and putting a new one in? If so, what is the best way to do this flush, after I've drained as much coolant out as possible? Can I just put a garden hose into the upper radiator hose?
2) (this is going to sound like a very stupid question) what's the rule of thumb for how tight to make a hose clamp? I always seem to overtighten everything, and I don't want to break any of the radiator fittings.
also, totally unrelated, but I bet one of you wizards on here knows the answer to this as well: the back winshield wiper (its a wagon) doesn't turn on, though the cleaner fluid squirts out. Is there an easy way to tell if its the motor that is bad, or some other fault in the wiring? i'm assuming it isn't the fuse, as that fuse seems to cover the stereo as well, which works.
thanks!
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To tighten hoses, turn the clamp down so that the hose is held securely by the clamp on the radiator side of the plastic barb on the outlet pipe. The clamp band will be flat against the hose, squeezing it firmly but not enough to crack the pipe.
--
See the 700/900 FAQ at the drop-down menu above right.
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If you have an OEM radiator there is a drain cock on the lower right where you can drain it. There is also a drain cock on the lower rear part of the engine, right side. I think they both seal with conical surfaces so you don't need very much torque to these.
Put the heater to max warm before draining.
Thermostat housing is also a good place to put your hose and flush, since you already open this for replacing the thermostat?
As for tightening the hose clamps you dont need very much torque since you have new hoses. A 7mm socket with a screwdriver type handle and flexible shaft is the best tool for the clamps. Check for leaks after driving a few miles.
Your rear wiper most likely have a seized mechanism. Not to difficult to replace. This is a common failure on the wagons, at least on the salty Swedish roads.
HTH
mila
(who just flushed two 945's)
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Hi Mila,
Thanks for the advice. I will have the thermostat open because I'm putting a new one on. I'm also replacing the water pump. I was mainly wondering if I should bother trying to flush out the residual old fluids after I have all these other hoses/water pump off.
As for the wiper--is a jammed mechanism something that can be fixed, or does that mean i replace the motor? Where would I check for this? I'm assuming I take the rear door panel off?
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Undo the panel and snap the linkage apart. It's a ball-in-a-plastic-cup fitting that can be separated. Now the linkage should move easily, otherwise time to replace it. The linkage is a separate replaceable unit from the motor. Should be fairly obvious when you look at it.
You can also thest the motor now by activating the wiper. I've replaced the linkage on both my 945's, both motors had survived the seizing.
Take care not to scratch the outside of the door with the wiper when the linkage is separated.
HTH
mila
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For flushing the cooling system, drain the block, and flush out the heater core. I have a nice air compressor, so I just use a little shop air to gently blow the coolant out of the heater core. Just make sure to system is basically empty. A little residual coolant won't kill the flush.
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john
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Hi John,
THanks for the advice. Is there a technique for flushing the heater core without using air? I don't have any compressed air. And what is the best place to access the heater core to do the flush--just at the upper heater hose coming into it? I'm also replacing the water pump when i do this job so I'll have all sorts of parts taken off.
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I'm going to do my cooling system work tomorrow but in getting ready for the job I realized that I had a question about the water pump replace instructions on the FAQ section here. The instructions seem like they will be a terrific help--very thorough. But one of the steps says:
"There are four small bolts (10mm) that hold the fan to the water pump hub. They also hold the pulley. Using a six-point 10mm socket, remove fan, leave pulley for now."
This sounded odd to me, so I looked under the hood on my car (94 945 non-turbo) and realized that indeed there is no fan, or anything else connected to the water pump hub. Are these directions from an older model, or am I just misunderstanding something fundamental here?
and finally, my last question, I promise: how does one determine the correct tension of the belt that attaches to the water pump, once the pump has been installed and you are bolting everything back together. Do I need to measure the tension somehow, or just eyeball it to how it was before?
thanks!!
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Dear ekphrasis,
May this find you well. I recently changed timing belt and water pump on 94 940. The electric cooling fan means there is nothing attached to the water pump. The four, 10mm hex-head bolts hold on the pulley spool, that drives the pump.
If you search recent posts, you'll find my procedure for emplacing the pump. I used a small bottle jack, to keep the pump snug against the underside of the head, having first snugged - but not fully tightened - the pump bolts and nuts. A bottle jack allows you to raise the pump very slowly. You'll need to make a wooden rod, that goes from the top of the bottle jack to the flat section, on the underside of the pump. The pump did not leak.
I'd also recommend Volvo dealer-supplied seals. That, for the coolant pipe at the back of the water pump, resembles a small thick rubber band, but has slightly rounded edges. The slight rounding promotes a good seal. Aftermarket versions do not have this slight rounding, and so resemble a rubber band, most of which have sharp edges. That can complicate the installation.
Hope this helps.
Yours faitfully,
Spook
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posted by
someone claiming to be Onkel Udo
on
Wed Sep 16 18:23 CST 2009 [ RELATED]
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If you have no mechanical fan then...you do not need to unbolt it. I am not familiar enough with the 900 series car, but my guess is that it had one at one time. The PO could have removed it and put a higher capacity electric fan on. Makes you wonder though.
With most v-belts the rule of thumb (pun intended) is to depress the the belt with your thumb at its midpoint and it should go a thumbs-width down using only arm pressure. The other non-scientific approach is that should be able to turn it 90 degress but just barely. Me, I tighten them until I think it is not quite tight enough and test start the car to check for squealing. You will be tightening up the belt at the next oil change, or sooner, in most cases anyway to account for intial belt stretch.
Keep asking questions...it is easier to learn from others' mistakes...er, experience...than your own.
Onkel Udo
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I second this approach for belt tension. It has kept my latest pump going for 400000kms.
Mila
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A simple brass nozzle from the hardware store -- like this one -- fits the ID of heater hose perfectly -- not just on Volvos too. Stick it in the upper heater hose, tighten the clamp, turn on the water.
BTW, you only need the end nozzle, not the other fittings. This was just the first pic I found online.
Good luck.
EDIT: Hmm, the image didn't upload. It's in the Gallery called "Heater Core Flush Tool"
http://www.brickboard.com/IMAGELIB/?js_link=1&pix_type=TECHNICAL
--
Jeff Pierce (Post back with your results... it's what makes this forum work.)
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