I just bought this '90 745 Turbo, and when I got it the lights were a mess. I spent today fixing it and this is the story so far:

RF headlight out - new bulb, fixed.

LR brake light, taillight out. Non-OEM taillight assembly partially melted, warped, etc. Lots of cleaning, scraping, bending, and adjusting later and the brake and taillight on the left side both work. 3rd brake light works perfect as well.

Bulb failure light blinking when right turn signal on. Cleaned the contacts for that bulb in the rear and no more failure light blinking. All turn signals work. The reverse lights work and the fogs work front and rear.

RR brake light out, taillight works. The bulbs are matched, the fuse is good, the bulb socket is good, the OEM Cibie light assembly is good and properly grounded. No brake light. The bulb failure light comes on when I hit the brakes. I switched the turn signal wire and brake light wire back there, and the brake light became the turn signal, but the turn signal light would not light up when I hit the brakes, so I'm 99% sure there's no zap going to that wire (it's the SOLID YELLOW wire).

The wire itself is in perfect shape back there at least. Where does this wire come from and where will I find the other end of it? What else could be causing this specific brake light to not work?

Very interesting site. Hope it will always be alive!

Very cute :-))))

Perfect work!

Very cute :-))))

Great. Now i can say thank you!

Great. Now i can say thank you!

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I want to say - thank you for this!,

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Excellent site. It was pleasant to me.,

z7a332 I bookmarked this link. Thank you for good job!

Hey Andy,



Nice work finding out it was the bulb out relay. I had the same thing go out on my '92. They decided to fix mine by bypassing it... After putting the wiring back the way its supposed to be, my lights were still out. Same problem as you, the bulb out relay. Except both my rear brake lights didn't work.


Usually, a solder joint fails inside the relay. If you are handy with a soldering iron, they can be fixed. Its like the other bad solder joints you come across on these cars.

I do suggest you get a cheapie digital voltmeter. Its a indispensable tool for electrical work. I got mine for about 30 bucks at Radio Shack. I'm sure you can find one online cheaper. Its very handy.


Cheers, Jon 'Uncle Olaf'

I got a cheap multimeter at Murray's/O'Reilley for $14.95. So far, it's saved me hours of grubing around with a test light, and shown me two "low voltage" situations that would light a test lamp, but not power an accessory.

Harry

It was the bulb failure relay.

I should've known.

*shakes fist in direction of Sweden*

Test for voltage at the receptacle with a voltmeter . Are the fuses ok?

I dont have a schematic but I would think that you would want to check for voltage as close as possible to the "brake switch". Do you have a test light ?

I don't have a multimeter.

The fuse is good, as is the light assembly itself, the socket, and the bulb. All contacts are clean and making firm contact.

I'm certain there's no power to the yellow wire.