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Hello all,
Aside from vacuum leaks and the aux air valve, what might cause my '76 244 to idle at 23-2500 rpm? I really need to fix this before 1) my clutch goes away and 2) I go deaf!
Thanks
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Hi there,
How did it happen, or is the car new to you?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
You got to be careful if you don't know where you're going, because you might not get there. -- Yogi Berra
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Well, the car was sitting for a little more than a month while I was out of town. When I got back, I drive it around town and it was fine. Then I gave it to my wife to take to an A/C repair place near her work (50mi away or so). When she got back, it was idling high.
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I believe there is supposed to be a solenoid valve to open up a throttle bypass path, operated by the same wiring that operates the AC compressor. Maybe it is adjusted with a bit too much zeal - that is, if it is adjustable at all.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
After attending an opera, Yogi mentioned that he liked it, and added, "Even the music was nice."
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Someone on Turbobricks mentioned that too. I disconnected it with no difference and it doesn't look like there is actually any adjustment. I do wonder though, how the valve operates. Was disconnecting it enough to check it?
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Was disconnecting it enough to check it?
I would certainly think so. And since you've been down that route, you surely have tried idling with and without the AC, but wonder what the AC tech did to get your car to keep from stalling when getting the system cool. Did he grab the little black bypass knob? What else have you done so far, other than ask on TB?
PS, I note you've posted about disabling the air pump. Is the vacuum for the diverter valve plugged? More to the point of the recent disturbance, did the EGR vacuum get disassembled to give the AC tech room to operate, and put together wrong?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Yogi used to work with the Yoo-Hoo soft drink company. A woman once called and asked if Yoo-Hoo was hyphenated. Yogi said, "No, ma'am, it's not even carbonated."
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Unfortunately, the a/c still doesn't work. I need a new compressor and opted not to have the a/c place WAY overcharge me for it. I'll do it myself if I really want to.
That said, the compressor still turns on - there is no difference in idle on/off.
I have no clue what they did when they were checking it, sadly. My wife dropped it off and brought it home.
Where is the diverter valve? I took the belt off of the air pump awhile ago, but left everything else hooked up until I can get the car in the garage to catch up on the work it needs (at which point I will take it off). After the crazy high idle, I took off the hose going from the intake manifold to the airpump and plugged the nipple on the intake. Needless to say, that did nothing, but it made one less chance of a leak.
I don't notice anything put together wrong, and everything is pretty out in the open- I'm not sure why they would need to disassemble anything.
The only thing I knew to do (since I've never had an issue with this car(!)) is check the valve and for vac leaks. When I got it, the valve was stuck and there were a bunch of leaks. It idled high then too.
Now, the only hose that seems to make a different is the one going to the flametrap (on the valve cover). If I plug the hole in the intake for that hose, the idle will slow down but a branch of that hose goes to the airbox, so it would never BE in a closed loop. Right?
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I agree with you on the vacuum for the flame trap, but wonder if the hose is on the right nipple. I think that orifice should be small enough not to contribute bunches to unmeasured air at 2000 rpm.
Also I looked over the TB thread for more clues - there are - and come back to the idea it may be helpful to check the hoses are where they belong. Go to http://k-jet.org and look through the green book TP 30727 on emission controls. I have that manual (my earliest k-jet is 79) and it shows air injection and egr for both 49-state and Cali in 76, but differing ways to provide the signal to the EGR diaphragm valve.
I know this was a confusing array of tubing on my 79, enough so I made this drawing to supplement my usual photos. I can picture an AC guy looking at this vacuum amplifier and scratching his head like I did mine. Anyhow, that green book shows the diverter valve, which probably isn't the problem if all you did was slip the belt off the air pump.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Because it gets late early. Yogi Berra, on why it's so tough to play left field in Yankee stadium.
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I don't think there is a way for the flame trap hose to be on anything BUT the right nipple. It is one of only two(?) of that size.
I need to go pick up some wheels that I bought on CL (in my wife's 240), but later tonight or tomorrow I'll check the routing carefully. I'll see if I can get some pics as well. Maybe I am missing something obvious.
My car doesn't have egr, btw. It does have a vacuum amplifier, but it is on the valve cover and driven by the cam.
The diverter valve is what I thought it was- on the pump and now has nothing going to it. It didn't make a difference either way.
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Is there a relatively easy way to check the idle screw setting. On second look, *maybe* there was a wrench on it recently...
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Look closely at both ends of both hoses attached to the Aux Air Valve. One end is hard to see, as I recall, and can be knocked loose.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Good call Bruce. That would explain why there was absolutely no effect when he pinched the "idle valve" hose over there on Turbo Bricks.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
New York mayor Lindsay's wife, on a hot day: "You look nice and cool, Yogi." Yogi: "You don't look so hot yourself."
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Thanks Art. I think I got bit on those hidden ends once on Ted's '76.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Have you checked the bellows above the fuel distributor for cracks or loosness.
Phil
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I don't think there is a way for the flame trap hose to be on anything BUT the right nipple. It is one of only two(?) of that size.
OK, but you know I am not speaking of the large hoses at the valve cover and airbox, but the vacuum source, a very small orifice at the manifold - you know, the one that gets clogged. That is what you'd be plugging to stop the air, and it just should not make that big of a difference. The correct nipple can't draw in enough air to raise the rpm by 1500.
My car doesn't have egr, btw. It does have a vacuum amplifier, but it is on the valve cover and driven by the cam.
The vacuum amplifier is the black plastic box with multiple hoses, sampling intake vacuum on either side of the venturi on the intake hose. The contraption on the cam cover is a vacuum pump to supplement the brake booster. The book says 76 has air and egr, but frankly, I know a car that old may have had many owners who try to simplify things, removing all that "clean air" nonsense. I have some pics showing this to the extreme! So yes, a photo of your engine bay might be in order.
Is there a relatively easy way to check the idle screw setting. Yes, this is just too easy: Turn it gently clockwise until it bottoms. If the idle disappears and the motor dies, well, you know what to do. If no effect, then you'll be looking elsewhere for the air this engine is breathing.
The vacuum amplifier is just under the blue negative battery cables in this photo. The arrow is there for another situation, to point out the rubber connector between the air fuel unit and throttle body that sometimes gets dislodged by a back fire.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"I am going to buy a Volkswagen or a foreign car."
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Wow- that one makes my engine bay look even more nasty than it actually is...
I think we are talking about the same flame trap hose. Mine is just like on the car above- there is a big hose going to the airbox and a smaller one going to the intake. The smaller one is still bigger than the other two hoses on that side of my intake though. It is maybe 4-5mm instead of 1-2mm. Again though, it looks like the pic (except dirtier).
So my car definitely does not have egr then. I can't imagine that it was ever taken off- I bought the car from the original owner. It was a lady and this was her first new car. Either way though, it hasn't had it since I've had the car.
As far as I can tell, the rubber piece between the fuel dist and the throttle body is fine. Both hoses seem to be securely attached to the air valve as well.
I will check the idle screw and upload pics as soon as I can...
Btw, THANK YOU for helping me attempt to figure this out! If nothing else, at least I will learn a little more about this car.
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And one more.
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I've looked over the pictures and they are nice shots of the hoses.
Then I thought about. Where is the one for the brake booster. How does it come in. It may be there but I lost it.
Do we know that the brake booster is holding vacuum?
Try pinching it off or disconnecting it entirely.
Phil
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From the other side:
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I've never uploaded pics here, so hopefully this'll work.
If it does, this should show the connections on the engine side of the manifold. The capped one is the one that went to the diverter valve.
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Now, the only hose that seems to make a different is the one going to the flametrap (on the valve cover). If I plug the hole in the intake for that hose, the idle will slow down but a branch of that hose goes to the airbox, so it would never BE in a closed loop. Right?
My fault. I had taken your "slow down" comment to mean it came to a reasonable idle, but you may have just meant it dropped just a tad, which is expected behavior if you close off the source of vacuum for the crankcase ventilation.
I'd still like to see a shot from a little further back, showing from airbox to firewall. Do you have a flash? Hoses don't reflect a lot of natural light.
And, answers to lucid's and sdewolfe's questions too. What happened when you adjusted the idle air bypass (black knurled knob)? If you're afraid to mess things up, just count turns to be sure that item gets put back where it was.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Mantle can hit just as good right-handed as he can left-handed. He's just naturally amphibious."
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Howdy,
I haven't been next to a computer much this week. I saw this yesterday or the day before but couldn't take the time to read it then and I saw you were getting the best help available anyway.
I did read it this morning. It appears you have been over the intake tubes and vacuum hoses pretty thoroughly!
You have only reported fast idle as a symptom. I am pretty sure that excess air that does not open the sensor plate is going to cause more than just fast idle. You should have hunting idle, lean bog, surge, or other odd behavior. Does it start easily cold or hot? Just fast idle?
Over at Turbobricks boosted12a asked, ... all seriosness, have you checked your throttle plate to make sure its closing all the way?
To which you replied, I haven't checked the throttle plate.
Have you done that by now?
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 53 year old fat man. ;-)
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Ok- sorry about the few days of no information. The weekend turned out to be busier than expected.
To answer the questions that I know I haven't yet:
-no, I completely forgot to check the throttle plate after I originally tried (I tried to do it without enough time and without moving the fuel distributor - fail). I will do that today, though I am not exactly sure wht I am looking for...
-I will also get a full shot of the engine bay today
-the brake booster hose is there, coming from the vac pump on the valve cover, iirc. pinching it has no effect
-the throttle screw is screwed just about all the way in and the tab on the throttle spool is against the bracket. there seems to be no way for it to get any more closed
-the black screw has an effect, but I haven't messed with it much because I don't know what I'm doing with it. tips?
-also, I noticed today after three days of the car sitting in the garage, that when started cold, it idles just a tad high (~1200) for a few minutes. it takes awhile to go up.
thanks guys
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I have been looking over the photos and frankly. You have got me confused.
I have a '78 which is a Ca. car and it doesn't have any of the stuff yours has. No pumps, EGR's. Nothing. A cat and the new unleaded gas tank fitting. Where did yours come from. The back lot of MGM?
I have the green books for my my car. The pictures in it are not exactly mine. So, if I ever tear mine down, I will take pictures.
I see older stuff in their photos like vacuum pumps and air pumps with diverter valve mounted directly behind it down low. A vacuum pmump is shown up on the valve cover? In another picture they show the valve coverwithout it. A raised boss with a hole in it. It's where the pump would be mounted. Like there may have to have a gasket for it to connect up the crankcase?
You have a lot of stuff rearranged just from the photos. Then Volvo did the things short term in mid run on theirs car. Big reputation for it!
I wonder since you have removed so many things. That you may have pulled a bolt to a brace or part that plugs a hole in the manifold? Since it seems you can't find a hose off.
You might have to take up smoking and blow it across this thing and see if you can find out where it goes in. Take the fan belt and try it. All you got to lose is lung capacity?
If you still can't find it. You are going to have to pull off your under shorts when you do find it. Cause you are gonna know you got a BIG bite under them!
Phil
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Take a look at lucid's suggestion - that the hose from the auxiliary air valve (AAV) came off its connection under the intake manifold, where it is hard to see.
-the black screw has an effect, but I haven't messed with it much because I don't know what I'm doing with it. tips?
The black idle screw sets "base" idle, meaning it bypasses the throttle plate with enough air to keep the motor running (idling) at the auxiliary air valve's most closed attitude. You should be able to shut down the motor with that control all the way in, especially if the throttle plate adjustment is against the bracket as you report. Lucid's suggestion is a perfect match for your symptoms. Look at that hose under the manifold.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Children seldom misquote you. In fact, they usually repeat word for word what you shouldn't have said.
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Ok, while I was dealing with this, I took off the air pump. Now I'll need something to plug the hole at the exhaust mani.
I just rechecked the AAV hoses. They are attached and in good shape. The AAV is open a tiny bit, as it should be (I think) when the car is stone cold.
I also looked over everything else in the engine compartment. Everything looks to be as it was before I had this problem. The injectors need o-rings, I'm sure, and I guess I'll replace them too but I find it hard to believe that they just started really affecting the idle overnight. And the idle is really stable at 25-2600...
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Well, I have pics ready, but it does no good if my wife has both of the download cables at work with her...
I checked the AAV hoses right away- they are there and in relatively good shape. When I put the car back together though, I'll give them another shot.
Right now, the rubber piece between the fuel distributor and the throttle body is off. As I said before, I'm not quite sure what I am looking for, but the plate looks centered and closed.
Machine man- I'm not sure I follow exactly what you are saying, but as far as I know (and can tell) my car is as it came from the factory with one exception: my air pump's bearings went, so I took the belt off of it. Just recently, I also removed and capped the hose from the intake manifold to the diverter valve.
The car was originally from Florida, bought new in '76 and taken to DC where is stayed until '07. I bought it from the original owner who listed it for sale after owning it for 30yrs. She replaced it with a new Mercedes s-class...
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I didn't mean anything bad about your car.
Here is what I meant about MGM. It has been noted on the board that in the movies we see Volvo's that are different. It suspected that there are cars that were used to experiment with various features. Safety or otherwise.
They can't offer them for sale to the public so they are donated to corporations that can use them off road purposes so to speak. They get sort of double right off. One for research and one as subliminal advertising.
I'm glad you are looking over the rubber bellows. If it didn't have any cracks and wasn't loose it is probably alright.
I was wanting you to go this far. Then I would go where I'm going now.
Since you have that out way. You can look back towards the fuel pressure regulator. It sets to one side and has a line to it from the fuel distributor that the vane operates. That vane should float up and down lightly with out sticking. Unless it's really heavily with gunk they are very reliable.
I would check the electrical connection for good wiring and corrosion. There is a heater in there that drops off fuel pressure as it warms up. Mimicking the engine warm up time.
There is also in the block a thermal time out switch that take this and the auxiliary air valve out of the start up/warm up loop.
I cannot see your auxiliary air valve to know if it is the same as on my '78. It has a heater that does the same thing. Mimics the warm up time.
On mine when you look through the valve. You see a sliding flap or door that blocks the passage. When cool or cold? It will be partially open. About three millimeters. I set with a twist drill shank.
This is done by loosening the little nut just a little so the screw can wiggle. This shifts the spring or heater tension on the flap until you can just drag it out. This is only a ball park setting.
Working back and forth with the basic idle speed. That is set by the throttle plate and idle mixture black screw for hot idle. You tweak the auxiliary air valve to achieve the fast cold idle of 1200 to 1500 RPM on the average to coldest day.
In a half minute or so on average. The idle should start dropping off down to 700 to 900 rpm hot idle that you are comfortable with.
Hope this helps. So you may not have as big a bite as I thought you would.
I just read your post about injector seals. You can try some WD-40 and see if it sucks in around them when the engine is running.
Phil
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No worries- I just wasn't sure *what* you meant.
The rubber bellows looks great.
The wiring looks ok and is all tight.
My AAV works as you described. It was open a bit and after running for a minute or two was completly closed... with no change in idle.
Screwing in the black knob ALL THE WAY almost got the car to a low enough idle speed.
Spraying WD-40 on the injectors gives no change at all. It isn't even sucked in (I can see it puddle there) so I guess the o-rings aren't as bad as I thought.
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and pic of fuel dist:
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I'm sure glad you posted this picture. I don't know who wanted but good idea for this old boy! It hit me like a brick in the head.
I have three LH's and only one CIS. My brain slipped into the LH's.
Scratch all that about the setting the bore you would have to use a mirror. I guess you could try to see if the bore is closed if you used the method. Some how air is getting in there.
I went out and refreshed my eyes on my car. I forgot the A/C solenoid too. May be it's leaking by or the gasket is bad behind it. Doubtful if its never been touched.
If your not finding how the air is getting to the engine. I'm afraid you have a overpowering leak caused by a warped/cracked manifold or a split dried out gasket.
You have the same components I have on my '78 except for that gadget on the valve cover and the air pump. You don't have power steering. The fuel distributor looks great.
I don't know. If you plug off everything going in you should find it.
Phil
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Hi Phil,
I can be blamed for requesting the wide angle view of the engine compartment. I was interested in zeroing in on the EGR valve the green books insist lurks inside the 76 of both 49-state and California cars, but not on those built for the Canadian market. I don't suspect it's a Canadian build, because of the AIR system. But it is too dark in there.
You're right, the air is getting in. I didn't think about the intake manifold gasket, even though that has happened to me, with slightly different symptoms on a much later type of car.
Hard to say where the air is getting in, but the black knob is reportedly having an effect - I just don't know how to read Erik's description of its effectiveness. He's trying to find the one thing that changed during the AC work, and has so far eliminated most of what I would jump to after having an AC person in there, such as the compensation solenoid. 2500 rpm is one heck of a lot of idle air.
BTW, I don't know if he has a throttle switch. I think the microswitch was a California feature in 77, but I don't know what the switch would do on the 76.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
When I die, I want to die like my grandfather-- in his sleep. Not screaming like all the passengers in his car."
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I can see why you may be interested in the EGR if it had one. That would put exhaust back to the intake.
They called the thing on the valve cover a vacuum pump in my books. Why? Vacuum wipers? Does the engine ever Diesel? Kidding again.
The air pump should only go into the exhaust pipe. Solution to pollution is dilution in those days!
I suggested that the A/C man could have set the idle up for charging faster. That may suggest the stop screw reset.
I suggested checking the throttle plate in the bore too. I realized with the pictures that I was thinking LH. This one is upside down.
My car does not have the switch either. There is no need for one on these early cars. Since I got my head straight towards CIS.
Does this car have a frequency valve?
What if it didn't pulse the fuel. Would it run more rich? I was thinking earlier about the FPR. Its heater and such. If it gets more air it should have to have more fuel. If it ran to lean it might race and miss. To rich it would smell in the exhaust and could backfire too?
Excessive fuel pressure? Restricted return line to the tank!
You might try to blow out that line. Look for soft collapsed rubber lines in the engine area or above the tank. Along the frame in case a lift or rock dented a steel one!
Does it have a buzz when running? It's different for people. They sit down!Ah!
If it has the frequency valve? It should be in route to the fuel distributor. Mine is mounted in front of the brake booster.
My car has a relay for its circuit and the 0-2 sensor circuit. Then again it has Lambda Sond. Which probably did away with all the other garbage.
The Air Auxiliary Valve connect directly onto the A/C solenoid manifold. I suggested the gasket under it went bad and how rare that maybe!
That was my next best air source. Next to the whole intake manifold.
I know, I would run this engine and while it was. I would put my foot up its....intake! I would stuff a rag in it! Dare it to keep running to fast!
I heard once a guy shot his lawnmower right in the carburetor. Don't know if it wouldn't start or stop.
Are these engines or owners possibly related? Or possessed?
You can tell I've run out of ideas.
We'll keep trying
Phil
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Hey Phil,
I can see why you may be interested in the EGR if it had one. That would put exhaust back to the intake.
Mainly I wanted to match up what we are working on with the books.
Not so much concerned about exhaust getting in, but that the EGR piping is fragile after 33 years, and the valve may be stuck too, allowing fresh air a path in. It is the sort of thing that could have been knocked apart while doing hose and dryer replacement. I'm probably way off here, because someone would have had to plug the exhaust side to keep it from making a lot of noise, or the break would have to be at the large pipe on the intake side of the valve - less likely.
There's no lambda sond and thus no frequency valve here. If the rpm wasn't described so high, I'd believe it could be a WUR clogged, but it takes air to burn fuel at that rate.
On my proportional EGR car, there is a vacuum operated valve between the AAV and the large port on the TB - in series with the AAV flow - used to compensate for AC load. I was hoping that hose (where my AC valve is) was the culprit as lucid predicted, because on my car that was split when I got it. I ordered a replacement molded hose from Volvo and needed to trim the length to accommodate the AC compensation valve's insertion. The OP's 76 uses an electric solenoid at the TB, so that hose I bought would fit all the way to the TB from the AAV. It was just such a perfect answer. Now I have nothing on that scale to offer.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Never put both feet in your mouth at the same time, because then you won't have a leg to stand on.
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I agree with everything you got on the table.
I put the last of all that I could think of. I added some funnies that might have to be considered as serious suggestions.
The only things we are missing are ourselves standing there!
I know this would not beat me down if it were my car. If I thought it was going to. I would see its headlights looking back at me from the deep end of a crusher.
I heard this happened to a owner of a expensive hand built Italian sports car. It was a real sour lemon of a car, he was trading in as a clunker. He demanded to see it destroyed personally in front of him. Despite the participating dealer pleading with him to let him run it through wholesale auction and resell it for over $12,000. He did not want another person to spend another nickle on that car.
That's being rich with money and hate!
Glad we are only frustrated with something on a lesser scale.
Phil
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I don't have a throttle switch. This is why I am dumbfounded! I've had a car with CIS ('83 GTI) and many with LH2.2/4 (Volvos) - this has almost nothing to it, yet I am still somehow missing something.
At this point, I can't limit the problem to something the a/c guy might have done. I'll take any ideas. I checked the intake as best I could when the problem first started. Using a sort of stethoscope I couldn't hear any obvious leaks (and I'd think this one would be obvious). When I was spraying around the injectors yesterday I tried spraying a bit of wd-40 around the intake gasket too - no effect.
I'm at a loss, so if I need to clear anything up, just let me know. That said, sorry about thie pics - that was as much light as I could get. I am using an iphone (no flash) because my wife almost always takes the other camera for work.
Is there something that could cause this behaviour other than an air leak?
Thanks for your patience!
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Is there something that could cause this behaviour other than an air leak?
I don't think so. But it all depends on how we agree to define a lot of terms, such as how fast the motor runs with the black idle screw all the way in. What you seem to be describing is an idle speed that would require a very high volume of air bypassing the throttle plate. No two ways about it, air is required for that, not just fuel alone.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Mistakes are the portals of discovery. -James Joyce
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Complete engine pic, as requested:
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That all sounds good. At least it is responding to the idle mixture screw which works on the same principle as the Auxiliary Air Valve.
Now I'm stiring the thoughts that something isn't right about that throttle body. A bad gasket behind it.
The plate is open slightly by several things.
You ruled out the cable.
Off centered plate in the bore. Worn shafts holding it but I haven't seen it.
The throttle position switch not adjusted correctly and its holding it open. I know you checked the stop screw but it really shouldn't hold anything open either. It there more to stop the bore plate from getting jammed stuck in the bore under rapid release of the pedal with the springs pulling it shut.
I'll try to explain what kind of fit you want in there.
Let's say you take a piece of writing paper. Cut it 1/8 inch wide by about 3 inches long. Lay it in the bottom of the bore. Let the plate rest on until tight. Then you know the bore is closed.
Now screw the stop screw up and push on the throttle till you can drag the paper out. That's drag it out. You should feel a slight drag or less. No need to tear the paper. This will open the bore enough to make air cut across the other tiny ports to the other required lines and good vacuum in the manifold.
Overall you are going to find out that this is a "by the seat of your shorts or pants" mechanic's technique.
You know, those guy's with gray hair and missing teeth. That they talk about on CAR TALK! I write more, than I smile!
After that you set the switch until it clicks closed and then clicks again when you open the throttle. As the plate move open you hear the click. If you can put a ohmmeter on the terminals this will confirm a good switch and the adjustment at the same time. Make sure the connector terminals are clean and make connection to the switches terminals.
Barring any other leaks past the throttle. It may not idle when warm and you will have to back open the black screw to get to run. When cold it might get enough air to run through the Aux. Air Valve depending how it's set. You adjust your cold idle with thw AAV and the hot idle with the mixture screw.
When all else is shut down to the minimum. One system is dynamic (electric heater controlled) and the other is a static setting.
I suspect it was the static one that has set up the racing engine. It change on its own or it had help. When it was something else in the mix doing what ever it was doing then!
By any chance did you check the heating element in the fuel regulator for resistance or continuity?
I know you will get this under control. Because you are out there hugging this BABY!
Keep in touch
Phil
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Sometimes a short in the wire harness results in K-jet runaway idle. Move every wire you can find in the engine bay to see if you get an effect. I had this problem in an 85 244Ti, for what its worth. Other than that, I would have a good look at the CIS settings and components.
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I'll check the wires just in case the a/c place screwed something up - I didn't see anything while looking around though.
This car doesn't have CIS. There is hardly anything to go wrong!
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I has to be getting too much air than it was set for.
I would be suspicious that he may have reset the idle stop screw. Which over rides the idle mixture black knob. Which over rides the A/C solenoid.
In other words if its not a air leak. It maybe Mr. Fiddling Thumbs and Fingers. So he could charge the system with out holding the throttle open.
I use a popsicle stick under the screw stop.
Also there is a vacuum line going down to the evaporative canister. It runs by the compressor fittings and fender harness clips. That could have a crack or got bent enough to crack it. Giving you a leak.
Phil
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The idle set screw appears to be where it has been for years. It would be less crusty if it had been moved. I don't know about the black knob though.
I plugged that vac line and got no difference.
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I'm not aware of K-jet without constant idle. What sort of management is involved?
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This is the first year of the b21. It is pretty simple! No lambda sond, no CIS, no nuthin'.
Check it out: http://www.k-jet.org/articles/information/k-jet-in-detail/
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