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Hello folk,
I have looked around the board and I can't find any information on
installing gauges..ie: oil temp, oil pressure, and volt gauges.
Is there a spot that gives details on installing gauges where there
were none.
Thanks for any assistance,
Joseph Segura
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No spot that know but it not hard just time. You can move the radio to the lower position and you can add 5 gauges. Greg
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Hi Joseph,
Is there a spot that gives details on installing gauges where there were none.
I've never seen any such spot. Too many variables in the 200-ALL category. For instance, I have some stuff on gauges for the 75-80 240's. Others have pulled Turbo gauge pods and put them in n/a cars. Any gauges will fit the two empty places you might have just to the right of the cluster.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Most people work hard enough not to get fired and get paid just enough not to quit." -- George Carlin
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Good Morning Art,
Thanks for the reply.
I am looking for information on the wiring set-up for
oil temp, oil pressure and volt gauges.
I am not sure where the wires would go in the engine compartment.
I guess I could go to any gauge website and the wiring
set-up will be simular?
Thanks for helping,
Joseph
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Well, I am not sure how much help that would be. You kind of get the basic principle when you do one. First thing, if you are going to move the radio, you need the big storage box format of the center frame and facia. Some cars came with a shallow storage box due to the radio related apparatus found behind the box. So you need the frame and box from an 86-90 or so, big box. As for gauges, "G" is always the wire to the sender, "+" goes to a right side fuse panel connector, and you have to select your fuses for power off when ignition off. Ground is the big screw on the center console where several grounds are installed. Oil pressure and oil temp senders are required, none needed for volts.
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It started with a single non-working small clock (repaired using Art's write up) and a PUP large tach. Then it was a beat up voltmeter found down at the PUP and an ebay 5 bar oil pressure gauge that replaced the small clock (went jerky after a few months). Now I have four brand new VDO gauges lined up across the top of the dash and possibly a minor addiction (just one more is all I really need).
The line up includes a 80 PSI oil pressure gauge (10 ohm sending unit, same as the 5 bar), Voltmeter (which as been watched way too much lately), transmission oil temp (fahrenheit) for towing, and an Outside Temp gauge in fahrenheit. Put the very accurate but badly illuminated repaired small clock in the lower spot.
If you purchase new VDO gauges, the directions are the box. Not hard at all, does require fishing a wire through the firewall and the right sending unit and matching adapter bushing. Posting the year and type of sending unit is going to yield the most accurate information when you get ready to do the install.
The VDO manufactured Volvo 5 Bar requires a 10 ohm dual sending unit if the go the old gauge route. The VDO PSI version you can get new is 80 PSI and you can get that in both 10 ohm and 33 ohm sending units.
The factory gauges are 2 1/8 and any VDO gauge of the same diameter will fit a 240. You will need to find the bezel and the three feet for the two side locations. If you want to install five gauges, you will need the bracket and three hole bezel out of an old turbo that has passed to Valhalla.
egauges.com is a good place to look to see new gauges and just about any sending units for old ones. The VDO Vision series comes the closest to matching the factory gauges IMOH.
Old gauges are retro and a purist will insist on going that route (and a good choice). New are about the same price as what you find on ebay, and they are new (not 20+ years of capacitors drying out). The illumination is greatly improved over the older factory ones. The Metric gauges in new are double the price of SAE units. You could buy SAE and then put on the white face metric gauge faces and no one would ever know.
You can find lesser selection of gauges from Summit Racing, they take Paypal is really the only upside for using them.
From what I have read on the BB the oil temperature gauge is a PITA to get installed without the modified oil pan. You have clearance issues apparently if you go the drain plug route. I do have the drain plug sending unit for the transmission oil temp. That unit does not have clearance issues, but you do have 12 volts on the wire.
Decide what you want to install, where you want to put it and then post your year and we can give you the final details how how do it, and what you want to avoid.
Good Luck,
Paul
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Hello Paul,
You do know you gauges....
I want to install gauges in a 83 240.
The radio is already on the bottom box.
I have a turbo three gauge holder.
I have a small clock in the gauge holder left of
where the turbo gauge holder will go.
I want to install a
Oil Temperature Gauge, a Oil Pressure Gauge and a Volt Gauge.
I have all three gauges but I am not sure about the wiring.
Any and all help and assistance is appreciated,
Joseph Segura in New Mexico
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Do you have the dual sending unit from the donor car?
If not you want to get that on order first.
You need a roll of Green, Blue, Brown, and Black 22 gauge wire. A good supply of red and blue spade lugs, and I use heat shrink tubing out of a reflex from a past life where I work. You will also need a couple of blue or yellow ring crimp connectors depending on how many grounds you plan to run.
This is from the memory bank and in a hurry, the book with all of this is out in back of Inga.
The VOM is easy, the bulb - and the ground (black) go over to the center console ground. The other side of the bulb (Brown) ties into one of the brown wires on any of the bulbs in the center console. You want to get the higher wattage bulbs to be able to see anything by the way. I use 1.2 watt at least for those I think. Egauge sells the bulbs and the connectors if you did get the little harness. The V+ (blue)wire gets run over to the fuse box and to the switched voltage fuses. Not sure where Volvo suggested on an 83.
Yes you can daisy chain the grounds (Black), switched power (Blue),and the light voltage (Brown)_from gauge to gauge. Take your time and use good crimps with the right size spade lugs for two wires (blue will work unless you are using large diameter wire). You will not be sharing a green wire with anything but the gauge it goes to by the way. Using the same color wire for the common wires takes the guess work out later.
Oil pressure gets the same ground (black)to the bulb and the meter ground. Brown goes to the other side of the bulb. A blue wire will go from the + wire over to fuse panel switched voltage. The Signal (green) wire has to be run out the passenger side firewall and down to where it can run across to the alternator. I tied it to the harness that already runs across. This wire will have 12 volts on it so use at least a 22 gauge. I would not go over 18 because there is voltage but not any current to speak of on the wire. The dual sending unit has a post that should be zero ohms to the chassis. That is where the black wire off the old sending unit will go. The other post on the terminal should have 10 ohms to chassis and that is where the new wire will connect. If you do have the old harness, the blue red wire is power, green is the sending unit signal, and gnd is black.
The oil temp sensor should wire up just like the transmission one. Same wires as the oil pressure gauge when it comes to ground and power. Also connects to switched power on the fuse box. It also has a signal wire that you fish out the passengers side and over the block. I will defer to someone who installed the sending unit on that one however. Have read some mixed reviews on that one.
Good Luck,
Paul
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Paul,
that was a mouth-full....thank you.
Joseph
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