Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 9/2011 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Replacing Timing Belt 200

I'm new to the Volvo world and don't have much mechanic experience. I have an 89 240DL Sedan and want to change the timing belt but don't have the 600.00 to pay my mechanic. Is this something I should attempt? I have a friend who does lots of his own repairs and he said he would hold my hand.

Also, I read something about a special tool needed. Is it possible to do it without the tool. thanks for all replies.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Replacing Timing Belt 200

    In addition to the fine advice offered I would add that you should find a new mechanic. His price is outrageous.
    --
    David Hunter








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Replacing Timing Belt 200

      That price includes new water pump . I trust this guy, he's never been wrong yet.








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Replacing Timing Belt 200

        If that price does include water pump and some other goodies, you're probably okay. It doesn't take long to rack up a bill that equals the market value of most 240s at the going rate of $90.00/hr around here. One of the best assets you've got locally would be a patient mechanic that knows these cars well. Good luck on your car and decision! And welcome to the 'board, too.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Replacing Timing Belt 200

    If you have an impact wrench, you will not need the special tool to hold the crank shaft.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Impact wrench on crank pulley bolt? 200 1989

      I definitely disagree, unless you're a pro and have done enough of these to be able to guess at proper retorquing. And you'd need an impact wrench short enough to fit without pulling the radiator.

      JKot...
      Rather than guess at anything, use the rope trick so you can retorque properly, and save blowing up to $50 on the special counter-hold tool.

      A 15/16" socket is close enough to 24mm for the crank pulley bolt.
      I need about 2 feet of cheater pipe on the breaker bar for 2-stage tightening:
      Stage I 44 ft lbs
      Stage II another 60° of tightening rotation

      For your first time in this area, I'd advise against trying to do everything possible (unless you see bad seal leaks). Concentrate on the t-belt and maybe the tensioner.

      --
      Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Impact wrench on crank pulley bolt? 200 1989

        I agree with Lucid about not attempting to do everything at once. I'd add however that you should do the accessory belts since they need to come off and back on again anyway. Might as well be putting new belts on there.

        And if you're a newbie and are intimidated by this whole "rope trick" thing, the counter holder tool is definitely worth it. Just promise yourself that you'll be driving your brick in another 50k miles, and you can use it again!

        Jesse








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Replacing Timing Belt 200

    There is a pretty good FAQ on this topic in the 700/900 FAQ section. The engine is the same:

    http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm#Changing_Timing_Belt_Procedures_for_B23_B230_Series_Engines








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Replacing Timing Belt 200

    I'm a Volvo newbie as well (though I've done a bit of tinkering on old Saabs).

    You should definitely do this repair. It's pretty easy and rewarding.

    You should however have the right tools and you should know where to get the correct parts.

    Tools:
    -Bentley Manual for 240 - The bible of Volvo 240 repairs. Will give you step-by-step instructions. Check Amazon.

    -Torque wrench.

    -Some kind of larger wrench/breaker bar to loosen the cam shaft nut.

    -A 24mm socket for the cam shaft nut (these are slightly uncommon, but check Sears).

    -Cam holder tool. This is ~$39. Check Eeuroparts.com (alternative is rope trick - do search on this board).

    -A set of metric socket wrenches.



    You can find most of what you need at Eeuroparts, FCP Groton, of ipdusa.com.
    As Benski said, you should just order the tensioner if you don't know how old it is. It's easy to replace. You should also do the accessory belts - you need to remove them anyway to get to the timing belt.

    Good luck. It's fun and easy. Will probably take you 4-5 hours. You'll feel more like a shadetree mechanic when you're done. :-)

    Also look up the "flametrap" and order that and replace it as well, since you probably don't know how old it is.

    Jesse
    '88 245DL, m47, 175k miles.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Replacing Timing Belt 200

    You've come to the right place. This is a fairly simple job, if a bit time consuming the first time in. You can search timing belt replacement and "rope trick" here and get a plethora of answers. You and your friend can then judge if you are up to the task. I would recommend the following possible additions to replacing the belt as long as you are in there cleaning up the mess.
    1. New timing belt tensioner. If is anything less than perfect, change it out. Less than perfect is any roughness or noise when it is spun, any side to side play in the bearing, or anything that will lead you to believe you will not have to get back into it in another 50k mi. They are cheap enough at about $45.00 to just do as a matter of course. IPDUSA (ipdusa.com)sells complete kits that have all the jazz I'm alluding to here.
    2. Seals for the cam, crank, and layshaft.
    3. New water pump, belts, and hoses, and hose clamps.Obviously change out your coolant at this time. Green stuff is fine.
    4. Check your accessory bushings for oil contamination, and change them out if they are looking suspect.My personal favorite is poly bushings, but they come at a premium price.
    5. Make sure that your crankshaft pulley is in good shape. If I recall, these have a rubber section in them which can give up the ghost. You'll have a chance to inspect it when you are changing out the crank seal.
    8. Good luck, we'll talk soon, I'm sure.
    6. Check your fan clutch for worn out bearings or any looseness while you've got it off the car as well.
    7. Write down on a place that is visible inside the engine compartment when the next belt change is due, and smile that it is a long way away when you are done.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Replacing Timing Belt 200

      Thanks alot. I appreciate the advice.








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Replacing Timing Belt 200

        You bet. Jesse's right about the flame trap as well. I would recommend stepping up to the plate and getting a Volvo factory flame trap, as the aftermarket ones fail all too soon. Tasca Volvo is a great source.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.