I have the above mentioned car with the abs breaking system. I just changed all four rotors and installed new pads all the way around. I went and blead the breaks according to the Bently service manual, and while they work, they do not seem as responcive as my original breakes which were whore out. Also, while the pedel does not go all the way to the floor, it seems like when I'm stopped and push down as hard as I can, their is a slight click in the system. I'm lost at this point. Any advice before I bring it in the shop and ask for a bailout?lol

Did you spray the heck out of the new rotors with brake cleaner to remove all of the shipping oil?

Also, new pads+new rotors means it'll take a good while (2000 miles?) to bed everything in. The pads and rotors are both wearing to match each other, and until then, you can have less braking power.
There's usually a bedding-in procedure to do too, like braking from 30 mph to 5mph without stopping 5-10 times before driving in traffic.

Good Luck,
Will
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

You need to bleed with the engine running.... The ABS unit "knows" when the engine is on from the voltage regulator....

Did you crack open the bleeder nipples when you pressed the caliper pistons back in? Not doing so has killed MC's in the past.

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

"You need to bleed with the engine running....

That's a new one on me. The Volvo 700/900 Brake manual doesn't say that. And I've done 4 or 5 ABS system bleed/flush operations (engine off) with good results.

The only specific ABS bleeding instructions for '88 and later models says:
"Bleed one rear wheel, second rear wheel and front wheels in that order."

There is also a note saying: "ABS systems take longer to bleed than conventional systems." but no explanation as to why. I didn't notice any great difference, but it had been years between conventional and ABS for me.

I believe the alternator D+ to ABS brain connection is to make sure the engine is up and running before allowing ABS operation, similar to the way the climate control CU is delayed.


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I should rephrase, if the system is dry, apparently a running engine makes a world of difference. If the system is just being flushed, it doesn't make any difference what you do. :-)

When I changed the rubber lines on the ABS 740, a simple pressure bleed pushed the air out of the new hose.

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

Every time I have had soft pedal the problem has been a defective caliper. Can you push the caliper pistons back on each caliper without any trouble?

Good luck!