Volvo RWD 444-544 Forum

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Calling JohnMc and anyone else ( mag and tire size ) 444-544

I`m wondering what size Torq Thrust wheels you are running and what size tires ? Also are there any clearance issues . I have a 63 544 , 120 front disc conversion with shock relocation . If I remember a while back you mentioned possibly going to a 16 inch wheel . If anyone else could help with good experience on this I would greatly appreciate it . I already have 5 brand new 165 r 15 EURO tires mounted on stock wheels but would like to use the four brand new 195 65 r 15 BF Goodrich T/A tires that I also have mounted on a really nice set of Lagunas that were for a 140 . I thought about wheel adapters to mount them on the 544 but one of the wheels is slightly bent . The Torq Thrust wheels look good on JohnMCs pv . Tough decision . I guess if the Lagunas would work with wheel adapters I could have all of them checked and straightend but am unsure of the cost of that . I paid 300.00 for the Lagunas with GB center caps while under the impression they were straight but found out not so . Thanks for any help . Larry








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    Calling JohnMc and anyone else ( mag and tire size ) 444-544

    So you are running the stock sway up front and IPD in the rear , right? Larry








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      Calling JohnMc and anyone else ( mag and tire size ) 444-544

      Bought the front and rear IPD bars.

      With the stock bar up front and the IPD bar in back it would be somewhat prone to oversteer. Maybe fun in certain situations, but not that great for everyday use.

      As a PS: Just recently I had to patch another ripped out sway bar mount. It was the 4th out of 4 that had ripped out. I rebuilt them stronger, I doubt it will happen again. But it is a lot mroe stress than the stock front bar applies to the frame. And in the rear, it just mounts in holes drilled through the pans under the rear seat. Those didn't last long at all.
      --
      '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t








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    Calling JohnMc and anyone else ( mag and tire size ) 444-544

    Thanks John for the input. Your car looks good with that combination . As for the IPD sways, did they take away very much from the smooth ride point of view? Larry








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      Calling JohnMc and anyone else ( mag and tire size ) 444-544

      Sway bars in general don't do much to the ride unless you are going around a corner. The wheel is free to move up and down, it just sort of adds a progressive spring rate effect to independent wheel movements.

      The car does feel steadier on the freeway now, with just the stock sway bar up front, it would sometimes sway or wobble when approaching or passing semi's as the tall flat sides got buffeted - doesn't do that any more.

      And prior - the cornering involved LOTS of lean and massive understeer. Now, very little lean and much more balanced over/understeer. Darn close to neutral, with just a hint of understeer. Does make that inside tire easier to spin leaving a corner though.
      --
      '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t








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    Calling JohnMc and anyone else ( mag and tire size ) 444-544

    The Torq Thrust II's I have are 15X6. There are lots of 4.5X5 bolt pattern wheels out there, since it was a very popular size for FoMoCo and Mopar cars through the 60's and early 70's, and still continues on some cars.

    However, from my (rather light) research, it seems like most 15X6 wheels have 3 3/4" back spacing, which is probably good for the Mustangs and Cargers they usually go onto. But that's a little too much for a PV's front suspension. For whatever reason, the Torq Thrust II in particular (and not the other American Racing Torq Thrust models) is made with a 3 3/8" backspacing, which fits.

    The clearance issues are:
    1) The outer tie rods up front - which sits inside the wheel rim. This effectively prevents you from using 14" wheels, or possible even 15" wheels if they have thick cast rims.

    2) The upper suspension pivot - whish sits next to the wheel rim - this limits how far inward the rim can reach. Much more than about 3.4" and you'll probably touch. It's vaguely possible that you could use a larger diameter rim that could go around that point (like the rim already does with the tie rod), but even then, moving the rim inwards from that point will reduce the turning circle. Also, assuming you want to be able to swap wheels front and rear, you might have clearance issues on the inner fender at the rear, I forget how snug that is.

    3) The rear fenders. Unless you've got rally car suspension, the wheels will need to fit inside the rear fenders. With the inner rim placement dictated by the front suspension, the outer rim placement gets limited by this. 6" rim width with about a 225 tire width is all that will fit (depends on the sidewall height and general bulk of the tire, of course, which varies from brand to brand and model to model). On mine I had to very lightly roll the lip on the fenders to stop the occasional squeak, just parked the car on a flat surface and rolled it back and forth with a 2" wooden dowel in between the tire and fender. The rears have a much less serious fender lip than later cars have, you only get a tiny it more clearance doing that.

    With wider tires, the front end will be a little more sensitve to alignment issues, I never noticed one of my kingpin carriers was bent until I put wider tires on it. But steering effort isn't that much higher, mostly at low speeds where it was already a little bit of an arm wrestling match. I occasionally ge a tiny bit of tramlining on lousy pavement. And the traction and control has cone up tremendously over my old skinny 185R15 Beetle tires on the stock wheels. With that and the IPD sways and the bilsteins, it handles like a modern sports sedan.
    --
    '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t







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