My daughter's "clunker-candidate" 740 is still leaving me stranded (I swapped my 86 'ole trusty no-rusty 740'). After a good hot-soak, hers will not crank until some time has passed and it has cooled down. I inserted a test-light into the pink terminal need the driver fender and current is passing to the keyed terminal on the starter, but still no-crank. This is the second starter,so 2 solenoids cannot be both bad (?).
I think it may be a bad ECU, but having no close U-Pull-it yards with a Regina 740 will delay this swap until I get up to San Antonio next month.
As a favor, could some Brickster Guru post a copy of the wiring diagram to the starting system of this 92 740 non-turbo Station Wagon with Regina/Rex system?
Thanks for any help.
el raidman

Just got stranded at HomeDept, but I used the time to look over stuff there. I have pulled out the connectors to the Neutral Safety Switch and rigged up a travelling test light. When a no-start occurs, I turn the key to #3 (start) and test for current. It seems that current is flowing from the NSS out to the solenoid (blue/green wire). Now I am suspecting the solenoid from this rebuilt Bosch starter...maybe the 'rebuilder' did not do such a good job. I'll replace it with a known good starter and see what happens.

"It seems that current is flowing from the NSS out to the solenoid (blue/green wire). Now I am suspecting the solenoid from this rebuilt Bosch starter...maybe the 'rebuilder' did not do such a good job."

With current at the NSS, it would have been good to also test at the "destination", terminal 50 at the solenoid.

You can test the solenoid with a jumper wire from battery + terminal to solenoid terminal 50. If no action, the starter is NG.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I suspect now that the connection at terminal 50 is loose...I squeezed it with pliers and added di-electric grease...seems to not have the slight hesitation before cranking that it used to have...will find out tomorrow more...right now my son and I are off to see "District 9"..SciFi movie.

I have the same mysterious intermittant NO CRANK problem.
I have the heavy starter wire boot off so all I need do is
short a screwdriver from the heavy starter terminal to the smaller
solenoid terminal and Zing it starts up immediately
(Especially after remembering to have the ignition switch in the run position)
Then it can run for a month without incident before failing again.

I've replaced the interlock switch and ignition sw with boneyard stuff.
I replaced and soldered the starter solenoid spade lug, and repaired
the funky add-on positive wire at the battery which likes to get loose.
and think at this time that it's likely a crappy ignition switch and I should
replace that critter with a new part.

Try starting the car by shorting the starter terminals, see if its the same
as my gremlin.

. I believe a bypass ( not using the ignition switch )to test the starter can be done by bridging from the hot wire connected to the starter to the solenoid. I dont know the physical layout of the starter "area " to say if this can be SAFELY done or is possible at all . I would have to take a closer look at mine. This procedure would quickly tell if the starter is ok or not.

Yes, you are correct, and I used this connector to test to see if current was flowing to the starter terminal from the key (and it was, as the test light glowed when I turned the key, but got no cranking).

Hey Raidman,



Sorry to hear your trouble... I sent you a .pdf attachment to your brickboard email address.


Regards, Jon 'Uncle Olaf'

Hello Uncle O:
It has not come through as of 2 minutes ago..was the address:
raidman47@hotmail.com ?
thanks,
el raidman

Hey Raidman,



Just sent it to that address... Hope it worked. The brickboard mail thingy just gives me that gibberish email address (bbanonxxx), so I didn't know where it was going.


Hope it helps,


Jon

Thanks,Jon:
Still not here...try this one:

genaro47@yahoo.com

sorry to be such a PITA, asking for it, but maybe third times the charm.
el raidman

Got it!! I'll print and take to automotive class on Tuesday. From a quick analysis, it seems the neutral safety switch is suspect even though I replaced it 3 weeks ago with a good pick N Pull one....maybe I got a dud?

Hey
Did you fix this problem ?

To test, you can jump the neutral safety switch - pink to blue wire in the switch.

Hey Raidman,




The 'new' used switch might have been a dud, or just wore out. Sometimes happens. Is it easy to temporarily jumper it?


Regards, Jon

Muchas gracias, mi Amigo!! I'll put it to good use at my college's technical school, as my buddy is the Automotive prof. He allows me to bring especially challenging problems (like this) so his students can play 'detective'. I'm usually present to lend a hand (torque specs, for example)between my classes.
My secret goal is to increase the pool of RWD Volvo mechanics in the world!!
el raidman