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Dear Fellow Brickboarders,
May this find you well. To ease water pump installation, I used:
(a) gasket cement to stick the gasket to the pump body
(b) Volvo brand seals and gasket
(c) a bottle jack - and a piece of wood, cut to fit - to lift the pump gently and so to compress evenly the top seal.
I lightly and evenly snugged all pump fasteners, before using the jack - very slowly - to raise the pump and to compress the top seal.
On the underside of the pump shaft housing, towards the base (closest to the engine block), there is a small rectangular "platform". Against this platform, I put the end of a board (19" long, 2 1/4" wide, and 3/4" thick; narrowed to 1" wide, 9 inches up from the bottom). Board length will vary according to the type of bottle jack used.
The 1" x 3/4" top cross-section of the board lets the board fit, so it is perpendicular to the pump shaft's axis. As the jack's piston rose, it lifted the pump straight up, by about 1/8". This compressed evenly, the top seal. The jack held the pump, while I tightened bolts and nuts. I used a lug-nut pattern - tightening opposing fasteners - to compress the gasket evenly.
The results: no leaks and no back strain.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Jay E.
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I have a question for you, since this is this weekend's entertainment(again). The last two times I did this job, I broke the backing plastic piece to the timing belt cover (the flat piece that mates to the front of the block) on both my bricks horsing it around to get at all the bolts to the water pump. Granted they were a little on the old/brittle side, but from what I remember it just didn't feel right bending it all over the place to get in there. This was the single biggest PIA of the job (besides getting the holes lined up with the seal compressed properly ;) )
I even tried a heat gun to make it more pliable, and still managed to break it. Is there some secret to bending it out of the way to get in there without destroying it?
'Scus my newbish question, but if you can help m out with a better way I would appreciate it.
Thanks, and don't ever leave...
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Dear Fleix_the_Cat,
May this find you well. The timing belt case back on my '94 940 was in pieces. The car lived in Texas and Florida for about eight years: heat took its toll.
I put in a Volvo replacement, which mated perfectly with the upper and lower front sections, also Volvo. I did not put on the timing case back, until the water pump had been put into place and secured.
I did not install the water pump pulley, until I had the timing belt completely installed. Once the water pump pulley is in place, it is very hard to get into place, the timing case covers.
Thus, the sequence was:
(a) install water pump and thermostat, and re-connect hoses
(b) remove cam and intermediate shaft sprockets (did not move camshaft at all)
(c) remove crankshaft sprocket (did not move crankshaft at all)
(d) remove broken timing belt case back
(e) clean area of debris and dirt
(f) inspect seals (they were not leaking)
(g) clean face of block (methyl ethyl ketone [highly flammable and toxic])
(h) install new timing belt case back
(h) reinstall cam, crankshaft, and intermediate shaft sprockets
(i) ensure belt guide washers' convex sides face each other = )|(
(j) install tensioner, seating it fully into block face
(k) install timing belt, positioning it on sprockets carefully
(l) release tensioner (by removing nail)
(m) install timing belt case lower section (two bolts, if I recall correctly)
(n) install harmonic balancer (using special tool and seating onto sprocket nub)
(o) torque crankshaft bolt to 43 pound/feet + 60° angle tighten
(p) install tensioner retaining washer and nut (torque to 37 pound/feet)
(q) install timing belt case upper section (three bolts and one screw)
(r) install water pump pulley (4 x 10mm bolts)
(s) install and tension drive belts
(t) tighten drive belt pivot bolts (power steering, alternator, and compressor)
(u) slack drive belt tensioner bolts
(v) start up, bring to operating temperature, and check for leaks (none found)
As this car has almost no corrosion, almost all bolts / nuts came free with minimal effort. It is a good idea to saturate water pump bolts with PB Blaster. Do this daily. PB Blaster will slowly work its way through micro-channels in the corrosion, which weakens any corrosion bond.
I replaced the teiming belt tensioner. I compressed the spring by putting the roller, shaft, and spring in a 6" bench vise. I used wood blocks to protect the roller and the shaft's end. It was easy to insert a nail, to retain the spring.
The only fastener that resisted was a thermostat housing nut. The stud unscrewed from the head. I coated the threads with nickel anti-seize compound, supposedly good up to 2,500°F, and re-installed it. No leaks from the thermostat housing.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Haha I'm such a dolt sometimes...
(n) install harmonic balancer (using special tool and seating onto sprocket nub)
obviously, if you have to install it, you have to remove it first. That never even occurred to me. Lol, that's so stupid.
Smarter than the av-ver-age bear!
Thanks, as always
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Dear Felix_the_Cat,
May this find you well. As the FAQs deal with this job in some detail, I only listed the steps following the removal of all items.
If you're going to re-use your harmonic balancer, be gentle with it. Do not hit the rim with any steel tool. Rather, tap gently with a plastic mallet or put a wood block in front of your hammer. The rubber insert - between the center and the outer rings, on which ride the drive belts - loses flexibility with time and heat. Whacking it with a hammer could cause it to fail quickly. Gently rocking the harmonic balancer, from side-to-side, also helps to free it.
If you wish, you can saturate the crank bolt with PB blaster. The special tool is one sold by FCP Groton and others. It fits into the openings in the harmonic balancer, and is secured to the timing belt tensioner stud. With this tool, it is easy to free the crank bolt. I used a 24"-long flex handle. The bolt came loose easily, and looked as good as it did when it was installed at the factory.
A couple of final hints. You can move the electric cooling fan out of the way, by removing the two Torx-20 screws at the top, and the 10mm hex nut that holds the wiring harness to the frame rail. Then, cover the inner surface of the radiator with a sheet of cardboard. That protects the delicate aluminum fins against damage, if a tool slips. It's a good idea to use compressed air (or water) to wash the radiator, from the inside out. It dislodges dust, that gets in they way of heat transfer.
Finally, when removing the radiator hoses from the radiator, be gentle. Plastic gets brittle with time and heat. If you twist or pull on the hoses, do so gently. Be patient: the hoses will come free with gentle persuasion.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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