I've got my '69 144 in Thomasville, NC and will be installing my freshened up cylinder head and a couple of new pistons this coming week. The plastic fan blade is badly warped and I'd like to replace it if possible. If anyone has one and is within a reasonable distance I'd come and pick it up. Please answer here or directly to my e-mail. -- Dave

Dave,

I just yesterday picked up two '70 144s (145 and 144). I know I have a broken fan in the pile of spares I got with these cars!

I'll be looking though 5-6 boxes of parts today and will let you know if I find one good fan.

If you're swinging by PA soon, you may stop by. I'll be driving the Escort at Weatherly HC this weekend, though.
--
"Don't understand why people abort Volvos, either."

Hey Don--Should you find one please get in touch with a message here on the BB or send me an e-mail directly. I'll be on the road again--NC--and will be heading back to Long Island sometime next week--day to be determined. This traveling back and forth can work out--I'll be dropping off a combo manifold needed by a 140 owner in VA on the way down. Meanwhile I did find I have a metal, 6 blade fan socked away but would prefer the plastic. As it is, the car is running on the cool side. Will you be running EMRA's time trial at Lime Rock--or Summit Point? -- Dave

I did think I've ever seen a plastic one. What's wrong with using the steel one with the viscous centre?

--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

B20 Paul--there's nothing particularly wrong with using the metal fan (looks like aluminum blades) but I'd prefer the plastic for its lighter weight. Even though the blades are curled forward at their tips it still pulls a lot of air and the car actually runs on the cool side--even during track day sessions--it just looks silly being mishapen. It is mounted on a viscous drive. I can't cite any particular 140 model that had the plastic fan and the truth is I don't remember if I installed it or if it was on the car when I bought it from the original owner in 1989 (it's a '69). I never considered it unusual and have owned many 140's and serviced many more than that. Actually I've toyed with the idea of getting rid of the fan altogether--but while on the grid or in traffic on the street it is definetely needed. Having replaced about a zillion water pumps on 140's I consider it to be one of the few weak points on the motor. Maybe it's the use of dual belts but 240's don't seem to use up water pumps at the same rate as 140's. I've considered an electric fan but wonder if the 35 amp alternator would be up to the job-when I put an electric fan on my VolvOldsmobile ('63 Olds 215 V8) I had to go to a bigger AC-Delco alternator than original . On a final note -- maybe my aversion to the metal fan is psychological--I was knocked to the ground by a errant fan blade in the face (AMC Hornet) about 30 years ago. 125 stitches and a 4 inch scar later it still gives me the willies thinking about it. -- Dave

Actually I've toyed with the idea of getting rid of the fan altogether--but while on the grid or in traffic on the street it is definetely needed.

You've got something wrong with your engine. If it's running properly, you only need a fan when stationary.

--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

"Actually I've toyed with the idea of getting rid of the fan altogether--but while on the grid or in traffic on the street it is definetely needed."

"You've got something wrong with your engine. If it's running properly, you only need a fan when stationary."

Nothing wrong at all--I thought I was saying what you just wrote.-- Dave

If that's the case, then just fit a cheap electric fan & delete the mechanical fan totally. Chasing a good plastic fan just because it might save a tenth of a horsepower over the proper steel with viscous hub fan seems rather pointless.

--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

"If that's the case, then just fit a cheap electric fan & delete the mechanical fan totally. Chasing a good plastic fan just because it might save a tenth of a horsepower over the proper steel with viscous hub fan seems rather pointless."
Paul--my concern was not over potential gain in power but rather that there be less weight for the WP bearing to have to deal with. The plastic fan uses the same viscous coupler as the metal fan. Finding a straight plastic fan would have been a simple swap--but as I've said--my car runs cool, the fan pulls a good amount of air--just looks weird. When I installed a front mounted Volvo "Florida" fan in my V8 265 (all aluminum 3.5 litre 1963 Oldsmobile) the temp stayed under control very well but I had the fan wired to an always hot relay--to provide for a minute or two of fan operation after shut off. The draw was too much for the original Delco 35 amp alternator--the battery would often be not charged enough. Changing to a later internal regulated 60 amp Delco seemed to solve that problem. I didn't want to get too involved in engineering an electric fan project on the 144 as I've got 2 other major projects in the works--reconditioning a 1984 245 GLT TI as a daily driver and rebuilding the V8 with 5-speed in a later body. -- Dave

my concern was not over potential gain in power but rather that there be less weight for the WP bearing to have to deal with.

99% of the time the bearings fail because the seal wears out & lets water through the bearings, the other 1% of failures are due to an overtightened belt.

I had the fan wired to an always hot relay--to provide for a minute or two of fan operation after shut off.

Why would you do that? I had mine wired to a simple switch, via a fused relay of course. Engine gets hot, turn it on. Car gets mobile, turn it off straight away. The switch gives you something to do when you are stuck in traffic.





--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

"I had the fan wired to an always hot relay--to provide for a minute or two of fan operation after shut off."
I did this to solve a problem which I never did quite figure out the "why".. Despite the fact that the internals of the cooling system are good, a new - name brand wp, new three row core in the original radiator and using a Volvo expansion tank the car would tend to heat-sink boil on shutoff--especially after coming off the highway (I live 30 seconds off my main highway route). The fan running for a minute or two eliminated that tendency. The temperature on the highway was always normal and cool around town.
The manual control of an electric fan would be a solution for eliminating the engine fan on my 144 (the Volvo From Heck) as you suggested. I'm the only one other than my cousin who ever drives my car. My wife refuses to even ride in it---and given the stiff suspension I don't blame her. -- Dave

It actually boiled?

Sometimes a leaky head gasket can weep some compression in to the cooling system & the gas comes out the expansion tank.

I left one of my cars sit too long & the headgasket rusted out (custom steel/ asbestos/steel). When I started it, it ran on 3 cylinders with bloop bloop bloop sounds coming from the expansion tank. I drove it around the block a few times like that & it never looked like overheating. B20's are amazing like that.



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Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.

I don't know if "boil" is the right word but within a minute or two of shutoff the coolant would expand and completely fill the expansion tank (from a 140) to overflowing. The motor itself is fine. Once I rewired the fan relay to + at all times that came under control. I had to "learn" the tendencies of my creation as I went along. Filling the radiator to just cover the tubes helped a lot. I know the "Florida" fan was meant to cool the a/c condensor-not act as an engine fan - and when it started getting noisy I disconnected it and added a direct wp driven engine fan (my motor sits low--used a small fan from an MGB and modified 240 shroud) and kept the coolant level low enough. When I refinish the car as a '93 245 and 5-speed I'll probably go with a sucker fan. Luckily all the variants of the 215 V8--Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac and Rover can interchange parts. There's a short shaft wp out there that will allow me the room for a behind the radiator electric fan. -- Dave

Dave,

Like Planetman said, there is one on ebay. If you are going to bid it, I'll hold back.

Also, while I was searching out parts vendors, I saw one has plastic fan replacements for about $56 new. Now I just need to remember who it was.

No luck for a plastic fan in the spare parts collection. In fact, I also need a fan.
--
"Don't understand why people abort Volvos, either."

Don--thanks for checking it out. As I mentioned, I do have a metal 6 blade clutch fan (with clutch) available if you're interested, as well as a fixed 4 blade metal fan such as you'd find on 122's and the '68 140. -- Dave

OK, Dave, I'll let you know about those this week 'cause I will get to looking over each vehicle for potential as immediate daily drivers. It's the sedan that's the victim of a cut radiator. I took it and its replacement to a radiator shop yesterday, so, he'll tell me soon what I am in for. The sedan is too far gone rust-wise for immediate use. Everything is fixable, of course, but at a big price in time and labor.

After sitting 19 years, though, the engine turned by hand using a mete 3/8" drive and maybe 25 pound-ft of effort!

I am looking forward to actually starting the thing later this week.

The wagon, now, that's my suject today.....seller said a Volvo dealership on 2001 wouldn't pass it for inspection due to a "rusted frame". Today I'll try to figure out what the heck that was supposed to mean.

Other than this and needing a master cylinder, it looks road worthy

If I need a fan, I'll let you know in time for for EMRA Lime Rock

Hello,

There is 1 on ebay.

Item number 300327453159
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Thanks for the heads up Eric---Dave

I checked out the fan on e-bay that Planetman suggested and found it to be only slightly less warped than the one I already have on the car. If anyone else is interested in it I can attest to the amount of air flow it will provide. It's up with a $29 buy it now. DON--you can have my metal 6 blade(a good thing to have if you are going to have A/C) w/drive clutch & if you need them--the adaptor collar pieces-- for $20.

I have a yellow plastic one I got from the junkyard, viscous coupler and still attached to the water pump iirc. If you need it let me know. Thought about replacing my metal one but the B18 has no heat problems, live too high in the mtns for that and I don't drive it in the summer.
--
68 145S B18B, Dual SUs, 343k and climbing

Thanks for posting--I've sent you a note directly--Dave