Hi

I was offered a good price for a brand new set of 5, 14" x 6.5" Minilite wheels. Unfortuntely the PCD is for a BMW (seller is not also sure). These are the insciptions stamped on the back of the wheel 340 - S Z and H294322. Can anyway decipher these codes?

These are my concerns if I decide to pursue this project. Assuming that these wheels are for a BMW and are Rear Wheel Driven vehicles:

1. Can I use aluminum spacers (1") embedded with a set of new stud bolts to correct the PCD? Will there still be ample space to avoid tire rubbing against the inner and outer fender wells considering the wheel width is 6.5"?

2. If No. 1 is no good, is it advisable to have the spindle/rotor stud bolts relocated to align the new wheels? Is there ample space in between the original location of the stud bolt mounting to do the conversion? Given this choice, I think tire rubbing on the fender wells will no longer be a problem.

3. The new wheels comes with stud bolts that is "screwed in". Will there be a problem in terms of safety if I go with Volvo's original mounting? (stud bolt inside and nut outside)

I am very eager to hear your comments and would love to see my Brick with the Minilites mounted correctly and safely.

If they are a really good deal (and you really can't know that until you know exactly what they are), buy them, sell them to someone that can use them... that is to say, someone with an appropriate BMW)

Then use the profits to buy some wheels that actually fit your car.

--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Hi Matt

A very practical suggestion indeed. Let me first exhaust all possible efforts in dealing with this project. After weighing the pros and cons, I might just consider this option.

BMW 325 bottle caps are 25 mm et
I suspect other BMW rwd wheels are similar.
Spacers are going to poke the wheels out too far.
A wheel shop may be able to redrill them and insert steel plugs,
or a machine shop could re-do your axles & hubs.
Neither of these options are cheap,good,or risk free.
Bail on the idea imho.
--
71-145-S

thank you for the information and the options. I will take consider all these when I make my decision.

You'll most likely need a set of custom-made spacers (or "adapters"). You can readily find spacers (from Volvo hub to Volvo wheel) that simply extend the track (i.e., move your wheels outboard) for Volvo wheels.

However, your problem (if you accept those wheels) will be to find spacers whose holes will go on to the Volvo's centering hub and lug bolts, and offer studs that will made with the different bolt-circle of a different make of wheels (in this case, BMW).

When you think of all the possibilities of make-to-different-make (and model) cars, you'll come to realize that there are too many to expect a company to stock all the possible (or guess at the most common) combinations. Thus, you'll have to order a set of one-off (actuall, 4-off :-), customized spacers, if you can even find a shop that will do this in a trustworthy fashion.

Hi Ken C

Thank you for your inputs. I do realize the complications of this project. I agree with our suggestion and I know a machine shop that can do this type of spacers/adaptors.

However, my concern is the inner/outer side wall fender rubbing since the wheels are designed for rear wheel driven vehicles (BMW), using spacers extend the tires outside "negatively".

Not only do you have to worry about outboard clearance, but also inboard clearance -- and the front and rears have different inboard clearances.

I haven't got a clue about the BMW wheels' offset, but that's the place to start. A Volvo 240's wheels (if OEM, including alloys) have a embossed number on the inner side, for examples either 5.5x14x20 or "ET20". The third figure of the first example, or the "ET" value, are both 20, which is the proper offset for 240 wheels. This is a figure, in mm, that tells you where the centerline of the tire, or the tire-carrying rim of the wheel, is in relation to the mounting plane of the wheel on the hub. So you have to start by determining the BMW wheel's offset, which I imagine is very different from a Volvo's (I'm guessing, but I think the offset is entirely in the other direction)!

The easiest way to picture this is to start with a Volvo wheel's dimensions: figure your problem is to draw a diagram of the wheel (like a mechanical drawing), placing the mounting plane 20mm from the centerline of the wheel, and then (knowing the width of the wheel, e.g., 5.5in on a Volvo) properly place the wheel's edge (at the tire mounting bead) in your diagram.

Then do the same with a diagram, drawn to the same scale, for the BMW's wheel, and overlay it over the Volvo's wheel's diagram.

At least this way, you'll get a picture of what problems you might face.

Also, remember that when you get your adapters made, they have to have a hub edge that's precise -- I forgot the right term, but it's something like "hubcentric" -- because the Volvo's wheels are really centered by this edge on the center of the wheel, not just by the positions of the lug nuts.

Good luck.

Hi Ken C

Thank you very much for the detailed description which I admit is the way to start this project correctly...actual measurements of the offset and width of the OE wheels compared to the BMW aftermarket.

As to the "hub centric" concern. I have been running on home-brewn t6 1" spacers for my OE front wheel drive Columba 16" wheels. I just feel right going back to the 14" set-up.

I still have with me the steel 14 x 5.5 OE wheels and I'll do what you just suggested. I will keep in touch.

dindo