|
|
|
Hello All,
Let me start off by saying I am a total volvo newb, but I am pretty excited about buying one. I have decided to take a look at either a 240 or 740 tonight. I am on a pretty limited budget and these are the only two that fit my budget and don't mention that they need anything from their craigslist posts. Both are selling for $500. The 240 is high mileage (270K), and The 740 has lower miles (150K). I am really fond of the sedan style of 240. If we assume that both are in comparable condition which do you think would be a smarter buy? Should I steer clear of the high mileage 240? (I realize I'll be needing to do some wrenching at this price point, and am capable) I really appreciate your help! If you have any other suggestions it'd be greatly appreciated, i.e. is there a list of volvo specific things to look for when test driving etc?
~Dominic
p.s. here are the two ads:
240:
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/1257481779.html
740:
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/1292157132.html
|
|
|
|
|
Good news. Last night I was able to go look at a '91 740 sedan. It was in pretty nice shape, only rust I found was under the corner of the floor on each of the driver and passenger side. It has had a lot of work recently, the owner had a huge binder of receipts for things replaced (rack, radiator, oil pan, gauges, brake calipers rotors, pads, etc.). It comes with two sets of tires: snow + summer with only one season on them. It drove pretty well, the brakes don't seem that strong to me, but I am not sure if that is typical. It has good power, and the transmission seems to shift well, OD works. The issues are that the power steering pump is slowly leaking (owner says its a bad o-ring), the headliner is drooping, the fuel gauge is stuck at empty and the exhaust is somewhat shot. I put a $200 deposit (agreed price $1,200) down and the owner is going to have the affected exhaust replaced, then I'll pick it up sometime next week probably. Thanks again for everyone's input!
|
|
|
|
|
Dominic,
I'm a little confused on the price. Is this a different car? At a glance it looks like you agreed to pay $1200 for a car with an asking price of $500. If it is the same car, and the exhaust repair is the only difference, a new exhaust from the cat back (2 mufflers and associated pipe) is about $150 and takes about an hour to install. So, that can't account for the $700 difference.
Charley
|
|
|
|
|
Yeah, I wasn't very clear. It's a different car. The original ($500) 740 never called me back or replied to my email. the original asking price on this one was $1300.
|
|
|
|
|
Good luck! The Volvo adventure has begun, and you are in one of the best places I've found for advice and support. I hope you've got some money squirreled away for the typical maintenance interval issues that all used cars have, but one of these Volvos is a pretty solid start.
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks for all of your suggestions! I called on both ads, the 240 was sold
and the 740 hasn't gotten back to me. We'll see what pops up, keepin my
fingers crossed. Thanks again to all!
|
|
|
|
|
Keep on looking, as there are a ton of Volvos out there, obviously. I'll throw my opinion out there and give a vote for a 240. I find them simpler to maintain, and if you are planning on doing upgrades, perhaps there are more available for a 200 than a 700 series. No matter what, bring along another $500.00 at least to get you up to snuff after you purchase your dream machine. Let us know what you find! Good luck!
|
|
|
|
|
Anecdotally, the lower-mileage car may end up needing more work because a lot of things that will start to fail at 150K have already been replaced on the 270K car. But then, at 270K, those things might need replacement again. Kind of a crap shoot. I'm at the former point on my '91 240, which had 132K on it (now 143K) and I'm replacing a LOT of things.
I dislike the look of the 740, but that's purely subjective.
|
|
|
|
|
Greetings,
All things being equal between the two, general condition etc., etc., I would go for the 740,and here is why.
We have in the fleet (5) 700 series cars and a lone 240, the 700 series is a lot newer design, a more refined car, rides better, gets better mileage.
Compared to one of the 700's with same engine,trans,and rear end ratio, driver, the 240 get 1-2 mpg less even though I put a lockup trans in the 240.
I have found that any job that has needed done, to me, seems easier, on the 700's than on the 240, some much easier,for one, getting the transmisson bolts out, another is any front suspension work.
When we got the 240, I just about disassembled the car refurbishing it and having done the same to 3 of the 700's before the 240 came along, I decided we will have no more 240's.
READ the FAQ's here on buying 700/900 cars, they will answer most any question yuo have as of what to look for and check.
Good luck, rcs
|
|
|
|
|
What year is the 240? Galvanized lower body panels started in 1987 or 1988. Better wire insulation was used, I think, in 1988 in both cars. Expect a falling headliner in the 744.
I'd check and test drive both of them. They will sell fast at $500 and you may want to head over to the best bet first, in my opinion, the lower mileage "Florida" 744. I'll pull a carfax to define their meaning of a Florida car if you like. Post back.
Basic catch up maintenance can run from $200 to $500 plus tires if needed.
Good luck,
Tom
|
|
|
|
|
Either car, I would hope you are mechanically inclined so you can handle all the little tinkering that will pop up. If you are handy you can fix most issues for cheap but if every little thing sends the car to the Shop, you will be in debt fast.
I am a 200 owner so I am partial to that.
I like the None interference engine that I believe they changed on the 700 B230 engines. I may be wrong.
I also do not like the Distributor in the back of the Head on the 700 engine.
They are both $500 cars, you will need to tinker. You need to know that up front. I feel the 200 is a bit simpler in general to work on.
This Website can tell you ALL the nuances of these cars. If you get one and have issues, I'm sure we can point you to the fix before you finishing typing the problem.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
|
|
|
|
|
Buy what you like more!
Hands down, the 740 will be less of a headache. I'd seriously be looking for rust on a Cleveland 240.
Just listen for rattles and handling while on a bumpy road. Records are nice to have.
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
|
|
|
|
|
Craigslist is really not helpful for a Volvo buyer. First off, Volvo is NOTORIOUSLY known for crappy Odometers, period. I don't care if it's the truth that "Grandma only drove to church and the doctor" in her 1985 240 - the odo gear is BROKE! With knowing that I've visited 3 Volvos thus far (84 240 Turbo, 97 850 T5, 96 960) Each of the sellers claimed the mileage was really low due to lack of usage... I called BS on the 850 and 960 owners, trying to get an inflated price... the 240 owner was a little more forthcoming... Second, the RWD Volvos are known for high mileage engines that DO keep their compression. Not like the Ford 300ci I6 that CAN get up to 300k, yet the compression will be weak. Volvo took on a concept in the 70's that is totally alien in the auto-manufacturing world of today: build something that will last. When they embraced that idea they made some revisions along the way and they will be seen in either cars... but they held on to that B230F engine (which should be in both cars you're looking at).
You can call around some local Volvo Repairs shops (dealership repair shops, too) and ask for some opinions on the quirks each car has. Or, you can wait for the enthusiasts' opinions to pile up in here... Either way, it all depends on what you're really willing to commit to the car. Neither of these cars are Pricey in the maintenance aspect, compared to a 850. Are you willing to spend a Saturday at the junkyard? Can you deal with a heavy car with less than 120 hp? And finally, if you're wanting more road hugging performance, both of these cars are essentially a good roll cage... you'll have to install the fun.
Tim
--
'92 244 NOW w/ M47 (Hydra, turbo bars, bilstein, urethane bushings)
|
|
|
|
|
Dominic,
If they are in comparable condition, I would buy the lower miles one. I have not looked at the ads you posted.
Charley
|
|
|
|
|
Many years ago I was buying a motorcycle..... there was a pair of Yamahas that were the identical age and model ... one had only 1/2 the miles of the other .... so doing the "Smart" thing .. I bought the low mileage one ... and a friend up the road the other ...... Didn't take long to find out why mine was the "Low Mileage" one .... every doggone time I took it out on the road it broke down ... it was a LEMON !! Caveat Emptor !! All that glitters is not gold .
Brett
--
Brett Sutherland & the 1.5 million mile 122 CANADIAN --- WINDSOR, Nova Scotia the birthplace of HOCKEY www.ecvintagevolvo.com
|
|
|
|
|
