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no start, has spark, way too much fuel, doesn't even seem to fire, cold start compensation was flaky 200 1993

Can fixing the cold start compensation board issue (where the gauge redlines and zeroes sporatically when used to run) fix a no start problem?

Car has spark, does not seem to be even attempting to fire.

Seems to be getting way to much gas.

Was attempting to do compression test earlier and noticed that seems to squirt fuel out like crazy!

I thought faulty injectors stuck open because it would do this even if the electrical is unhooked from the injectors. Replaced with known good set of four from running car and had same issue.

If removing that board behind the odometer doesn't fix the no start problem, I am out of things to try.

It is a 1993 240 with 150k. Was running rough when bought it, supposedly has new AMM and IOC. automatic








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    no start, has spark, way too much fuel, doesn't even seem to fire, cold start compensation was flaky 200 1993

    My 1990 did the same thing due to a bad ECU! Verified b component swap with another car.
    Art








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    stuck open injectors? 200 1993

    Hi there,


    I thought faulty injectors stuck open because it would do this even if the electrical is unhooked from the injectors.


    There's another more common way for fuel to flood the cylinders. If the fuel pressure regulator's diaphragm springs a leak, you will draw raw fuel in through the vacuum hose between the regulator and the intake manifold. Lots of it.

    The temp comp board is for the gauge only - no effect on the fuel system.

    My car has spark too. How, exactly, are you determining yours does?
    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore

    If you have a lot of tension and you get a headache, do what it says on the aspirin bottle:
    "Take two Aspirin" and "Keep away from children"








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      stuck open injectors? 200 1993

      I think it has spark because when I take out a spark plug and lay it across the block I can see it while a helper turns over the key.

      I guess I am going to fix, remove, that temp compensation board because it was acting up, pins 1. And 3 right? The board 'looks' fine maybe those pins just don't make good contact after a while but I think less parts equals more reliable so I am wanting to remove it I guess.

      The regulator I will try too.

      I wonder though, how can it get gas with the injectors unhooked from the electrical? Doesn't the gas have to go through them, or can it bypass them somehow through the fpregulator?

      Thanks!!!!!!!








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        stuck open injectors? 200 1993

        Go back and read what Art wrote. The temperature compensation board has NO bearing whatsoever on your car's problems!

        The injectors indeed need electrical power to function, but look elsewhere for the problem. Injectors are among the most reliable components on a Volvo, able to go billions of open/close cycles without failure.
        --
        In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them.








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          stuck open injectors? 200 1993

          With all due respect, I already read and fully comprehended Arts advice and perhaps I did not make it clear in my post that I will be fixing the TCB anyhow.

          I asked a follow up in my post which was the main point, apparently it should have been at the first line:

          "I wonder though, how can it get gas with the injectors unhooked from the electrical? Doesn't the gas have to go through them, or can it bypass them somehow through the fpregulator?"

          yes, the FPRegulator vacume hose does appear to have gas in it, which I know is bad, and yes has to be replaced now that it's verified, but for comprehension I am wondering still: How gas gets through to the block with the injectors unhooked from the electrical?????


          THANKS!








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            stuck open injectors? 200 1993

            Hi again,

            How gas gets through to the block with the injectors unhooked from the electrical?????

            That hose you found gas in is a vacuum hose. Vacuum is the result of a piston withdrawing from its cylinder, and it is felt by the intake plumbing (manifold) when the intake valves are open. That hose will deliver many times the volume of fuel ordinarily allowed by the fuel injectors and certainly flood the cylinders with fuel.

            Don't crank the car any more or try to start it until you replace the regulator, drain the oil/gas mixture from the crankcase and replace it with new oil, and add a small amount of oil through each spark plug hole.

            Regarding the method of testing spark, I asked the question, because many of us will say "spark is fine" when they see it at the coil. Seeing it at two or more plugs verifies the distributor is turning and the secondary wiring is likely good. You'd be surprised at how many people tear into the electrical stuff when the t-belt isn't even turning the cam.

            Yes, the comp board is 1 and 3, but we usually like to keep separate subjects in separate threads to avoid confusing the issues. If your temp gauge is still balky, post a new thread "temp comp board" or whatever. Surely you've searched a few posts to arrive here and can understand keeping issues concise for that reason.
            --
            Art Benstein near Baltimore

            Since it's the early worm that gets eaten by the bird, sleep late.







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