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I picked up a 91 740 with low miles really cheap for the motor for my 245 that has 300K on it I was wondering if I can use all the acc as they are in place on the 740 in the 240? I know I have to change the dist. What about the down pipe can I use that up to the cat?
Thanks in advance...
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Ok it's done! I ended up just using all the 240 stuff rather then mess with a working system... Very easy plug and play swap all in all took a week from pulling both motors and swapping all the parts, runs great! Back on the road
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Congrats on the swap. I did one several years ago but had the luck of finding a low mileage 240 engine to swap into my 240 sedan. It's always interesting to read about the adventures of other brick swaps!
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Finished prepping and cleaning the new motor, Mounted trans, swapped the intermediate shaft removing the oil catch box to lift up the oil pimp drive worked like a breeze just grabbed the gear with needle nose pliers you will need a timing cover gasket. The only acc issue I have it the PS pump feed hose looks like I'll have to extend it or have one made. The 740 uses a different rack that feeds from the rear. Also had to swap the coolant temp sender, and a vacuum plug in the manifold, motor mounts. New water pump,timing belt.
So far on this 5 speed wagon rehab
new shocks and struts, rear springs, control arm bushings poly, rear hatch wiring, in tank fuel pump and sending unit, Installed 3rd seat, Small clock tack and fuel econ gage, CD player, Removed roof rack used IPD plugs for now. New hood and hinges, Next up new Master cylinder and pads all around. A couple of small rust repairs... It has 257000 miles on it now...
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I got the old motor and trans out yesterday not a bad job at all! Disconecting the clutch cable was the hardest part...LOL now off to the 740 hope it's as easy...
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Started pulling the engine from the 240 today I will post on how the accessory's line up with hoses this week...Unless I have to go get the 92 745 TIC will let ya all know how this goes since I can't find any info on it...
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It's really not hard at all to swap the accessory brackets and leave everything in the proper place for the car. Especially with the motor out. Use the opportunity to replace all those little rubber bushings.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t
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Great info thank you! I'll just leave the alt,power steering pump and ac comp in place and make them work...
I hope...lol
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"I know I have to change the dist."
You might want to explore the wiring mods needed to use the 740's cam driven dist.
To use a 240 block mounted distributor in the 740 motor requires an intermediate shaft with a dist drive gear.
To remove/install that shaft requires disengaging the oil pump, which means lifting the motor and dropping the pan enough to get at the oil pump.
Also, if the 740 is from a Regina FI car (most likely), the flywheel "tone ring" may not work right with your 240 LH 2.4 FI. I think it pulses the crank sensor twice per rev instead of just once.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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The issue with the cam distributor isn't so much the wiring as it is the physical space for the dist. The engine bay is longer and wider in a 700/900, the firewall is tight in behind the motor on a 240.
You don't need to pull the oil pan to remove the intermediate shaft. Just pull the breather box and pull the oil pump drive gear up. Taking the oil pan off really wouldn't allow the oil pump drive gear to get ou of the way.
As for the flywheel/flexplate - good point, just swap them and keep the flywheel/flexplate that came with your car, not the one from the donor car. If they're different.
The downpipe may need a slight bit of finessing to work properly. Perhaps a few well placed dents for clearance, or perhaps slice it behind the turbo and remove a slight bit of length. On a 700 they reach back a litle bit further, since the firewall isn't as close.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t
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You don't need to pull the oil pan to remove the intermediate shaft. Just pull the breather box and pull the oil pump drive gear up.
Could you explain that for me please?
Once you start to remove the intermediate shaft it hangs up after about 8 inches of travel. Are you saying that by removing the breather box you can manipulate the intermediate shaft (pull it up towards the breather opening in the block) in a way that will allow it to be pulled out?
Thanks,
Randy
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The thing that prevents the intermediate shaft from coming out the front of the engine (radiator/grille out of the way) is the oil pump drive. This has a gear at the top that meshes with the intermediate shaft, and a shaft that drops through a bushing and down to the oil pump. Nothing holds this down except the torque from the spinning intermediate shaft and, in the case of a backfire that sends the motor spinning backwards slightly, a little bump on the bottom of the breather box.
If you remove the breather box, then the oil pump drive can be pulled up and out of the engine, thus allowing the intermediate shaft to come forward.
When reinstalling, you put the intermediate shaft back in, then lower the oil pump drive down and fidget with it until it finally meshes with the oil pump properly (the oil pump has a slot, the drive a flat spade tip). Then bolt the breather box back on.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t
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One question here on the 740 block... is the hole for the 240 distributor already bored and covered with a plate? If not, the engine needs to come apart to do so in order to remove all the shavings from the machining process.
jorrell
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92 245 278K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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Yes, the hole is there and machined, as is the bolt hole to secure the distributor. It's blocked off with a metal freeze plug. You can drive a screwdriver through it and pry it out.
Actually, do that before you do anything else, there's a slight chance that the intermediate shaft will have the gears cut. I think the probability of that goes down on the motors made after the 240 ceased production.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t
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Thanks for taking the time to explain the procedure.
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I would have to mod the firewall for clearance not an option... The intermediate shaft is an easy swap I have a few of them with gears...Its a auto 740 and a manual 240 so I have to swap the flywheeel I'm more intrested in the PS,ALT,AC staying in place....
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