I can get the blower to work for a few seconds by thumping the cover of the impeller, otherwise it's dead (no prior squeeking) - questions:
1) please confirm it's a bad blower motor requiring replacement.
2) other than the blower motor resistor - is there anything worth changing while I'm -there-?
3) What does the SRS connector on the center console do - I am trying to keep the car drivable for a few days, partially dissasembled (center console and trim, etc removed) while I wait for the weekend and parts. The console is out and the SRS connector thing that mounts there is taped to the metal console frame (I did not disconnect the wire that plugs into it).

Thanks in advance, I have been to Art's great site (cleanflametrap) for a photo tour (a long time ago I did re-hab a motor by cleaning the bushings and re-lubing w/ bicycle bearing grease, but that was on a 79) so I know what I'm in for, but my memory is not as sharp as Art's photos.

Thanks!
JP

Everybody seems paranoid about the SRS connector on here. It is no big deal. It's used as the test lead should the SRS warning light come one. I have disassembled the panel piece and found that it's just one wire in a 2-pin female wiring harness-type connector. If you pop off the little inner panel marked with "SRS" you will find... nothing. One would insert a wire into the connector and short in a specific way to the ground on the cigarette lighter and watch the number of blinks of the SRS dashboard warning light, indicating a particular fault. If it's out of place, it's not a big issue. It's not going to make the airbag blow.

--
formerly non-registered at drew b.
green 1993 240, 164k 'Cream Puff V,' formerly: blue 1988 240 DL 'Cream Puff III'

sorry, double post

As another person noted the SRS is for the air bag system. The connector in the console is used to reset the codes for the SRS system after a failure of some sort (in my case it was the clock spring in the steering column which broke and set off the SRS light on the instrument panel.)

Mark

I just did one last weekend, on my son's '83 245. It was tough, but I got it done. The worst part was modifying the mounting points with a Dremel, but since you've got a '92, you won't have to modify anything.

The only issue I ran into was: with the mod done, and a nice flat surface to mount to, it seemed as if the motor shaft (IPD) was not quite long enough on the passenger side. I had to trim a bit off of the impeller blades to keep them from hitting the inside shroud. Once I did that, it was smooth sailing.

SRS = Supplemental Restraint System. Take a good long read or find out some more on this before you disconnect and especially reconnect this plug. I don't know any details, but I certainly don't want anyone to get tagged by a stupid airbag!

If you bang it and then it runs for a while, it's the motor. Have had a couple of non Volvo's have that failure, both were the blower motor.

The legendary Garage Sale is still relevant, if you are looking for a faster way take a look at the Modified Chain Saw method.

SRS connector, I got nothin.

Did inspect and reuse the blower motor resistor pack with no ill affects. It's been four or five years back that the motor was changed.

Good Luck,

Paul

Thanks all for the replies and info, motor and resistor on it's way. Looking forward to it, sort-of.

I have read in other post about having to cut the housing mounts to get the motor shifted over far enough to get the shaft over far enough to place the turbine blade correctly.

I have a new Siemens motor to install in a '86. I have looked at my motor and see that the flange is pressed around the outside of the motor.

Question:

Would it be possible to push the flange ring off center to get the approximately 5/16" of shaft distance?

Phil

Phil – I’m not sure, but the motor I got had instructions to modify the mount for older models. I’d check cleanflametrap.com for a good description w/ photos.
The motor arrived and everything fit, got it back together and it runs (no parts left over either).
Some notes:
1. Read Art’s excellent photo guided tour.
2. Allow 2 full days to give you time for head scratching on the removal phase and cleaning, checking and adjusting on the installation phase (I had to fix some center cluster light bulbs and switch ground wires that had been incorrectly reinstalled on a previous trip to the center of the earth). I took me 6+6 hours, I’m slow and fussy.
3. Take digital photos, good notes and bag, tag and label parts – there are a lot of screws. I used a separate clear plastic little snack bag labeled w/ a sharpie for each component. I had Art’s photos up on the computer for a visual reference.
4. Take good notes, really good notes on how the center console switches are wired and grounded, if you mix up the little light bulb ground wires, they won’t light up correctly. A test light is a good tool if you get things mixed up (AMHIK).
5. Keep the seats in and remove the dash. I probably spent a good hour trying not to remove the dash, but ended up doing it anyways and it was easy (5 or six screws and then lift her out). Just accept the fact that when you’re done, you’ll be seeing plenty ‘o firewall.
6. After you remove the dash, it’s really easy to remove the ducts, blower housing etc.
7. The only thing that makes this job a PITA is all the freekin parts that have to be removed. Crack open an extra large jar of patience and dump in a dollop of organization and it’s just a weekend project. See items 1 and 3 above.
8. Volvo gets an F for how difficult they made this (I bet the engineer had previously worked at Mercedes). Why his design did not also require removing the spare tire in the trunk is a mystery to me.

>>Why his design did not also require removing the spare tire in the trunk is a mystery to me.

It does. It would have taken you half the time if you started by removing the spare.

I can't believe I will have to do it one day. My mechanic cringed when I suggested he do it, and quoted $700. Must be worth every penny.

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Once upon a time there were these Volvo engineers and one day one of them created this thing called a heater blower motor. After they all looked and marveled at it for awhile the head engineer spoke up and said "Hey, I've got an idea, lets build a car around this" and the rest is history.

I would replace two blowers before having to do a heater core again. Now I have very odd electrical problems.

Oh well, low cost of ownership, right?
--
'87 244 5sp, '04 Gas Guzzler (F150 4x4)