HELP!!
We purchsed a 1994 940 wagon. We've had it towed twice, 45 and 70 miles! After being told it wasn't the battery, or alternator, have been told its the Ins.cluster. If all lights on the dash don't come on when the key is turned...don't try to drive it.
My 16 year old with his permit wants to drive it, and fix it. He has never done ANY work on any car before. He's found this in the Chiltons book, and said its only 2 paragraphs...looks REALLY EASY. Hopes to do it this weekend.
Is it easy? Any advice, or problems he should watch for? Any chance of doing further damage?
Grateful for any help on how to do it, or what to look for. I'll hold him off until I (hopefully) hear from someone out there!THANKS!!
3 volvos for me

There is likely an open circuit on the printed circuit board on the inst panel.
'93 and '94 years seem to be the worst circuit boards.You may find it with a magnifying glass after the board is separated from the panel.It can possibly be repaired with solder and a jumper wire,if you can find the break.

Anew circuit board is about $200 at the dealer.A used board must be an exact match to work properly.They are generally hard to find.

The car can be driven as is if you manually energize the alternator.this is done by starting the motor and momentarily connecting a jumper wire from the small red wire on on the alt to the large red wire.The alt will charge until the car is switched off.This must be repeated each time the car is started.You can confirm this by testing with a voltmeter across the battery terminals.

Bill

Dear 3 volvos for me,

May this find you well. First, do not try to remove the instrument cluster, without first removing the negative battery cable clamp from the negative battery terminal. Put the cable clamp in a plastic bag, to isolate it. This prevents accidental damage to the cluster and other electrical equipment.

You will need to record the radio security code. Cutting-off power to the entire car causes the radio to go "off-line". If you do not have the code, a Volvo dealer can give you the code, if you supply the Vehicle Identification Number. Most dealers will do this gratis.

Second, if neither the cluster instruments nor warning lights work, the likely problem is a corroded connector, a broken ground wire, or a dis-connected ground wire. Even if you get a good used cluster, it won't work without a ground.

One ground wire (Brown-Grey) starts at position 2, on the 8-wire connector (upper left corner of the cluster, with the back of the cluster facing you). This Brown-Grey wire goes to a ground point at the "A" pillar, near the driver's door. Another ground wire (Brown) goes from position 3 on the 4-wire connector on the speedometer, to the central electrical panel (behind the front center console ashtray).

When the car failed, did it suddenly just stop? If so, did any of the instrument cluster warning lights come-on?

How were you able to re-start the car? It could be that there are two concurrent but unrelated problems. If the RPM/Crank sensor is failing, it will cause the car to stop suddenly. This sensor is mounted atop the transmission bell housing, behind the engine. See the FAQs for how to test it.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

I've removed many 700/900 instrument clusters, and replaced them, without disconnecting the battery. Nothing has ever been damaged. Could you explain why the battery should be disconnected?
--
john

Dear John,

May this find you well. Yes. I, too, have removed many clusters. Occasionally, I have found that a minor defect in the plastic covering the copper traces on the circuit "card" can allow a short to ground. If the power has been cut-off, no harm can be done.

Generally, I cut power for most electrical work, except for changes of relays, which are not energized, if the ignition switch is "off".

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

The ignition switch cuts the power to the instrument cluster.
--
john

Not entirely. The clock gets a constant 12V regardless of ignition switch position, so there is merit in Spook's recommendation.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles)

Good point about the clock. Still, I've removed and replaced many clusters and never had a problem with the battery connected.
--
john

Cluster removal


Not sure whats wrong with the car. The only thing I remember is that you have to use a real skinny shanked screwdriver or maybe even a stiff coat hanger to press in the clips. I thought I had a skinny screwdriver but it took me a while to figure out the shank was hitting the metal slot and not the spring clip. It went easy but the wiring is stiff. Ease it out and straighten out the wire. The umbilical cord are long enough and I had it sitting on the dash with a few wires still connected. Have a plastic baggy for the misc screws. Memorize the clip placement. Check the lamps and make the exchange before installing the new cluster.

Tom

What codes are being displayed? Is it a turbo or non-turbo? Your son will be knee deep in alligators real soon. Good luck.

This is a bit broad.
Really, it depends. This can be something stupid easy, or something stupid hard. I have only had a non-functioning and internittent speed sensor, though. Try soldering.