My 1986 mean machine, the Blue Meanie, is pretty much back on the road, ready for action after she was written off as a total loss by my insurance provider two weeks ago. I replaced the core support (aka radiator support?), the headlights and blinkers, and the radiator fan hood, and yes, that's all folks, now she is a driving beast once again, so much for 'totaling' a car these days. In the rest of the world they'd pay GOOD money to have that car in ANY condition, and true to my civic responsibility as a citizen of the world i have done good on my duty as an automobile owner.

anyways, preceding the accident the car had: 1) leaky junction block 2) 23 year old struts which had seen 210,000 miles of wear (I think; either way they're quite bad) and most critically 3) a missing/broken center brake light in the fifth door window.

now if anyone is familiar with the CHP or particularly the Calif. DMV salvage vehicle inspection, i would like to know if the standards for checking brake lights include the third light, and if their standards for safety include things light leaky junction block and wonky struts. The junction block is probably first on my list of things to replace and i can clean the hell out of it and fill the MC tank with fresh fluid before the inspection, so i guess that's no biggie but really, will the car fail categorically due to the missing brake light? the ones along the side work fine.

THANK YOU!

I took my 72-145 to SSF DMV.
The Lady came out took one glance at the car,and had me read the VIN from the 'A' pillar,looked at the light and brake inspection paperwork,and we went back inside to do the paperwork for the new title. I was surprised at how easy it was. Good luck,I don't think she would have known a 3 rd brake light from Adam.
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71-145-S

that's reassuring, but the bottom line is that i have to get it inspected by a shop who WILL fail it for the cracked tail light cover, missing brake light, leaky junction block and probably every other thing about the ancient beast that is my beautiful blue brick, and any DMV worker would have to be a fool to overlook that on paper when i bring it in to re-register my car. BUT maybe i'll take it to SSF DMV first....

You still need a brake and light,and pink or non op.
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71-145-S

They went after my very slightly leaky brake junction block when I go my inspection in San Francisco. I had to argue about a steering rack tie rod I had replaced 18 months earlier they said was loose. I had to pay extra for the lamp adjustment, when it had been fine before, IMO, (a rear hit), and I'd attempted to make them better with the "shine them on the wall" method after they told me they were off. The guys I went to were low priced for the certificate, but were really fishing for repairs money, and knew they had me over a barrel, unless I wanted to start over and pay again at another station.

Choose a station carefully. That's my advice. I wish I would have paid $10 more and had good english language skills from the crew, and a kinder gentler approach to this B.S.

But maybe we get spoiled in CA. It was my first thorough inspection of one of my cars in my life.

Good Luck, You'll need it!

Steve

Wow, I hope the responses you got are valid. I've never done it myself but the Body Shop owning friends I have in Pennsylvania used to do it all the time. Then the laws changed. More money, more hoops to jump through. It became more of a hassle then an old Volvo is worth. I gather it had something to do with too many seriously compromised cars making it back onto the road.

Good Luck!

-Will
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854 - 244 - Mini

I bought an 84 242 out of pick n pull and had to get the inspection. It was a brake and light inspection WHICH has to be done by a DMV or state certified shop not just any shop. The certificates are 68.00 dollars each. Thanks california. Not sure if the DMV can do this or not at least in california anyway. Hope this helps

WOW only $68.00, every other one i've called is at LEAST 85 if not $140+. Was this in the bay area?

Man i am not looking forward to this. i will replace the junction block on monday i guess ($90 + tax + fluid + line wrench = $110+) then add the rear lamp (hopefully the wiring works, i guess $40 from the scrap yard), check the bulb in the dash and do a swell job on the headlights, then 'rent' a rear tail light from a comrade just before the inspection (one tail light has a cracked cover), so i guess i'm looking at at least $240 just to get the car inspected+passing, not to mention the DMV fees (another $87-97), so a grand total of let's say about $340....all because I wanted to collect the money i thought i was owed from my insurance company after paying for collision insurance all these years!! let's see, $1000 - 340 = $640 + three weeks of headaches and multiple days lost in work of opportunity costs (not that i have a steady job anyways).

lesson learned!

thanks for the tips, i guess anything could happen. brake rotors and pads could use a replacement as well, i suppose my estimates may be on the extreme side of hopeful, considering the circumstances of my old car and getting an inspection from a for-profit shop and not the CHP.

and thanks for the luck, i need it!

I had one done on a salvaged vehicle about 4 years ago. The DMV or CHP inspection is more like a safety check. Are all the lights working, are all the mirrors present, seat belts, bumpers, etc, etc as opposed to the kind of inspection you might want a mechanic to do when buying a used car. My experience in San Francisco was that the DMV people do not know much about cars technically and where very reluctant to certify it. They kept giving me the run around sort of to get this inspected or that including the lamp inspection. I took it to the local CHP office. I had to make an appointment on the day their inspector was at that office. I think it is one the same officers who inspect commercial trucks. Anyway, he took one walk around, asked me to try all the lights and promptly signed me off with out lamp inspection receipts or anything else.

In January 2001, my 1985 245 "Cosmo" was rammed and totalled (according to the insurance company) in a parking lot by a gentleman who became a bit irate and exercised poor judgment. The back end finished up a bit wrinkled, but all doors worked and I drove Cosmo home. Not bad for a "totalled" car.

After the insurance company settled the claim, I had to have Cosmo re-titled as a salvage vehicle. One of the requirements involved going to a certified light and brake shop for an inspection. As I remember, they checked all lights except to glove box and dome lights.

I drove Cosmo for three more years until he retired because of an arthritic transmission.

If your 240 originally came with the third light, it will be required to be present and functional. They are not such a bad idea anyway and we have had them added to earlier models.

Regards,

Tatra Mike
San Diego, California

1985 244 "Alfsen" (the first - the flagship)
1984 245 "Buster" (with the relatives in Seattle}
1985 245 "Cosmo" (enjoying retirement in the side yard)
1985 245 "Daisy" (back seat down, full of tools, the work truck)
1985 245 "Earl (hoozah, another stick shift!)