Hi all:

Six weeks ago I got to use a lift and installed IPD sways and overload springs on this '91 245. The wagon had been previously operated near OCC in upstate NY in heavy salt winter roads and the result was total rust on the underside. Also much to my conern was that "all" rear bushings were toast.

I had no option but to go ahead with the IPD Sways/HD Springs but now have to replace the busings which seems to mean a redo of the job just completed.

I have the TAB tool but want to know if I should use PB Blaster or WD40 on all busings prior to pressing out and reinsertion?

It may be helpful to press out but I wonder if the oil would degrade the rubber on install of the new ones. Perhaps light grease (white lithium)?

Any comments on what I should look out for in tackling the TAB's end links, torque arm, etc.

Any expert experience would be greatly apprecaited as usual as I may be able to get on the lift this weekend.

I am using stock rubber bushings in the rear and may use Poly when I eventually get to the front.


Thanks

That's on four 1980's 240's over several years. No problems noted.

Me too, on my 5 240's I have only replaced poly torque rod and rubber rear TAB bushings. The other rear suspension bushings rarely need replacement.
I do it on the ground on jack stands one side at a time.

Dan

If you aren't worried too much about going to a concours event and you operate in an area that uses salt on the roads, I use never-seez on all of my bushings before installing them, as well as the area that they will contact on the vehicle. In addition I will kind of paint on a little more onto the installed bushing, especially that pesky TAB. It seems to help a lot for easing removal and slowing down the dreaded "tin worm". Good luck yo you. A lift is on my Christmas list.

Hi,

I just replaced all rear bushings on my 91 240 wagon. I did not use any penetrant to remove the bushings. I used a reasonable replica of the tools that were made by other brickboarders, specifically the venerable Art Benstein. These tools can be found somewhere here on the board. Since they changed the search engine, I have had trouble finding archived articles. You will need access to a good arbor press to remove and install the stabilizer links. I was told by the ipd guys that if you go with natural rubber in the back to stay bubber up front. Evidently the urethane is a stiffer ride. You won't believe the improvement when you replace the rear bushings. If you click on the urethane bushing picture (link) on ipd's website, you will get a set of instructions (pdf) that is very helpful.

Mark

Mark;

Thanks for the input. Was the wagon up on a lift or on jack stands?

Bentley's notes not to reuse the "torque rod" and "track rod" self locking end nuts ( I assume that they are nylok nuts).

Do you know the metric size and thread count so I can get some prior to the job?

Thanks,

Al

I did the job on jack stands. I did not replace the nuts or any bolts, everything seems to be ok.

Mark

I reused the hardware.. No biggy. I just put some Lock tight on the threads. Keep in mind to push the TABS out toward the center of the car and back in form the center of the car. The Bushings ARE tapered. The old ones will give you a fight on the way out but after cleaning the area and greasing the new ones, they will go about 80% of the way in with your hand before even setting up the Tool for the last seating push. Putting the Bushing in the freezer the night before will shrink them a bit and make it even easier.
Unfortunately, you are right, you basically are undoing what you did the other weekend, at least everything will come apart easily.
You may need to take the muffler hangers off the rear most muffler to get it out of the way.
The TAB tool will not work with the Other bushings.
I did a set of TABS and Torque rod bushing with the car on Jackstands
My guess is the TABS and Torque rod bushing are tired but probably not the Cross link...they are Solid rubber where the others are not.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

I have the TAB tool but want to know if I should use PB Blaster or WD40 on all busings prior to pressing out and reinsertion?

PB Blaster without a doubt. Kroil is also a good penetrant. WD40 is popular because they spend so much money on advertising. It is really a very lousy penetrant. It is forumlated to displace water. So the next time your distributor cap and wires are wet and the car won't start a good spray of WD40 will probably help.

Spend some time scraping the joints between the bushing housing and the tabs that surround them. Try to remove as much rust as possible between liberal soakings of PB Blaster. Alternate tapping the tabs with a hammer as well. Removing all the rust you can as well as soaking the junction of the bushing housing and the tabs will make it easier but it certainly won't be easy.

The last time I did a set I followed this procedure in preparation and it still was difficult. I found that once the bolt got difficult to turn I could hit the head of the bolt with a hammer and that impact allowed me to turn it once again with the wrench. That was repeated many times to remove them.

The new ones press in rather easily and just a light coat of oil or grease will be all you need.

Randy

I had great difficulty with the "tool" on my 91 240 TABs. I ended up sawing the old busings into three pieces using a sawzall, then pounding the remains out. That is the method I will use when I get around to the 90 240 DL. The "tool" was handy for installation of the new TABs though.

Brian Mee
1990 240 DL
1991 240
1992 945T

Thanks Randy:

This is my first bushing replacement and Bentley's does not mention using penetrant like PB Blaster but it made sense to me and you confirmed it. Also the wire brushing of the rust at contact points makes sense and I will clean up as best I can.

The Bentley's also notes not to reuse self locking nuts so I assume that the "torque arm" and "track rod" end nuts use nylon self locking nuts.

Do you know the metric size of these so I can get some prior to the job?

Thanks

Al

I will admit that I am at odds with Bentley on not reusing locking nuts- I reuse them everytime. They are not(in my experience) the nylon insert type but rather the "just a bit oval" kind.

I will add further to the prep procedure to include the fact that not only do I wire brush to remove all the rust I can, I also use an awl and dental picks to remove as much scale as possible to allow the greatest opportunity for the PB Blaster to get to work.

Access to a lift is a bonus!

Randy