That's on four 1980's 240's over several years. No problems noted.

If you aren't worried too much about going to a concours event and you operate in an area that uses salt on the roads, I use never-seez on all of my bushings before installing them, as well as the area that they will contact on the vehicle. In addition I will kind of paint on a little more onto the installed bushing, especially that pesky TAB. It seems to help a lot for easing removal and slowing down the dreaded "tin worm". Good luck yo you. A lift is on my Christmas list.

Hi,

I just replaced all rear bushings on my 91 240 wagon. I did not use any penetrant to remove the bushings. I used a reasonable replica of the tools that were made by other brickboarders, specifically the venerable Art Benstein. These tools can be found somewhere here on the board. Since they changed the search engine, I have had trouble finding archived articles. You will need access to a good arbor press to remove and install the stabilizer links. I was told by the ipd guys that if you go with natural rubber in the back to stay bubber up front. Evidently the urethane is a stiffer ride. You won't believe the improvement when you replace the rear bushings. If you click on the urethane bushing picture (link) on ipd's website, you will get a set of instructions (pdf) that is very helpful.

Mark

I have the TAB tool but want to know if I should use PB Blaster or WD40 on all busings prior to pressing out and reinsertion?

PB Blaster without a doubt. Kroil is also a good penetrant. WD40 is popular because they spend so much money on advertising. It is really a very lousy penetrant. It is forumlated to displace water. So the next time your distributor cap and wires are wet and the car won't start a good spray of WD40 will probably help.

Spend some time scraping the joints between the bushing housing and the tabs that surround them. Try to remove as much rust as possible between liberal soakings of PB Blaster. Alternate tapping the tabs with a hammer as well. Removing all the rust you can as well as soaking the junction of the bushing housing and the tabs will make it easier but it certainly won't be easy.

The last time I did a set I followed this procedure in preparation and it still was difficult. I found that once the bolt got difficult to turn I could hit the head of the bolt with a hammer and that impact allowed me to turn it once again with the wrench. That was repeated many times to remove them.

The new ones press in rather easily and just a light coat of oil or grease will be all you need.

Randy