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240 SE rough idle 200 1991

My 240 has developed a rough idle this past month and I spent some time trying to track it down yesterday. Checked the vacuum lines, vacuum booster for the brakes, Air Mass Meter, and anything else I could think of. Having no luck there, I continued by pulling the plug wires, one by one, to try and isolate it to a cylinder. This had a major effect, i.e. a much rougher idle, on each cylinder except number 4. Pulling the wire on #4 did not effect the rough idle one bit and the engine continued to run with no change.

I pulled the plug on #4 and swapped it with a new one. I also had a spare wire that is known to be good and swapped it. Neither improved the situation at all. I know I have spark, as I felt in a number of times playing around with the wire. From there I pulled the rail on the fuel injection to see if I could isolate it to a dirty/bad injector. I swapped the #4 injector with the #1 injector. Again, no change, and cylinder #1 is still firing fine.

As a side note, I had a similar situation almost exactly a year ago with a rough idle. At that time, I did cap/rotor/wires/plugs and in the process realized the wire on #4 was nearly broken (a few braids on the wire left, but most broken). At the time, I did a similar test by pulling the plug wires one at a time and isolating it to #4. Upon replacing the plug wires, #4 fired properly and the rough idle was resolved.

So, any thoughts why #4 appears to be the culprit again? What do I try next?








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    240 SE rough idle 200 1991

    What do I try next?

    HV wires are easily broken when you pull them to change plugs. Before you do anything else, swap the wires around. Your known good wire may have been OK when removed but damaged during the removal; ask me how I know. ;-)

    The fact that you could feel the spark playing with the wire indicates a spark leak too. You shouldn't get shocked by moving the wires around.

    Remove the distributor cap and closely inspect the cap and rotor for carbon tracking.

    If you are satisfied that spark is OK, the next check is a compression check. You can get a compression gauge with adapters for $40 at AutoZone. You are looking for the same reading within about 15% between all the cylinders. Remember to disable the fuel pumps before cranking for this check.
    --
    Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 53 year old fat man. ;-)







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