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Ryan,
So far it looks like you got very lucky. The whole core support is one piece, this includes the top plate for the latch assembly and the valence below the headlights. The whole core support can be unbolted with the exception of a rivet at the very front of both fenders... drill them out. Make sure you don't break the eyebrow trim that wraps around the front of both fenders, they are roughly $200 a piece. You will need to remove them to drill out the rivets.
The kicker is that you will have to crack the AC system open to remove the core support as the hose running from the evaporator to the receiver/dryer runs through a hole in the core support. You will want to replace the receiver/dryer, vacuum down the system and recharge it.
Once you install the new core support, install the hood latch mechanism but leave the bolts a little loose so the locking plate can move a bit. Once lined up by closing the hood, tighten up the latch bolts. Tweak as needed to line it up with the fenders.
jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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Hi Jorrell, thanks for your response. I already have a Volvo 134a retrofit kit that I was planning on installing before summer takes hold. So the good news is that I already have my new receiver/dryer. I guess my question is about what order I should do things.
This is/was my daily driver and my only car. Should I head to a yard now and see what I can find? Should I break the A/C line, replace the body pieces and then complete the A/C retrofit? I guess I feel out of sorts because over the last four years of volvo ownership I have learned a lot about how the engine works, but now I realize I know nothing about body work. I'm not even exactly sure what you mean by "core support" and "eyebrow trim" but I am heading out to take a look and see if I can understand. Will A/C systems need to be cracked in a yard to get out the parts that I need?
Thanks,
Ryan
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The core support is the front sheetmetal assembly that holds the radiator, condenser, headlights and runs from inner fender to inner fender. It also holds the hood latch assembly and provides the metal valence between the bumper and headlights. The core support as a whole is welded together and must be removed as a unit.
At the bone yard, cut the AC hose to make life easier on yourself... they won't be able to sell it anyway. The eyebrow trim are the curved pieces that hide the gap between the top of the bumper and the fender, to remove, use a flat head screw driver and pry up on the trim.
jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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I went to the yard today and got myself an entire core support plus some other goodies and I also ordered some ecodes from FCP. I guess I am well on my way. I misunderstood your original post and I drilled out all of the welds that connect the top part of the core support to the rest of it. I'm hoping I can just re-weld them together once everything is installed. Also the parts I got came from an '89 wagon and are going on an '89 sedan, so I am hoping they will work.
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Sorry for the misunderstanding, but I'm glad to hear you got all the parts you need. You should be able to reweld the points between the upper core support plate and the rest of it once everything is bolted back in place. The nose of an 89 wagon vs. 89 sedan are identical and 100% interchangeable. My understanding is that the core support is identical from 88 through 93 but earlier ones may be compatible as well... assuming they have the same headlights.
That being said, I haven't figured out how to turn a 245 hatch into a 244 trunk lid... sorry, just another bad joke for today, I'm getting a bit slap happy... waiting for my next employer to say "you are hired"!
jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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posted by
someone claiming to be zjz
on
Tue May 5 07:08 CST 2009 [ RELATED]
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So long as it's daylight and you have the wrenches necessary, you could probably drive to the yard, grab the necessary pieces and get things replaced in a day, only having to cut the old connections on the AC system and could come back to it later. You may have lucked out (cost wise) and even have escaped any damage to the headlights/turn signals. That said, the smart thing to do would be to replace both at the same time, since you'll be in there anyway.
Good luck,
Zach
Anchorage, Alaska
90 245 w/273k mi
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posted by
someone claiming to be zjz
on
Tue May 5 06:10 CST 2009 [ RELATED]
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Agree with others - you lucked out. I had a similar accident that also crunched my hood - not a hard fix at all (fender to fender dimensions at bottom of link above). The two panels you need can be pulled as one piece from a donor car with relative ease. Looks like your hood escaped damage - though you'll want to check the latch and the hinges to see if they got torqued at all when the panels below were pushed back. This is a prime opportunity to upgrade to ecodes if you plan to keep the car...
Good luck,
Zach
Anchorage, Alaska
'90 245 w/273k mi
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posted by
someone claiming to be zjz
on
Tue May 5 07:03 CST 2009 [ RELATED]
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Fender messages courtesy of Sven's Maintainer from link that didn't show up in message above:
"Front, going across between the vertical inner faces of fenders, was 53 inches. I measured where the top of fender curves downward as it goes to meet the trim. The most forward part of the hood space between the fenders.
Rear of hood opening: I measured across the engine bay even with the bases of the hood coil springs. 55-5/8 or 55-3/4 inches. That is across the larger vertical face of the sides of the hood opening. There is a narrow (less than 1/4 inch) notch or shelf that receives the hood; I ignored that and read the larger vertical face below it."
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Looks like you got lucky (I know it does not feel that way).
Do not be surprised if things have moved a little bit from their original placement. Chances are the front fenders are a bit closer to each other at the front than they were. You might get a measurement from an undamaged car (or sight down the hood edges for a consistant gap on each side. If they need to be pushed back it shouldn't need much more than a bottle jack and a length of 4x4 to ease it back to the correct distance. Consider loosening the fender fastners.
Do not close the hood with the grille in place until you have everything adjusted properly as just a little misalignment can make releasing the hood difficult; and with the grille out it is easy to manipulate the release rather than rely on the cable.
I would take things apart and evaluate each piece before seeking the replacements.
Good luck
Randy
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Ouch!
Not tooooo bad, though... fortunately the hood and fenders look OK!... not sure how the headlamps survived!
Smarter people will chime in, but that whole section is a bolt on swap.... maybe a spot weld at the fender. Pull the headlamps off and try to assess their condition behind the reflectors.
I'd just go down to the boneyard and dissect the front end of a donor.
Good luck!
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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