Hello Brickboard community... I have just joined you although unbenknownst to me I have been a long time member..

I recently purchased my first Volvo although I was brought home from my birth place in a 78, 242 GT, Yes with the orange and black stripes and ultra fading silver metallic paint...

Most of my childhood was spent in that car! and I even know the current owner (over 400k so far on the original engine/tranny.)

So now I have chosen to endulge into my own personal volvo endeavours...

A new to me 1966 volvo 122... I love the looks.. but its pretty trashed.. What I need Help with is the ignition key BS (it works with anything.. hmmm) and the stupid weber carb, ugh it leaks everywhere.. Not to mention the missing hardware throughout.. EVERYWHERE from the dash to the gas tank stuff is missing..

Also why did some dumbass JamNut the suspension components as opposed to cotter key'ing them?!?

Also anyone had any Good Experiences having the seatbelts RE'Webbed..?
I ordered Some #%^#^ from IPD today, it wont get shipped till monday but it should get me rolling...

BTW, Im OCD with Quality and reliability. Been a Corp. Jet Mechanic for over 10 yrs. and fixed everything from automated cooperage burners to 26 million dollar sub-sonic jets.

anyhow assuming the weather doesnt turn ultra crappy ill post "PICS"

Jason "Jay"

".....I was brought home from my birth place in a 78, 242 GT...."
Wow, they didn't have those when I was born. I think my first car trip might have been in a
fairly new 1937 Chevrolet, known with slight affection as the Green Goddess.
No clue where it is now.
My first suggestion to you is that it may be more satisfactory to be OC about getting it into operation than
having it perfect. Don't know where you are but you would be well off to find either a pick and pull with lots of 122s or a parts car of similar model.
That would make it much simpler than trying to buy the stuff new (although it is mostly available through GCP and VP.
I had the opportunity to visit both of their establishments in Sweden summer before last as part of a VCOA tour (¡JOIN NOW!) and I can say that it was astonishing to say the least.
Stuff that we would normally give our eyeteeth to lay hands on used but in good condition, they had new by the boxes and barrels full!
You would probably do yourself a favor to get a good pair of SU HS6 carbs with proper manifolds.
The dual downpipe exhaust manifold with the right pipe will add a few hp, and the SU Carbs, if properly tuned, will too.
(Caution - shameless plug:) Jim Taylor here in Bartlesville does a good job of refurbing SU carbs. (918) 333-3444
Many others do also, including Joe Curto in New York, Rhys Kent in BC, Tom Bryant in Maine, etc.
Getting the carbs refurbed will put good tuning into the realm of possibility.
It is impossible to do a reasonable job of tuning on worn SU carbs!
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Jay;

Welcome to the Forum!

...I believe you may never get Volvo entirely out of your blood...instead of expensive therapy, most here have elected to just wrench it away...

There's worldwide vehicle specific experience available to you here, combined with your undoubted knowledge and experience, you should be able to get to a point of having fun shortly...

Regarding IGN key...sounds like someone has removed all the pins which allow the lock cylinder to turn with a unique key, thinking that this will help with the broken key syndrome...actually it may indirectly...because one doesn't have to weaken the key by cutting, so it remains as strong as possible...the actual cause of the high return force (at Start Position only) which is responsible for eventually leading to fatigue and weakening, is the monster return spring in the electrical switch behing lock cylinder. A separate Start pushbutton, which eliminates the need to turn the key into the momentary Start Position is the accepted, permanent cure. More suggested reading: http://sw-em.com/service%20notes.htm#Body

On older cars, castellated nuts/pins were the norm, later Nylocks were used...I suppose if I didn't have either, I'd doublenut too...

Cheers

I was kinda in a Ranting mood last night.. I was hoping this volvo would be in better condition than it actually is.
It was one of those im in a hurry lets load it up on the trailor deals..

Alot of it looks ok but the more I dig the more I realize the biggest enemy of old cars is the previous owners.

Thanks for the Information on the carbs and Ignition switch guys..

Im going to rebuild the dgav in it for now and probably look into installing a start button and maybe a transponder for tripping the ignition.

Had to order all new door locks as well, they dont seem to work either. As a matter of fact im going to walk out and triple check my Vin to make sure this car isnt stolen, lol.

As for the jamnutted steering components, what kills me is they jamnutted them but they still used the castellated nuts!

Also it looks as though the stereo speakers are actually small house speakers in woodboxes mounted to the kick panels.

Im trying not to go OCD but its getting tough.

Haynes publishes a Weber manual that will cover your 32/36 very well. If you have any "tuning" issues after the rebuild I'll be glad to give my 2 cents worth. I currently am back to SU's on my 140 and have a load of 122 original SU's (some may be ok - mostly consider them cores) but have lots of Weber experience. -- Dave

Well it has been a DEAD day, nothing accomplished. About 26f outside and I believe the hood release is dead. Another thing on my list. Ugh, im afraid i will get stupid if the volvo original engine and weber setup give me any trouble.

I have a 283 w/m21 sitting in the shop They both run great. They just came out of a '67 nova im restoring. They arent stock or original (66 chevelle engine and 67 camaro m21) They run great but are being forfeited for a 383/w t45 tranny. The Engine is completely drop in ready, runs great just needs a home.

But I will rebuild the Carb. Do a tune up and see were I stand. I really wish I had found a Wagon though.