Okay, I have looked at a few posts but this would seem to be a dumb place to make a mistake so I am seeking confirming/second opinions.

I am planning on installing IPD front and rear sway control bars on my 245DL and I am not a car mechanic, but I am not afraid of this one either. Seems pretty straight ahead and I have the proper tools.

Here is what I perceive as the danger; the floor jack/ramp/jack-stand part of it. I don't know enough about how high, what gets in the way of the job, how safe, and most importantly, where to put the jack stands. I don't want to damage the car or me (in that order but not far apart!) I have all of the above; jack, ramps and jack-stands, some 4x4 blocks and some 2x4 blocks.

I am guessing that I can't use ramps because I have to get the weight off the wheels before I can attach the bars?? So that leaves floor jack and jack-stands. Can I put the jack stands under the axle or will that prevent attaching the bars? If I put the stands under the jack points, will I be able to get the high enough to work on it?

There is probably a correct way to do this job. Would you all be so kind as to tell me the dope?

Thanks all.

Thanks.

Well, the operation was a complete success. And you know, they really DO make the car handle like a dream. I am glad I did it.

Now for the "I feel stupid" part of the story. My little Mickey Mouse floor jack wouldn't really get the rear off the ground far enough to jet the stands under, so I bit the bullet and went to my local rental place and rented a nice long-handled floor jack. Ramps in the front and this big jack in the back; in like Flynn.

Taking the jack back to the rental place, the handle put a nice 5" rip in the headliner of the way-back. Boy am I upset.

Now I have to start a new thread about how to get behind the cloth and hold it so I can put a nice strip of 3" rip-stop tape on it. I guess I'll look into that one tomorrow (sigh.)

D.

The headliner has a plastic strip that hooks in to a metal rim on the body of the car. I'd start the removal from a rear corner. Pulling the headliner in the right direction is a lot more important than the force of the pull.

I hate jack stands and think ramps are for the suicidal. Nice solid blocking that the car can not fall off is the best for keeping from getting squashed. You might already have the necessary pieces, if not, go to Home Depot and buy a 10' 4X4 (6X6 is better). Have them cut it in half. Take it home and cut it into foot long lengths. You will have all the cribbing that you will need forever. Build it up Lincoln Log style and you're good.

Greg

Greg,

I 100% must disagree with you on this one when it comes to jack stands. Blocks of wood can slide against one another... once motion starts, its all over. Yes, ramps are suicide in my opinion, just like cheap chinese bottle jacks and jack stands!

Below is a pic of what I did with our 92 245 to get the trans in and out, and I can assure you there wasn't a single wiggle or even a shimmy! As safe as could be possible without a true lift!



jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

I'd be afraid of 4x4 blocks myself, and and think 6x6 may be half as good as jack stands in a pinch. But what's the worry about ramps? Clue me in, please.

Thanks,
Steve

My issue with ramps is that they are normally made from sheet metal that has been welded together. Sheet metal actually has elastic tendencies, so any side load, ie. car gets bumped from the side or the car is on ramps on an uneven surface from side to side, the ramps are compromised. Note the total lack of cross bracing on 99% of ramps.

Beyond that, most of my cars (five out of six) are too low to accommodate ramps without body damage on the nose.

jorrell

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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

I might mention that it is possible to do front and rear bars with the car on the ground. But you have to like working in tight spaces. I have taken them off at the salvage yard and installed them at home with the car on the ground.

The only thing I will add to Jorrell's instructions is to have an extra set of hands to hold one side while you connect the bolts on the other side. Dan

On the front, with the E-brake engaged, use a floor jack under the engine cross member in the center to bring both front wheels up in the air at the same time. Then place jack stands under the front factory jack points under the front doors. Let the floor jack down until the car is resting on the jack stands. In this pose, the sway bar swap is easy.

For the rear, chock the front tires on the ground and use the floor jack placed at the center of the rear axle to lift the rear of the car, both rear wheels at the same time. Place jack stands under the factory rear jack points under the rear doors. Once in place, lower the floor jack until the car is resting on the stands.

Note, the front is easy, the rear is a little tougher.

jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

Second that on chocking the front wheels. When the back wheels are off the ground the only thing stopping the car from rolling is your emergency break. Make sure your e-brake is working and use actual "wheel chocks" (not a rock, or a piece of scrap wood, etc...)

Ryan

Actually, when your FRONT wheels are off the ground the only thing stopping the roll is the Ebrake, which in good working order on level ground is sufficient. There is nothing to stop the front wheels from turning when the rears are jacked up, so engage the steering wheel lock and block them.