So I was finishing up servicing the steering knuckle and bought a new dipstick the handle had broken off the old when I changed the oil last time (~900 miles ago always use Mobil 1). Any way I pull the old one and the dipstick is loaded with foamy/milky crap and it looks like a blown head gasket to my semi-experinced eyes.

I pulled the cap off the valve cover and it looks clean so I am a little confused but as far as I can tell I am done driving the car and will be pulling the head. I will check the spark plugs tomorrow morning just to be 100% sure that the car can not be driven. The weird thing is that car did recently start using just a little coolant but I thought it was just the lower radiator hose. The car runs great and I never would have guessed it was a blown head gasket.

Did I just get really "lucky" and catch this early? Is there a bars leak fix that is actually recommended to try? I want another 70,000 miles from the car (200,000 miles) so I think I know that it probably needs to come apart. The timing belt is due in 9,000 miles and I think it needs the flame trap cleaned as well so I ordered the following tonight for the project:


FCP Groton:
1997-1998 Volvo V90 OEM Timing Belt Overhaul Kit
1997-1998 Volvo V90 Cylinder Head Gasket Set
1997-1998 Volvo V90 90 Degree Thermostat (OE Volvo)
1997-1998 Volvo V90 Flame Trap Kit
1997-1998 Volvo V90 Flame Trap Clamp
1997-1998 Volvo V90 Flame Trap Housing
1997-1998 Volvo V90 Hose Clamp (Oil Trap Hose-Inlet)
1997-1998 Volvo V90 Flame Trap-Metal
1997-1998 Volvo V90 Sealant-Valve Cover/Oil Pan

IDP:
14 x 6842347 - Cylinder Head Bolt
1 x T1022 - Angle Torque Gauge
1 x 1161059V - Chemical Gasket
1 x 1397546 - Lower Hose
2 x 30044 - Hose Clamp (32-44mm)

What did I forget to order and what else can I line up. I would like to be reassembling the car next weekend if things go well.

Thanks,

Will

It`s probably only condensation mixing with oil on the stick itself....look and see if the stick is rusty after wiping ....mine used to do this until i cleaned the rust off the stick with wet & dry paper ,it no longer happened after that...If you leave the car unused for periods of time it can do this as well...

Before I took anything apart, I would pressure test your cooling system. Either have it done or buy the tester yourself. If that turns up tight, test the reservoir cap or replace it for something like $6. Both are cheap diagnostic tools and will confirm or deny the existence of a coolant leak.

DEWFPO
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1998 S90 077,400 and 1995 964 154,100

I think I would check the crankcase vent before I went to all that work. With no foam visable on the cap and no white steam from the exhaust it sounds to me like you might just have condensation in you crankcase especially if you drive mostly short haul in a humid environment. Since the oil and cooling systems are totally separate and closed I can't see how the oil pump could force oil into the coolant and vice versa but I only know one thing for sure and that's that I don't know anything for sure!

Hi,


I myself am not totally convinced that your head gasket needs a casket, or that it's in a basket. I've seen foamy milky crap on the dipstick of my white blocks, and they are fine. (Not that I use them, I prefer the 77'.)

The pressure from the oil pump could force oil into the coolant system while the engine is running. This would lead to oil deposits in the coolant reservoir. Do you have any?

The pressure from the combustion chamber could force air into the coolant reservoir. Does the cooling cap discharge? I measured about 30 psi in the cold cooling system when a defective cylinder head compromised the gasket in my B23.

If the answer to both questions is no, then coolant cannot enter the oil. i.e, the gasket must be intact. There is one exception, coolant entering through an open intake valve. This is an unlikely casting failure.

Also, a definitive way to confirm gasket failure is to send samples in for analysis. The procedure is not expensive, compared to the labor and time of R&R the head.


Goatman

My car shows the same thing on the dipstick. I freaked out the first time I saw it which was like 150,000km ago.... But it is nothing. There is no deposit on top of the oil cap, and nothing in the coolant tank.. I would check out a few things like the guys above said but I'm sure you will be fine.. Probably change the thermostat/coolant so that you do not overheat it one day and blow the head gasket..

315,000km now with no problem, I think I first saw it about 2 years ago, and I'v had the car 3.5 years..
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1998 Volvo S90 SE (Black Cherry) 264,000+km

Had to jump in on this one--Drive the car about 40 or 50 miles-and then pull the dipstick--a little foam and stuff is one thing--if all the oil looks like chocolate milk--thats another--bet what your seeing is condensation and hope thats all--don't go pulling the head until you know for sure--Dewfpo is right on the money on doing the preasure test--bet you really don't have the problem you think you have.

Ok so based on the advice above and not being that crazy about tearing down a perfectly good engine I drained the oil and cleaned the dip stick tube. I had a broken dipstick that did not seal perfectly at the o ring for about a month or so and it’s been raining cats and dogs here so it is possible a little water just got in the dipstick and I freaked out.

When I drained the oil I looked at what came out and it looked like clean mobil1 to me. Then without oil in the engine I checked the dipstick and kept getting lots of milky crap on it. Does the oil usually look milky when the head gasket really goes? I am not down any significant amount of

I decided to pour kerosene down the dipstick tube until the dipstick itself checked clean (which took three pretty generous pours of the stuff down the tube) and then pulled the drain plug back out to complete the flush.

I filled up on cheap O'riley oil and a new filter and after a just a few short trips of driving it still looks clean to me. It would be really great if it turns out to be that simple. I'll keep you guys posted.

iv also replaced the seal dipstick to block.. It is sort of a pain to do because the one bolt is in the starter area... Thats the best way to clean the tube out, just take it out, clean it and put back in.. I don't think I would pour anything into the engine such as heavy duty cleaners.. Although in my old Pontiac I have poured 1/2 L of Transmission oil because i heard it was a good cleaner hehe.. I care much more about the Volvo..

I use regular engine oil in mine and change it every 5k or 8-10K if I do all highway.. Im not crazy about mobil 1 in an engine that does not see 2500rpm hardly ever.. In my Honda I put Mobil but that thing sees 9000 rpm on a regular basis...


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1998 Volvo S90 SE (Black Cherry) 264,000+km