Yikes! My engine started sputtering, cutting out, a few days ago. Then, suddenly, was fine, but when I went to start it the next time, it would not start. The fuse for the main fuel pump was crispy, but not completely burnt out, but I changed it out. Still no start so I had the car towed home.

Since I'm pretty new to car repair, where do I go from here? There was sort of a buzzy hum at first when the key was turned on, then nothing. I'm thinking fuel pump, but... Shall I change it out? Is it a hard thing to do? Or is there something else that should be screened? Shall I just take it to the mechanic?

Thanks so very much for any help!!! Marcia

Hi Fellows, I sure appreciate all of your help and descriptive responses. I will be going out and chipping down the possibilities tomorrow.

I'll report back and surely let you know how this goes.

Thank you so much! Marcia

Hi Marcia,

I agree 100% with Paul and Tony - don't jump for the expensive main fuel pump. Too many of these are replaced without need, even by the "pros" who don't work on old Volvos normally.

The fuse that burned your fingers was #7, I bet. Your fuel pump relay is on the driver's side, above that felt above your knees on most 82's. It can be a problem too, or more correctly, its socket, just like that fuse. Poor connection leads to heat and crispy. Eventually it starves the main fuel pump for electricity.

To get more detailed, we'd have to know if your car is the common "k-jet" variety of fuel injection, or the rarer "lh-jet" available in California on the 1982 models. Either way, I would start with a meticulous cleaning of the fuse contacts on that #7 or any other that have shown overheating effects. Use new fuses if you can or clean the ends 'til they shine.

Look under the hood at the intake manifold. That's the most prominent metal on the top of the motor. If it is flat, like the one under the bottle below, you have "k-jet". Tell us what resources you have or need, like manuals, access to tools, help, and we'll take you as far as you want to go in do-it-yourself brick repair.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

The male is a domestic animal which, if treated with firmness and kindness, can be trained to do most things. - Jilly Cooper

To add one small note to Art's post, squeeze the posts of fuse # 7 together slightly to give it a tighter grip on the fuse. Locate the fuel pump relay to see if there is corrosion and heat distortion of the connector. If there is you want to clean these contacts and try to get better contact between the relay and the contacts. You may need to replace the connector. Dan

That buzz you hear ( for about 1 long second) when you turn the Key to ON is the Fuel Pump working. It pressurizes the system. I would say the Pump and Pump Relay are good.

When was the last time you did Rotor,Cap,Wires and plugs?

Was this sputtering on a wet or damp day? Did it clear up after the car warmed up?
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

I would wait on the fuel pump.

Here is my BB learned list of no start tips:

Pull the coil wire off, hold it near the block and have someone turn the key. You have spark and you can check things like the timing belt and a lot of other issues off the list.

What kind of shape is the 25 amp fuse holder under the hood? If you still have the white open holder on the firewall near the battery go get a good sealed fuse, a box of 25 amp fuses that fit the holder, and do the slice and splice. Slice out the old, crimp in the new, also suggest insulated crimps (Blue should do the trick) and heat shrink or good electrical tape over the splices.

Next go to the passengers side, take the felt off the underside of the dash and find your fuel pump relay. That one of the biggest causes of no starts, sudden engine cut off and so on. You can pop off the cover and re-solder the contact solder joints or get a new one. I am on my 3rd relay now on my 86 with just under 250K. Now one of those had water in the car issues, but point is that caused three no starts in my 86. I bet most of the regulars on this board have a spare relay in the back of the car right now (I do).

Clean and shine your contacts for fuse 4 and 6, at least it is 4 and 6 in my 86 in the fuse box. Bad contacts and loose contacts are a common problem. Take an eraser and give the contact surfaces a good shine, and make sure your fuses are in good shape and have good contacts.

Check your vacuum connection to your Fuel Pressure Regulator. When you have the line loose take a sniff (not snort, a sniff) on the hose and make sure you to smell gas. A gas smell points to a defective regulator.

Change your Fuel Filter, that being restricted or clogged can cause all sort of maladies. If you are ordering a filter, get the little jumper hose and new copper washers also. That will save you from having to get parts when you break the old one.

Then you head to jumping the fuel pumps and listening, and do not worry about the humming. I had a weak in tank fuel pump that caused a problem at idle and on right a you take off. Jump fuse 4 to fuse 6 with the key off and just listen to the pumps run. What I heard was a surging sound, and that was the main pump not getting enough fuel from the tank. Banged off the bung nut, installed a new pickup pump and sock, and she ran like a top.

Last tip is that main pump failures are supposed to be rare. Most of the time a no start is the timing belt breaking, or the check list above. Plenty of other causes to be sure but that list sure does catch a lot of the problems.

Regards,

Paul