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erratic temp gauge, high at idle, o.k. at about 2,00+ rpm 200

I have a 1986 240 DL Wagon.

The temperature gauge has started acting wacky.

About 200 miles ago the gauge would climb to the red zone when the engine was at idle, and then go back down to 1/2 at higher rpms.

The last time I started the car, the temperature gauge immediately climbed to the red zone. That just isn't right! There is no way the block could have heated up so much in about five seconds at idle.

There is enough coolant. It is more towards the "max" side of the reservoir.

Thanks for any help on this!








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    erratic temp gauge, high at idle, o.k. at about 2,00+ rpm 200

    My experience with fluctuating needle is a damaged Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, which is two sensors in one. One feeds to your dashboard temp guage, and causes wild swings in range. In a way, it freaks you out right?

    The sensor is hard to get to between cylinder 3 and 4 under the intake manifold. Once replaces, life will be good again.

    Here's the 700/900 FAQ.
    http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm#EngineTemperatureSensors








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      partially true 200

      First off, do as the first two posters indicated, and take care of the temp gauge's dastardly temperature compensator board. Bypass it with jumper as described in the linked references. We've owned four 240's made with that board and I had to bypass all of them.

      Next topic:
      There are two temp sensors, each in its own location. One for the gauge and one for the car's computer. The gauge sensor is under intake runner 2. The ECT sensor (to support the computer) may be under runners 3 + 4 as described by davitus. ECT failure would likely affect the computer and probably your gas mileage but will not turn the gauge into a liar, as it does not run the gauge.

      One of our four cars that I did the bypass on turned out to have a faulty GAUGE sensor. ECT sensor was fine. But gauge sensor failure is far less common than temp comp board failure. I assume the comp boards will fail; it's that bad.

      Bypass that d****d compensator board.

      Then if you still have issues, test the gauge sensor's lead for a short. '86 is smack within the range of years of 'biodegradable' disintegrating wire insulation and there's a chance that wire is grounding out, which would cause the high temp readings. The sensor is a simple device; higher temps cause it to provide lower resistance. Grounding the wire = no resistance and so mimicks high temperature.
      --
      Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.








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    erratic temp gauge, high at idle, o.k. at about 2,00+ rpm 200

    http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1172774/220/240/260/280/replace_compensation_board_jumper.html
    --
    1986 Volvo 245








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    erratic temp gauge, high at idle, o.k. at about 2,00+ rpm 200

    Common problem with a fairly easy fix. Do a search on the BB for "temperature compensation board bypass."

    --
    In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them.







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