I'm unable to remove the ignition key from my '94 945 Turbo.

This problem became evident after my car got stuck trying to negotiate a hill on "black ice." I had to maneuver the car off the road and onto the shoulder, using a combination of neutral and reverse. When the car was fully parked and the brake set, I found I could not remove the ignition key or lock the steering column.

Any idea what went wrong? I read one post in the FAQ referring to a 960 that indicated a wire from the "NEUTRAL SWITCH" was at fault and the switch was "reset" by merely disconnecting and reconnecting this cable, but it did not mention where the lock mechanism was or how to access it.

I am on a holiday road trip with the family and leaving the car unlocked, let alone available for the taking, is not a good option!

Thanks for any help...and Merry Christmas.

--Greg

Don't know if this is common on the 940's, but it is on the V70 & Cross Country. Had the key jam on our 98 XC, & yes, I was not comfortable leaving the car with the key stuck in the ignition.

The problem is the release button on the shift knob gets stuck and does not fully retract in park. It pulls on the cable like it's in gear and the key stops right before you're able to pull it out. I first pulled the knob & trimmed the release button so it operated correctly, then replaced the knob assy with a good used one. The knob pulls straight up & off with a good tug. But don't have your face in the way. My 95 940 has the wiring for OD lock out that will get stretched when removed, where the XC doesn't.

If the release button is stuck you can manage to release it fully by prying on it with your finger nails, or anything with a point.

I had the same problem with my 1994 944T. Cleaning the debris out of the shifter area fixed the problem. It has been fine for about eight months.
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john

I purchased a 1994 944T that you could not remove the ignition key. I solved the problem by removing the instrument cluster and disconnecting a cable that is attached to the ignition switch.

This image may be of some help. It shows the cable detached from the ignition switch. There is a detent type catch on the cable end that you simply push in to then allow it to be released and pulled out. Once it is out the key will go all the way to the locked position and can be removed.



Randy

Thanks Randy

Sounds like the cure might be similar to what I described above.

I have a burning question though...When you disconnected the cable and freed the key, did you then reconnect the cable to restore normal operation? Or, did you keep the cable disconnected indefinitely?

I guess another question is, did you end up having to replace anything??

Thanks a lot!

--Greg

I disconnected it and did not reconnect it.

So now I can turn off the ignition (and remove the key) no matter what position the shifter is in. Not that it makes a difference to me one way or the other. However I was reluctant to try to "fix" the problem because I did not want it to occur again.

Randy

Hi again Randy

Well, thanks to your photo, I was able to locate and remove the mechanical cable from the back of the ignition lock.

I noticed that the cable does not want to reconnect easily; it seems to be a bit out of whack.

So I am driving around with no park / neutral interlocks.

I do wonder HOW this mechanical linkage is related to the park microswitch. I noticed that after my problems with ignition lock / stuck key began, I did not hear the microswitch operating when I applied the brake pedal. The microswitch is not operating now. Many mysteries remain:

1. The microswitch was working before. Is it not operating now because the MECHANICAL cable is disconnected from the ignition lock?

2. Did it cease operating when the ignition lock jammed?

3. Should I try replacing the microswitch, and then reattaching the mechanical cable?

What's weird is that, as I said, the microswitch was working fine until ignition lock "D-Day." I have found an accurate description of the conditions that brought on the ignition lock trouble (during my episode trying to remove the car from the road during icy conditions) in a 2006 post from mapleleafer:

"The most common reason for being unable to turn the ignition key (in most cars) is having the wheels turned when the ignition is cut, the steering lock pin engages and then the steering shaft kicks back when powesteering pressure drops. This forces the lockplate tight against the pin and makes it very difficult to turn the key next time."

How this causes the microswitch to fail, messes up the mechanical cable linkage, and begins head-scratching, I do not know.

Any input from the board sages is welcomed.

Happy New Year

--Greg

I am glad the image was useful to you.

As I mentioned I disconnected it and never looked back. The fewer things on my cars to protect me from myself the better.

Randy

My 94 940 has the same issue. I have copies of the original owners service reciepts and as I recall she brought it to the dealership for the same complaint two times and both times they simply adjusted some cable(dont remember what they called it). On mine when it sticks all I have to do is grab the shifter and give it a wiggle and wala..she lets go.