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Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

My head gasket (B230F) was leaking coolant on the passenger side by the #1 cylinder so I decided to replace the head gasket. After removing the head I see there are some pits in the block surface between the coolant passage and the outside edge of the block. Since this is a narrow area I think I sould do something to try and make sure the coolant doesn't leak out. There is a portion of the area that is fine but some of it is pitted.

Should I put a little RTV on the area before replacing the head gasket or do something else to make sure it doesn't leak? Maybe some grease would fill the small pits?








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    Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

    Say guess what you are posted on the 700 tab too!

    Was it head or block, 700 or 900?

    Your not on the Brink of any thing are YA!








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    Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

    I would clean the surface with brake clean and fill voids with JB Weld, I have used this on motors that have blow a hole in the side of the block and made a patch of JB Weld and worked just fine with no leak,you can get it at any parts store ,it's a 2 part epoxy. Dick








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    Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

    That type of damage is from electrolysis and results from the coolant not being flushed and replaced every two years.

    Most machine shops that provides the service of milling heads can repair the damage. It involves aluminum welding the pits and then milling the head.

    I do not think a homemade repair will provide the service you need from the repair.

    You will find an earlier discussion on this topic at:
    http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1313440/220/240/260/280/cylinder_head_corrosionhow_much.html

    Randy








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      Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

      The coolant had been replaced every two years for most of its life. Early on it may not have before I got it. I had been using volvo antifreeze and then Dexcool the last 7 yrs or so. Do you think the Dexcool is the problem?








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        Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

        All of our Volvos run the "old style" green coolant. I made the mistake of switching two cars to the extended life green coolant and shortly thereafter experienced leaking seams in one of my replacement metal radiators. I was able to get the extended life type out of the second car and back to the old style without damage.

        For my money it is the old green stuff only, but some people report good results with the GO5 formula in their redblock cooling systems.

        Randy








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        Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

        Dexcool has a very poor record. I wouldn't use it if it was free.
        --
        john








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          Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

          As John pointed out, Dexcool is garbage. I wish I had five bucks for everytime I helped the guy at the shop next door to mine do intake manifolds on Chevy products that were all eaten away and full of that garbage. Your title says pits in the head, your actual posts says pits in the block, which one is it? I have never seen pits in the block from electrolysis, pits in the head are pretty much just the way it is in these old motors. Like previous posters have said, the machine shop will just weld them up and machine it down when they surface the head. It costs 75-125 additional to have it done where I am at.

          Mark








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            Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

            The pits are in the block surface where the head gasket rests. Sorry about the confusing title. The head surface is perfect. The head gasket was rusted and the top of the block also.








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              Head surface area has pits how do I fix 900

              Well now, that is definitely a horse of a different color there. You could try JB weld or some other kind of epoxy but I would consider anything along those lines as purely temporary, how temporary remains to be seen. Optimumly you would want to fix it the same way you would fix the head but now you are dealing with a whole friggin engine block. In lieu of the correct tools I guess a guy might try using a straight edge, some feeler guages, and the grinder of choice to very carefully remove the weld bead down the surface of the block.

              Mark







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