hmm ok well i dont have those tools in my chest. i do need to change the strut mounts for certain....i think i may have the shop do it.

Should you not be able to access that file I noted in my previous post, this listing may help.

Planning and preparation:
SUPPLIES:
PB Blaster - apply early a few days and daily to gland nut threads at top of strut tube and to top nut of piston rod.
TOOLS:
Spanner wrenches to loosen gland nut
Order from McMaster-Carr
Adjustable hook spanner wrench $27 (p/n 5471A13)
Fixed pin spanner wrench $16 (p/n 548A16)
Offset wrench 15/16" to loosen and remove top nut (also a 10mm open end)
Order/store from Harbor Freight
comes within a set, $13 for set (p/n 32041)
Coil spring compressor
Rent from Advance Auto
you deposit about $55 dollars and get the whole deposit back with return within 45 days.
Air impact wrench will help loosen top nut, and it will help with spring compressor.
Floor jack, two jack stands, etc.
PARTS:
Sleeve (Volvo p/n 1229659), one for each side
Bump rubber (Volvo p/n 1221647), one for each side.
Strut inserts: This is your call. Once I received my order, I examined "kit" to see what I got for a gland nut (if any), and what the top nut looked like. If gland nut was a two slotter, forget it. If top nut was small in vertical distance, forget it. This said, I planned ahead and ordered from Volvo (source is your call) the following parts.
top locknut (Volvo p/n 963121), qty 2
washer (Volvo p/n 986488), qty 2. They're hardened. Sits under top nut.
flange locknuts (Volvo p/n 985868), qty 6

Finally, I found a way to stabilize strut while I compressed springs and when I removed coil spring when I wanted to easily put on gland nut. This I could do with no extra set of hands. I made cheater bars out of pipes and pipe fittings from Lowe's, slipped over the handles of the spanner wrenches. Thus, I avoided any need for hammering against the gland nut. Remember, you have already applied PB Blaster well before starting. All this I had put in that online file with photosb if you can get to it.

Just finished my '92 245DL and did my '90 760GLT and my '83 245GLT a few weeks before this. While I was at them, I replaced ball joints, tie rod ends, and all bushings and did a sway bar swap on the 240's. Finished up with a professional wheel alignment.

Good Luck, hope this offers you some options to consider.

Mike





--
'83 245 GLT, '90 760 GLT

Should you not be able to access that file I noted in my previous post, this listing may help.

Planning and preparation:
SUPPLIES:
PB Blaster - apply early a few days and daily to gland nut threads at top of strut tube and to top nut of piston rod.
TOOLS:
Spanner wrenches to loosen gland nut
Order from McMaster-Carr
Adjustable hook spanner wrench $27 (p/n 5471A13)
Fixed pin spanner wrench $16 (p/n 548A16)
Offset wrench 15/16" to loosen and remove top nut (also a 10mm open end)
Order/store from Harbor Freight
comes within a set, $13 for set (p/n 32041)
Coil spring compressor
Rent from Advance Auto
you deposit about $55 dollars and get the whole deposit back with return within 45 days.
Air impact wrench will help loosen top nut, and it will help with spring compressor.
Floor jack, two jack stands, etc.
PARTS:
Sleeve (Volvo p/n 1229659), one for each side
Bump rubber (Volvo p/n 1221647), one for each side.
Strut inserts: This is your call. Once I received my order, I examined "kit" to see what I got for a gland nut (if any), and what the top nut looked like. If gland nut was a two slotter, forget it. If top nut was small in vertical distance, forget it. This said, I planned ahead and ordered from Volvo (source is your call) the following parts.
top locknut (Volvo p/n 963121), qty 2
washer (Volvo p/n 986488), qty 2. They're hardened. Sits under top nut.
flange locknuts (Volvo p/n 985868), qty 6

Finally, I found a way to stabilize strut while I compressed springs and when I removed coil spring when I wanted to easily put on gland nut. This I could do with no extra set of hands. I made cheater bars out of pipes and pipe fittings from Lowe's, slipped over the handles of the spanner wrenches. Thus, I avoided any need for hammering against the gland nut. Remember, you have already applied PB Blaster well before starting. All this I had put in that online file with photosb if you can get to it.

Just finished my '92 245DL and did my '90 760GLT and my '83 245GLT a few weeks before this. While I was at them, I replaced ball joints, tie rod ends, and all bushings and did a sway bar swap on the 240's. Finished up with a professional wheel alignment.

Good Luck, hope this offers you some options to consider.

Mike





--
'83 245 GLT, '90 760 GLT

It depends on the condition of the bearings in the mount. If you get a noise from the bearings when you turn the wheel it's a pretty good sign they need to be changed. My '92 lived its first 11 years in snowy + salty New England and the strut bearings were dry and rusty when I replaced them at 160K.
--
In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them.

This morning I just finished doing the same with my '92 245. This not my first 240 and have summarized some my collective learnings. I posted a 1MB file on an old website I used for teaching HS math. The information on the file may help you with your question. The bottom line learning - preparation.

http://www.sitemaker.umich.edu/mdmmath.aghs/files/volvo_240_front_strut.doc

Be patient about the download, the file contains a number of photos. I'd be curious if this helps you with your project.

Mike

--
'83 245 GLT, '90 760 GLT