Hello folks, I'm going to the Richmond area for the holidays and I was wondering if anyone knows of Junk Yards in the area that have 120, 1800, basically and per '80 parts in the yard. All I've come across to date is 1986 and on. It would really make the holiday much better to find much needed parts for my 122!

Cheers to all,

greendread

Sorry, I can't help you with any suggestions, but aside from the 120 and 1800s, be on the lookout for any 140 or a 1975 240.

I'm sure you know what a treasure trove those can be for we 122 drivers.

Cheers man,

Will do keep an eye out! Yes my 68 122 has benefited greatly form a rough but well maintained 140, that donated its B20, which was rebuilt and bored out.

This past week I replaced all my hydraulics in the 122, and it went smoothly and quickly until I was tightening the clutch tube to the new clutch master cylinder and totally sheared it off from the top, and its too short to sleave...
So sad about it. I tried to order a new one from Matthias @ Skandix but I haven't heard a peep back in a week?

It's funny, He was nice enough to ship all these shinny new parts and asked me to pay for them when they came in, but I can't seem to be able to pay for or order anything for a week.

Cheers,

greendread

Matthias may be on vacation or something. He's usually very responsive and talkative. Although they wouldn't be celebrating our thanksgiving over in Germany... Maybe it's some sort of kraut/asparagus festival... :)

There's a Wilwood clutch MC that is a drop-in replacement. I think you can get it from SummitRacing. It works great with one of those snazzy stainless steel clutch hoses that Chris Horn (Agent_Strangelove) sells.

If you still have access to that 140 consider the very fine dual-brake system upgrade...

Thanks for the heads up... I just checked out summit racing looks good, but all I need is the tube that comes off the clutch master. Hope to get the parts soon.

Cheers,
greendread

Tube? you mean the steel hydraulic line or that little double-ended fitting?

Exactly right! All the Volvo, Skandix lit I've seen called it a tube. So I'm here in Richmond and we're fixing the 850's and 740's.While I'm at it let me ask you a 700 question. Anyone else you can recommend?? It's a 90 740...

I'm trying to understand why I'm not getting fuel delivered to the engine on my 1990 740 Turbo. Here is my problem:

I know both the in-tank and main fuel pumps work because when I jumper the fuel pump relay, both pumps run and fuel is delivered to the engine with good pressure. However, when I crank the engine (with the fuel pump relay in place), no fuel is delivered to the engine, and I don't hear the fuel pumps turning on. And yes, I have already replaced the fuel pump relay.

My real question is: Is there something that 'tells' the fuel pump relay to turn on during cranking? Why does jumpering the relay turn on the pumps but cranking the engine does not? Also, does the radio suppression relay give the fuel pump relay a signal to turn on?

Deeply appreciate your inputs!

I still don't know if you are talking about the hard clutch fluid line or the fitting that screws into the cast clutch body. A new line should be easy and any good auto parts or brake shop should be able to help you get what you need.

If you broke the fitting that's something else and you can get a used one or maybe find a replacement fitting in a good selection of brass natural gas/plumbing fittings.

Regarding your 740, I'd say you should post your question in the 700/900 forums... Read the Brickboard 700/900/90 FAQ!!!

I do own a 940 and have had two different 700s. The 1990 turbo is a bosch system and is pretty simple. The 8-vale 1990 is a Rex/Regina system ans those are a little "weird." If your pump relay is good, try the radio suppression relay (if it has one). A failing RSR will cut ground-side power to the pump. You can swap it with the fan relay for testing. I do not know if the bosch cars have them...

But if you get pressure while cranking... I'm not sure. I've had Fuel Pressure Relay Problems, plugged Flame Traps and failing RSRs, but never quite what your describing.

I know from my D-jet 120 that power is supplied to a pump during cranking via a separate circuit that while running, but that's a circa 1971 setup...

Yeah, I broke the hard line above the fitting. The male-male fitting is still good. I got a hold of Matthias, and he's got the whole line for $40 US. I thought of going to the local shops- but I'm sick of the shops in Philly asking me what year make and model rather than what part I actually need. I'll try your suggestion.

I will reread the Brickboard 700/900/90 FAQ!!! We posted to 700/900 forums but nothing yet.

We tried the swap with the fan relay for testing, and nothing happen?

We've got until saturday morning to sort out 2 740's and 1 850 before I head back to Philly
Cheers,

Try carquest for the hardline. They usually have a wide variety of sizes and lengths of hardline tubing back behind the counter. I'd avoid the big discount chains like autozone - they usually know nothing.

To avoid the make/model question (it is usually a cop-out parts question they use to avoid the hassle of dealing with you), take the busted line with you (wherever you go) and ask if they can replace the tubing. Even if they ask make/model they will still be able to match the tube-diameter.

There's nothing special about the tubing except maybe the bottom end fitting. You can of course re-use the fittings and install them on your line.

Pick up a cheap tubing double-flare kit from a HarborFreight or Cummins Industrial Tools it will let you make the proper flare on the new tube.

When you have all this taken care of you should try a tiny bit of anti-seize on the threads of the male fitting as well as on the outside of you new tube. This will keep the female collar from fusing to the new line over time. DO NOT get the stuff on the nipple end! This will interfere with your ability to get a tight seal.

I may jump over the 700 forums for your other problems. I can't suggest too much. If the FAQ doesn't cover your issue the members may have an answer for you, some of them get testy if you have failed to read the FAQ first.