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Okay i need some major help, I'm working on my fathers 83 245DL with a manual transmission, That was missing & dieing....when i popped the hood, i found a melted distributor cap, as in where the coil wire goes in the cap, It is melted where the button sits on the Rotor. The Button is completely gone & it is melted from all the arcing onto the Rotor. No i never found the Button or spring.
So i replaced the cap & button, along with the plugs, cleaned the Throttle body & checked the Throttle position switch. then Put it all together & Now i have a car that is slow to fire up, but when it does start i have a steady idle and it is smooth & no missing when i accelerate (Not in gear)...
Now i jump in and take it for a test drive, I cruse down a 200 yard hill in first.... I go thru first gear when i hit this level road & all is fine with the world... then i drop it into second & i get this terrible hesitation & miss. As the car starts to crawl to a stop & i get off the road. The car comes back down to Idle & is running rough as ever, missing hesitating & the Idle keeps dropping, it sounds like it is running on two cylinders...
So i turn off the car & look to see if something was off & the Coil felt cold, so that wasn't overheating... I check the plug wires & they are tight... So while i grab my cell phone & about to call a wrecker... I tried to start the car again & to my surprise It fired up! So i quickly slammed the hood, jumped in and cruised up that steep hill (about 200 yards straight up & pulled back into my driveway) all in first gear.
is it the module (whats the name) in the distributor that is bad because of the arcing of the old Dizzy cap? how do you test to see if it is? or is it something else?
Sorry for the long rant But i thought i would be as specific as possible. Any & all advise would be greatly appreciated!
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How's the hall sensor in the dizzy?... Bentley may have a test for that. Missing metal bits from the dizzy cap could do something not-so-good if they got further down into the distributor.
Other possibility is that the dizzy and related parts could be a red herring. How's the wiring harness look?
-Ryan
--
Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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i planed on checking the Hall sensor today... But just couldn't get to it. I think tomorrow while the ladies are cooking, I'm going to sneak into the garage & test the Hall out...
I rechecked, blew it out with compressed air & i still don't see anything in the distributor. That stuff must have fallen out when i first took the cap off. because the dust cover under the Rotor looks fine & i just can't see how it could have gotten underneath it.
That being said, My fluke started giving me some strange readings yesterday, so i replaced the battery in it... I did another Ohm test on the wires & the coil... the wires were fine..... but the Bosch Coil read 1.2 Ohm's, after reading the Fax section, it said it should read no more then .6 -.9 Ohms, so i have a new Bosch Coil when i get home today. But i really think something else is the cause, it maybe the Hall
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No i never found the Button or spring.
Howdy,
Odds are the spring is still in that distributor. I don't know that it had anything to do with poor running on your test drive but I would want to find it if I was working on it.
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 52 year old fat man. ;-)
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Does the 83 use a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit? If so, check it, and if it is burned closed, then you may be feeding 12 volts to the coil, and not the reduced voltage that cars that require a ballast resistor need to operate. If it does not use the resistor, then disregard this answer. I did see something like this once before on a Chevy engine where the ignition switch internally shorted, causing the coil to see the starting voltage at all times, rather than switching over to the ballast resistor in the run position. That engine started on 12 volts, but ran on 6 volts. I don't know what system the 83 volvo uses. My 85 is a straight 12 volt system.
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Thanks for the responce!!! but mine doesn't have a ballast resistor... It's been a while since i worked on a 240 this old, I had forgot they had them in the early 80's...
~Matt
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I took the dust cover off under the rotor & looked but i didn't see it anywhere...
Now when i removed the dizzy cap for the very first time, i wasn't looking for a spring or button. I almost went into shock, when i saw what shape the dizzy cap was in. I am just hopeing the spring & Button just fell out when i took the cap off. because the dust cap was in perfect condition...
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I would recommend replacing at least the coil wire, preferably all five wires. Of course, measuring the resistance of the wires would be a good idea to verify that they are bad.
jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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They are new or should say newer wires. I got the blue performance wires from IPD, when i did a spring tuneup this year. Thanks! i will check them in the morning, i did over look them because of age.
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If the coil wire connector point on top of the cap got hot enough to melt the cap, it probably did damage to the coil wire. If the wire insulation gets too hot, the insulation melts and flows into the electrical crimp connection. If so, you might get lucky and be able to remove the crimp, strip the wire back and reattach.
jorrell
--
92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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posted by
someone claiming to be xxxyank
on
Mon Nov 24 10:43 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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I checked out the wires with my fluke & they Ohm-ed out good. I even pulled the coil from the 83 & placed on my 92 & it ran well...
So now I'm really stuck... wires, coil, dizzy cap & rotor are all good.
I guess it's about time for me to break down & get an Ignition analyzer, which i been putting it off for years
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