Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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new struts on 92 240 200 1992

Hi Folks,
I am changing the front strut on my 1992 240. I removed what I believe is the original strut cartridge(at any rate it is a OE insert). My Haynes manual calls for a rubber grommet at the bottom end of the strut tube. No such thing when I disassembled mine. Was this eliminated in later years? Or did somebody forget to insert one? I removed the ball joint to get a better look. The insert fits nicely. I want to make sure this grommet is not needed on my car before I put it back together. BTW the brake line arrangement does not make this an easy job. Got to bleed brakes? yuk








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new struts on 92 240 200 1992

The 93 I just did does not have the metal insert. Compare the length of the old and the new strut, if they are the same you should be fine.
The brake line bolts to the frame, you need to unbolt it to allow the strut assembly to move out of the wheel well. There is no need to disconnect brake lines. Dan








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new struts on 92 240 200 1992

There were originally no spacers in my 91 245 (OEM inserts). I put KYB ones into it, and they went in without spacers either.








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new struts on 92 240 200 1992

Some strut cartridges require a metal spacer ring the bottom of the strut tube. This keeps the strut from bottoming out on the ball joint nut. I have never seen a rubber grommet used. My cars ('88, '90, and '92) all use this metal spacer ring. Some inserts (KYB?) may not required it.
--
'92 240 wagon, 285k, '90 240 sedan 229k








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new struts on 92 240 200 1992

I'm on my second round of strut insert replacements. First was the '83 and now the '92, all recently. When I purchased inserts from IPD for the '83, I ordered the (aftermarket) "kit" and found that it came with metal spacers. I didn't need to use them. When I ordered (Volvo) inserts from TascaVolvo for the '92, no spacers came with them. I don't think I'll need to add or remove anything at the bottom of the strut tube. This is work in progress this weekend.

Yes, the brake line is held in place with a 12mm bolt. Remove it. Prepare to support the strut assembly once you have tilted it out from the wheel well. I'm using strong cable ties connected in series looped around a coil and up through the tower hole looped around a thick wood dowel. This makes it easy for me to adjust strut tilt and put in place spring compressors, and should limit the stress on the brake line and ABS sensor wire.

IMHO, Bently does a better job of describing the strut insert procedure. I have both a Haynes and a Bently and but together they do quite well.

Mike
--
'83 245 GLT, '90 760 GLT







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