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I used to have an '86 240, and now I have an '89 (built in 12/88 though), with the second style of flame trap system.
I'd like to know who thought taking the flame trap from being buried under the manifold, and instead placing it upon some flimsy little s-shaped tube and ramming it up between the 3-4 manifold runners and under the freakin fuel rail was going to make it that much easier to replace. It's completely surrounded by intake manifold and fuel rail! Ridiculous! I've broken 2 of the plastic nipples so far trying to get the damn hoses apart on this thing. Ugh.
Today I was replacing the entire flame trap system, from the oilbox gasket to the last hose that runs to the intake, and everything in between, and again I broke one of those flimsy plastic nipples (stupid Scan-Tech for making cheap plastic and stupid me and my big yeti-hands)
So, my plan is to shitcan that stupid s-hose (looks like 5/8 ID to me) and just replace it with a length of straight hose that I can run up to some point either ABOVE the fuel rail or ALONGSIDE the intake manifold (or just to some place I find where the hose isn't bent and the flame trap isn't a PITA to reach)...
Good idea/bad idea? I notice that IPD sells a kit for the pre-'88 cars that looks like it would do exactly what I need...did they just decide that the '88-93 location was good enough? It's not, imo.
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It's not elegant in the least, but it works brilliantly.
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Having lost quite a few bits of flesh changing the pre-88 flame traps, I found that the same job on the 88 was still a PITA, but with no loss of flesh.
Back when I actually did the check/change of the FT on my 1988, I found that putting a drop or two of ATF (handy from the p/s reservoir) on the "S" hose end made it easier to slip onto the separator box. Should I do the service again, I rather like the dowel idea.
After switching the car to Mobil-1 synthetic oil, I continued checking it several times after and finding it whistle-clean every time, I stopped bothering with it.
Just my 25-cent's worth.
REgards,
Bob
:>)
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Having lost quite a few bits of flesh changing the pre-88 flame traps, I found that the same job on the 88 was still a PITA, but with no loss of flesh.
Back when I actually did the check/change of the FT on my 1988, I found that putting a drop or two of ATF (handy from the p/s reservoir) on the "S" hose end made it easier to slip onto the separator box. Should I do the service again, I rather like the dowel idea.
After switching the car to Mobil-1 synthetic oil, I continued checking it several times after and finding it whistle-clean every time, I stopped bothering with it.
Just my 25-cent's worth.
REgards,
Bob
:>)
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For an easy way to replace the S hose with a straight piece of hose, once you have the S hose off, and the straight piece of hose ready to install, insert a length of 3/8" dowell through the hose, and insert the end of the dowell into the seperator box outlet. Slide the hose down the dowell, and push it into position, and withdraw the dowell. You're done.
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So true. Pinned in by the Fuel rail is no easier.
I keep a spare Flame trap and Holder handy. I pull off the clogged and replace with the Spare. If it comes off without breaking, I clean the trap and it's ready for the next change.
5/8th is what I was thinking too. I keep saying I'm going to modify mine a bit to get it away from the mess it's buried in.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Ah, that looks superb! (Your re-route and engine bay in general).
consider those pics saved! ;) And thanks for the reply/help :D
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Thanks for compliments. It was easy to do, although you will have to sacrifice your hands one last time. If your s-hose was bent you should notice some improvement.
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You got that right!!! Here's what I do: First, I take the old hose that goes from the intake snorkel to the trap and cut out the long straight section. I use this to go from the oil separator all the way up and through the intake to well above the manifold. Depending on year, I leave a little of the bend on the end to "direct" the trap in the right direction by angling off the separator a little. This leaves the trap completely above all the plumbing. Watch out! On several occasions I have found the hose completely blocked by garbage. Clean it out well. Then use the new, later style hose from the trap to the snorkel. Finally, I just use 3/16" injection line from the vacuum nipple to the trap nipple.
DS
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I grabbed a 'top' hose from a Junkie to do just that. Now I know it works...cool
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm
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Sounds good to me. On my '86 I put in the IPD conversion. The long straight hose brings it up to just above the intake manifold. Checking/changing the flame trap is now a 5-min. job instead of a 30-min. job.
--
1986 Volvo 245
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i totally agree, i just replaced the "easy" @#$% flame trap on my 89 245.what was sven smoking?lutefisk? what a joke! i am all for sh*tcan/hamfisted reroute job on that sucker.let me know when you have redone that beast> good luck
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