Does anyone have a source for replacement ECU's? I have a 1990 240DL that has a fuel delivery problem that I have tracked down to a bad ECU. The model # is 0 280 000 572. Is there a cross-referenced part #? I can't seem to locate one except from the Volvo dealer and they want $942.

I've bought several on ebay for under $10.00 ea and have never gotten a bad one.

Regards,
--
Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles, 88 780 246K miles

hello
hard to believe you have bought several white label 572s for under ten bucks.
lucky duck

hello
i have one listed in the brickboard classifieds.
its also on ebay right how with 1 day left.
the brickboard price is 120.00$ plus 10.00$ for shipping priority mail w/tracking# plus i guarentee its working properly and its a white label.
my ebay listing of the 0 280 000 572 is
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190260266453
my e-mail peopleguy999@yahoo.com
good luck
Mike

Thanks for everyone's response! I may end up taking your's Hardnocks, depending on the answer to my next question. I ended up running down to pull-a-part today on the off chance there may be one in a couple of '90 models they had in the yard. They didn't have mine of course, but there were a couple of xxx951's. I picked one up just to see what would happen. The car started and ran well other than a low idle. A small amount of twist on the thumb screw on the throttle cable corrected that. Now what? What, if any, are the side affects of using a computer that is not the exact model of the one I pulled? By the way, the car died after a short trip and I was getting a 1-4-4 code on the diagnostics. I tracked the problem through some of the extremely knowledgeable posts on your fine website!

hello
(the car died after a short trip and I was getting a 1-4-4 code on the diagnostics. I tracked the problem through some of the extremely knowledgeable posts on your fine website!)
interesting what problem did you find?
this is somewhat suprising.
good luck
mike

Hey Mike,

The car is still running fine, I may be interested in your ECU if you still have it just to be safe. I am kind of tight on funds right now but if you have it in a couple of weeks I would like to get it from you. I was wanting to know if I am going to kill the car by using the computer I got at the junkyard. What do people do in my situation if they can't come up with the rare computer? Can you convert the fuel injection over easily to match the computer or what?

Hi Browndog.
i can not answer your question, there are a few people here that have much knowledge on the workings of the fuel ecu inners.
somewhat suprising the car runs fine.
let us know what your gas mileage is with the 951 computer you put in there.
the LH 3.1 with the 572 is reported to get better mileage than the LH 2.4 system.
good luck
Mike

Funny, about the time you sent this message the car crapped out. I guess that's what happens when you use the wrong computer. The up side of it is that I found the problem with a $35 computer. Now all I have to do is get the right one.

Hello
i still have the 572 available for sale.
you can give me a call if your interested.
561-358-3419 6:30 AM to 9:00 pm.
thanks
Mike

I could use that spare 951.

Not really a great idea. The 951 is for LH2.4 and the 572 is for LH3.1. There are some main differences between the 2. 3.1 uses a throttle sensor not a switch. the AMM is also different. The purple label 572 is problem prone like the pink label 561 and yellow label 556. Get a whitle label 572.

The car quit after a short trip. Got it started and limped back a mile to work. Ran super rough then would not start back. Got it to start up a couple of times after it sat for a while. No fuel pump when ignition turned on. Fuel pump ran with a jumper wire at the fuel panel. Replaced relay, no change. Got a 1-4-4 code that pointed to no ground signal from the ECU.

There is one in the classifieds for sale by a very reputable BB member Hardknocks. Dan

The 572 is the rarest and there is nothing else that will work in place of one. They were only on '90-'93 5 speeds, but not all 5-speeds, only some. No one seems to know why.

Either ebay or a junkyard parts finder is the way to go. Try to get a white label one (rather than red), they are later builds, and (hopefully) more reliable.

I'm not sure who the poster was or what would be a good search to find it, but someone figured out a way to wire a K-Jet relay into the LH fuel pump relay circuit to mimic the grounding effect the ECU is supposed to produce. It's a safer fix than a jumper wire while you look around for a new 572 at a price you can stomach.

Best,

Afton
'68 122, '87 '88 & '92 240's, all stick shift station wagons

I don't have much to help, but I did put together an ECU cross reference table a few years back when the pink label -561 ECU finally up and died on my '90. I don't have an acceptable substitute on the table for the -572 model.

Volvo LH ECU Cross Reference Table

Good luck,
Zach

hello zach
the 0 280 000 954 is found in late 94 and 95 940 turbo.
the 0 280 000 967 is found in 93 and early 94 940 turbo.
the 0 280 000 937 is found in 92 and early 93 940 turbo.
the 0 280 000 928 is white label for 16 valve.
the 0 280 000 946 is in fact 94-95 940 NA.
i did not see them on your list.
i have removed and sold many.
good luck
Mike

Wow, what a great reference. Thanks! My old one was never very complete.
DS

I may have a replacement in my garage at home, I will take a look and get back to you! I will sell it for around 200.00

You didn't happen to have an extra did you?

Shane

The xxx951 and xxx561 are the only ECU's I have seen in '90 240's non turbo.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

I have a -556 ECU in my 1990 240DL, which may be peculiar to CA. I discovered this last weekend while troubleshooting a sudden 'no start' problem. Fault code is 1-1-1. Trying to make sure a sensor input is not at fault before condemning ECU. My mechanic has suggested replacing the EPROM (Volvo P/N 271839).

CODE 1-1-1 means " NO CODES STORED" you have no codes.

No Start. did you check the fuel pump relay? The 25 amp fuse by on the inside drivers fender and the Crank Positioning Sensor. These are typical No start, no spark suspects.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

25 amp fuse OK. Got spark, dry plugs after cranking. Engine starts up after grounding blue green wire. What sensor inputs are required to send grounding signal to fuel pump relay?

"What sensor inputs are required to send grounding signal to fuel pump relay?"

The FI ECU must get timing pulses from the Ignition CU.**

The path is a Brown wire from EZK ICU 17 to FI ECU 1.

If this signal is failing, it will be the first time reported here (on a 240) in over 5 years of nearly daily scanning. It was noted once on a 740 (chafed wire insulation). Otherwise your problem sounds like the known 561 ECU (Pink label?) internal failure to ground the Blue-Green wire.

** Also see This Post


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Thanks for the tip. Do I need a scope to verify the presence of the timing pulses, or can I use a multimeter?

"Do I need a scope to verify the presence of the timing pulses, or can I use a multimeter?"

I suppose a scope would be best, but as I recall the one reported incident on the 740, the bad wire (grounded, I think) was found by a continuity or ground check using a multimeter.

But that one known failure was on a 740, where the EZK ICU was on the left side of the car, with a long wire route to the FI ECU on the right side. Meaning more chances for mechanical chafing than on a 240. My bet is on the known ECU problem, as I mentioned with the more common 561. So I hope Mike still has your type of ECU that he offered.

For some scope pics and comparison of 240 vs 740 voltages, you can browse this EXTREMELY LONG THREAD .
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Bruce, your bet was right on the money! I used a scope to verify presence of timing pulses at 556 FI ECU terminal 1 (see linked image). For future reference (when I can't easily borrow a scope) I used a multimeter to get the following readings: 5.8 AC volts, 7.7 DC volts, which make sense based on the peak-to-peak and average values of the square wave observed on the scope. After finally condemning the 556, I placed an order for a 946 (Thanks Yama!).

Thanks for your help!

Hal

After finally condemning the 556, I placed an order for a 946 (Thanks Yama!)

While waiting for the 946, you can just run a manual switched ground the Blue-Green wire. However, that nullifies the safety aspect of no Ignition = no Fuel.

A safer work-around is to ground the B-G wire thru a K-Jet Fuel relay, which "gates" the coil with pulses from the Coil negative side.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I replaced the 556 today with a 946 (courtesy Yama) and she started right up (without jumpering the blue/green fuel pump relay connector wire to ground for a change). I never imagined I was vulnerable to such a catastrophic failure with my 240. Fortunately, she was parked in front of my house when the failure occurred. Thanks again to everyone who contributes to the awesome knowledge base on the brickboard. Does anybody want to buy a blown-out 556?

I was just giving him other things to look at before jumping into an ECU. He's got a xxx572 ( i think he wrote).
I thought 561 and 951 was for '89-90 cars? Is this some California special he has?
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

hello
if needed i have a white label 556 i could sell.
good luck
Mike

Look on ebay for a white labeled 556, 933 or 946 all work fine with CA EGR equipted cars. Cheaper that changing eprom. Dan

Hi Dan,

Just another one of those "public service messages"...

The eprom has nothing to do with the lack of ground on the fuel relay. I'd hate to see someone going through the pain of obtaining one, expecting that result.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Ø The peacemaking meeting scheduled for today has been cancelled due to a conflict.

Art
Thanks for pointing that out, I had no idea? I was trying to point him in the less expensive direction of a good used ECU rather than pay his Mech or dealer big bucks to replace the eprom.
Dan

Definitely a good idea. What I recall about the eprom replacement was it made a slight adjustment in idling, preventing stalls or something to that effect.

It is just as you suspect though, the eprom is the only socketed thing in the ECU - the only thing that can be replaced without soldering - so its bound to be offered as an alternative to a replacement of the whole module, without regard to my nitpicky specifics of the symptoms. Human nature, I suppose.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

If I have any beliefs about immortality, it is that certain dogs I have known will go to heaven, and very, very few persons. -James Thurber

The 572 is LH3.1 vs. LH 2.4 that you cite.

Apparently the 572 is very rare. There are a couple on ebay for $150-175. Much more than 951 or 561, but not too bad if seller reputable